How to avoid falling into cracks climbing. Mountainous landforms and other climbing terminology

What do we know about glacial cracks? Only what glacial(ice)crack- this is a gap in the glacier, formed as a result of its movement. Cracks most often have vertical walls. The depth and length of cracks depends on the physical parameters of the glacier itself. There are cracks up to 70 m deep and tens of meters long. Cracks are: closed And open type. Open fissures are clearly visible on the surface of the glacier and therefore pose less of a hazard to movement on the glacier. Theory is good, but without a visual image, a theory remains just a text.

Depending on the time of year, weather and other factors, the cracks in the glacier can be covered with snow. In this case, the cracks are not visible, and when moving along the glacier, there is a danger of falling into the crack along with the snow bridge covering the crack. To ensure safety when moving on a glacier, especially a closed one, it is necessary to move in bundles.

There is a special type of crack - bergschrund, characteristic of kars (circus, or a natural bowl-shaped depression in the pre-summit part of the slopes), which feed valley glaciers from the firn basin. Bergschrund is a large fissure that occurs when a glacier exits a firn basin.

Details about the types of glacial cracks and their structure can be found in the article.

And now let's move on to a direct view of illustrative examples of cracks of various types and sizes:

Glacial crack on a "dirty" glacier

Dangerous ice cracks on a "closed" glacier

Rankluft - a crack, a ravine between a glacier and rocks. Usually rankluft is formed on the lateral borders of the contact of the glacier with the rocks. Reaches from 1m wide and up to 8 meters deep

Fracture formation zones can be predicted by knowing the nature of the glacier and the surface on which it is located. fault zones usually formed in places where the flow of ice changes direction - on bends, troughs and bends. Ice and cracks are often covered with a layer of snow. There is a danger of falling into a crack. On closed glaciers they move in bundles, with careful insurance, constantly probing the path in front of them.

The first bunch during the reconnaissance of the route route should consist of three people. Falling into the crack of one should not lead to pulling the other two into it. The rope must be fully extended (do not leave rings, do not allow slack in the rope). The movement of participants within the bunch and between the bunches - track to track.

When the group moves from ice to rocks may encounter coastal fissure (rantkluft), running along the body of the glacier and formed due to the temperature difference - the stones heat up more than the ice, and the latter melts near the rocks. Such cracks (Fig. 1) have a relatively shallow depth. For their passage, you can almost always find a site where they are covered with fragments of rocks or ice.

When the steepness of the glacier bed changes, transverse cracks appear in its body.

With a significant increase in the steepness of the inflection, due to the fragility of the upper layers and the higher (compared to the lower layers) speed of their movement, a significant cracking of the glacier surface occurs, the fall of the separated ice masses. Such zones of intensive ice destruction called icefalls.

Where the glacier, following the shape of the valley, makes turns, in its body are formed radial cracks, fan-shaped diverging and expanding to the outside of the bend. Here way groups must pass off the coast along the slope closest to the center of the turn.

When the glacier exits the gorge to a wider section of the valley, longitudinal cracks. In the case of a closed glacier these are the most dangerous cracks. Here, all the tourists of one bunch can, unaware of the danger, walk along the crack in the immediate vicinity of it, and a fall into the crack of one of the tourists will inevitably cause a breakdown for the rest. In such cases, it is advisable to move either along the convex forms of the glacier or in a serpentine with a thread angle of 45 degrees relative to the longitudinal axis of the glacier.

When driving along the convex landforms of the glacier, tourists may encounter mesh (cross) cracks arising from the creeping of ice on the protruding part of the solid rock at the bottom of the valley. As a result, the ice swells, longitudinal and transverse cracks are formed, intersecting with each other (Fig. 2). These cracks are best avoided. If, when bypassing such a zone, there is a danger of meeting with the longitudinal cracks existing in it, then it is best to bypass the latter along the lower boundary of the convex shape. Here tourists can only wait for transverse cracks.

On the edges of the cracks, the formation of snow cornices is possible.. Therefore, if it is necessary to move near large open cracks, it is necessary to first examine (with careful insurance) the nature of the crack and the eaves.

In the upper reaches of the glaciers, parallel to the slopes of the cirque, arcuate piedmont fissures (bergschrund), which have a large width and depth in their central part (Fig. 3). Closer to the base of the arch, in its lower part, the width of the crack decreases, disappearing. If the bergschrund is a series of arches, then most often their bases do not connect, but are located one above the other, forming possible passages. In summer, you can also look for a passage through the bergschrund in the concave part of the slope, which in spring is an avalanche chute. Descending avalanches form strong bridges here. Of course, this path should be chosen only when avalanches have already descended (in no case after a snowfall). Approach to the snow bridge should be made from the safe zone one at a time, with an observer posted. Those who pass the dangerous area immediately leave the danger zone. To overcome such bridges and all danger zone follows in the morning hours with careful insurance.

Before crack transition across the snow bridge you need to look at it carefully first. In the case of a group moving along the bridge, tourists overcome it in a plastun way, with insurance, but without backpacks. At the same time, they should try to distribute the weight of the body as much as possible on a large surface. Even on not entirely reliable bridges, in this way you can transport the entire group. Backpacks are dragged separately.

Cracks in closed glaciers- serious danger. Falling into them in the absence of reliable and correct insurance leads, as a rule, to injury. If the fallen person is not injured, but is unable to move (jamming, unreliability of the support on which the fallen person managed to linger, etc.), the lack of a rope or the inability of other participants in the trip to organize the rise of the tourist from the crack in a timely manner leads to his rapid freezing.

We have already discussed how great it is to read the description (a post about route classifications) before going on a route. But this, it turns out, is not enough.

These harmful climbers use such words in their descriptions that one cannot understand without a dictionary and a bottle of beer ... Well, okay, they were joking and it will be. But seriously, I recommend everyone who is interested in mountains to get acquainted with these definitions. Perhaps you will find something interesting for yourself.

Vertex – highest point mountains or massif. Usually the purpose of climbing is to reach the summit (and descend from it). Depending on the form, they have different names:

Peak- pointed top;

Three peaks of the Mongolian People's Republic (Mongolian People's Republic), 3870 m

Dome- top with round shapes;

Elbrus (5642 m) - the top-"dome"

table mountain- top with a horizontal or slightly inclined upper part.

Tirke (1283 m) - table mountain

Route- the path to the summit and descent. I want to note that the descent in this case is an equally important component.

Tour- an artificial heap of stones to mark the route (can be stacked at the top, pass, fork, indicate the place of descent, etc.)

Tour on the pass of the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions. Very long-awaited (pass height 3693m)

The descriptions often indicate control tours, in which you also need to change the note (as well as at the top). This additionally certifies the passage of the declared route.

Bivouac– overnight stay on the route or during the conquest of the summit. On obviously long routes, the descriptions may indicate convenient places for bivouacs.

Ridge- part mountain range that connects multiple vertices.

Pass- the lowest point in the ridge.

Elbrus. Jailyk Peak (4533 m) proudly shines in the sun

couloir- a recess in the rock (internal corner), which arose under the influence of flowing and falling water. They can have dimensions reaching several tens of meters in width and, depending on the time of year, can be filled with snow, firn and ice. The bottom, usually cut by a trough, is the most dangerous place in the couloir.

Open book- an acute inner angle that allows you to make a rise with an emphasis on the legs and arms in the rocky surface.

Trough- a shallow wide internal angle (the concept of "internal angle" can be found in a geometry textbook, presumably for the sixth grade).

Valley- a wide depression between two ridges. Usually a very populated area.

Baksan valley

Gorge- a deep narrow valley with steeply rising, often rocky slopes.

Gorge- a particularly narrow part of the gorge with almost steep slopes.

dell- a depression steeply descending in one direction between two lateral ridges (ribs).

Descent down the gorge

Crest- a face formed by two adjacent slopes, facing the top.

Trek along the ridge to the top of Jantugan (3991 m)

snow cornice- snow drift overhanging one of the slopes of the ridge under the influence of winds. It requires a very careful attitude towards itself - the structure is fragile, if possible, it should be bypassed on the opposite slope, below the level of the ridge.

Khitsan- a rocky island, separated from the ridge as a result of erosion.

Gorge Adyr-Su. View of the Mestian hut

Nunatak- a rocky peak, ridge or hill completely surrounded by ice, protruding above the surface of an ice sheet or mountain glacier.

Saddle(in everyday life "saddle") - a depression between two peaks, from which hollows descend in both directions transverse to the ridge.

View from Babugan-yayla

Slope- the surface of the mountain between adjacent ridges (as an option - the side surface of the ridge). By the nature of the soil or cover, the slopes are grassy, ​​rocky (scree), rocky, ice and snowy.

Scree("sypukha") - a heap of stones or fragments of rocks lying on the surface of the slope. Depending on the size of the stones, screes are large and small.

Training sessions on a grassy slope

Descent from the glacier along the "sypukh"

Wall– a slope or part of a slope with a steepness of more than 60°.

It is worth noting that wall climbs are usually categorized higher than ridge climbs - this can help in finding descriptions of the desired level of difficulty for a particular summit.

overhang- section of the wall with a negative angle of inclination

Cornice- overhanging at an angle of 90 ° to the slope.

Ceiling- Extensive horizontal overhang of rock.

When serious "overhangs", "cornices" or "ceilings" appear in the description, it will not be superfluous to have a ladder and hooks with a hammer (the AID category may not be listed) - if you are not completely sure that you will free climb.

Northeastern Mongolian People's Republic close up

Terrace- a horizontal section of the slope, forming a long step.

In everyday life, small "terraces" are often called " shelves". Usually it is convenient to equip safety stations on them.

Plate- a smooth and flat section of rock with a steepness of up to 60 °.

Buttress- an external corner adjacent to a wall or slope.

Edge- buttress adjacent to the ridge.

Gendarme- elevation on the ridge. When studying the description, it is worth paying attention to which side this or that “gendarme” is doing.

The famous gendarme "Devil's finger" on Mount Sokol in Crimea

Crack- a gap in the rock, having such a width that you can put your fingers in it or drive a hook.

Cleft- the gap in the rock is so wide that an arm or a leg can fit in it.

Cleft on the rocks of Dovbush

Fireplace- a vertical gap in the rock, so large that a person can fit in it.

The technique of overcoming "fireplaces" differs from the usual climbing on the stand or natural terrain (there are no holds and you need to go into the thrust), so it must be practiced separately.

An oversized cleft is too narrow for the body to fit in and too wide for an arm or foot to jam. Usually difficult to climb.

Chimney- a rock formation resembling a pipe. On the Forossko-Mellaskaya wall in the Crimea there is a route of the same name 2B k.s. on the "Tower" array. The “chimney” section is not particularly technically difficult, but leaves an unforgettable impression.

"Chimney" on the route of the same name

Lamb foreheads- rocky outcrops on a scree or snow-ice slope. They are a convex section of rock, smoothed by streams of water, stones or a glacier.

These outcrops are usually avoided - smooth stones are not conducive to free climbing. Especially in mountain boots.

Typical Caucasian landscape

Glacier- Masses of ice sliding in the form of ice rivers from the firn fields down into the valleys.

Kashkatash glacier in the Adyl-Su gorge

Glacier tongue- its lower end.

Moraine- accumulation of rock fragments (at the bottom, along the edges, in the middle or end of the glacier), formed as a result of the destruction of neighboring slopes or its bed by the glacier. Accordingly, lateral, median and terminal moraines are distinguished.

View from the parking lot "Green Hotel"

Icefall(not to be confused with an ice collapse) - a disorderly heap of ice blocks, as well as a system of cracks and faults in places where the glacier bed bends.

Serac– separately protruding ice block of the icefall; represents a potential hazard as it may break off.

Icefall at the top of the Kashkatash glacier

Rankluft- a piedmont crack, formed at the junction of the glacier to the rocky slope (the reason is the thawing of ice from the rocks heated by the sun).

Bergschrund- a transverse crack in the tongue of the glacier, formed due to the movement of the ice mass down the slope.

The bundle overcomes the bergschrund

The main difference between these two words of German origin is that rankluft means a crack between ice and rocks, and bergschrund (in everyday life - “ berg”) - in the glacier itself. In addition, there may be a bunch of other cracks on the glacier, which are not specifically named in any way.

Of course, the list is far from complete, descriptions can be expanded and deepened. Therefore, I recommend going to the mountains for details - everything is much more interesting there!

When compiling the dictionary, personal mountain experience, notes by Alexander Guzhviy, Garth Hatting's dictionary ("Mountaineering. Climbing technique." - Moscow, 2006) and the Internet (special thanks to the tourist club "ZHEST" for a good selection) were used. Photos: Olga and Denis Volokhovsky, Vitaly Nesterchuk, Irina Churachenko, Yaroslav Ivanov and others.

To be continued…

Technique of movement in the mountains, on separate sections of the path depends on the nature and characteristics mountainous terrain.

Wooded and grassy slopes are overcome along shepherd and animal paths, usually going along warm southern and western slopes, places with sparse vegetation and a thick layer of soil. On trails or flat ground, move at a steady pace, slowed down at the beginning and end of each transition. The feet are almost parallel, the foot is placed on the heel with a "roll" on the toe to the beginning of the next step. The center of gravity of the body with a backpack should move vertically as little as possible - small hills and pits should be bypassed, stones and tree trunks should be stepped over. Alpenstock or ice ax is carried in the hand in the stowed position; in areas where loss of balance is possible - in two hands in the position of self-insurance or as an additional support.

When driving on grassy slopes, protruding, firmly lying stones, bumps, and other uneven terrain should be used for support; on steep slopes, areas of thick grass and small shrubs should be avoided; rockfalls should be avoided over located rocky areas. For steep slopes, shoes with corrugated soles “vibram” are needed, in case of slippery, for example, wet or heavily snowy surfaces, as a rule, “cats” and rope insurance are used. To gain height, tourists move either in steep short zigzags, or make long gentle traverses bypassing rocky areas. When lifting “on the forehead”, the legs are placed with the entire sole, the feet (depending on the steepness) - parallel, half-herringbone or herringbone; when lifting obliquely or serpentine - on the entire foot with a half-herringbone (upper leg - horizontally, loading the outer welt of the shoe more, the lower one - slightly turning the toe down the slope, with a greater load on the inner welt). When descending straight down a not very steep slope, the feet are placed parallel to the entire sole or with a predominant load on the heel, move with their backs to the slope with quick, short springy steps, slightly bending the knees (but not running). They go down a steep slope sideways, obliquely or serpentine, legs are placed in a half-herringbone, as in the ascent. An ice ax or an alpenstock on steep slopes during ascent and descent is held with both hands in the position of readiness for self-holding, in case of a breakdown, if necessary, they are used as a second point of support. IN dangerous places organize rope belay through tree trunks, rocky ledges, as well as over the shoulder or lower back.

Scree slopes are passed in a group with minimal intervals between participants. When moving along them, one must remember that steep scree sections are especially dangerous with rockfalls. On a small scree they rise “head-on” or in a serpentine, the feet are placed parallel, compacting the step with gradual pressure until the scree stops sliding. You should lean on the entire foot, keep the body upright (as far as the backpack allows). An ice ax (alpenstock) is used if necessary, leaning on it from the front side. They descend in small steps, placing the feet parallel with an emphasis on the heel, if possible, moving down with a mass of small stones and not allowing the legs to tie deeper than the top of the boot; ice ax in the position of readiness for self-detention. On cemented or frozen scree they move in the same way as on grassy slopes.

It is recommended to move obliquely or in a steep serpentine along the middle scree, and at the turning points the guide must collect the entire group so that tourists, for safety reasons, are not on top of each other. Especially dangerous are unstable steep, so-called live screes. Sudden movements should be avoided, the legs should be placed on the entire foot carefully, gently, choosing for support the parts of the stones facing the slope. The ice ax is held in the hand, not leaning on the slope.

On a large scree, they easily move in any direction. The movement is carried out by stepping from one stone to another, changing the pace in order to maximize the use of the inertia of the body with a backpack and avoiding large jumps. When descending and ascending, you need to put your feet on the edges of the stones, closer to the slope. Stones and slabs with a significant slope should not be used.

Rocky slopes, ribs, couloirs and ridges are passed by tourists with a preliminary assessment of the difficulty and safety of individual sections. The main indicators of the impassability of the rocky terrain are its average steepness and its constancy throughout the entire length of the site. When assessing the steepness, it is taken into account that from below, from under the slope, it seems shorter and flatter, especially its upper part. The view from above and “head on” increases the steepness, as it were, and the presence of steep drops hides the distance (the dropping of small stones helps to determine the height and steepness of the slope). A correct idea of ​​the steepness of a slope or rib is given by observing it from the side (in profile) or directly accessing it. The safest for movement are ribs and buttresses; the most simple, but dangerous with possible rockfalls are the couloirs. It is allowed to use the lower part of the wide couloirs to bypass the steepest lower part of the ribs and buttresses, the upper part of the couloirs when reaching the crest of the ridge in dry weather in the early morning hours. It is unacceptable to move along the couloirs during snowfall, rain or immediately after precipitation. Passing on the ridges is safe at any time of the day, except in case of bad weather and strong winds. The "gendarmes" encountered on the ridges bypass the slopes or climb over them.

The basis of climbing rocks is the correct choice of route, the use or creation of supports, and the correct position of the center of gravity relative to the support. There are free climbing using natural support points, ledges, cracks and the so-called artificial climbing, when support points are created using rock and bolt hooks, bookmarks, ropes, loops, ladders. Free climbing can be external - along the wall and internal - in crevices and fireplaces. According to the difficulty of movement, rocks (rock routes) in tourism are divided into 3 groups:

1. Lungs, overcome without the help of hands (hands lean occasionally, maintaining balance).
2. Medium, requiring a limited arsenal of climbing techniques and periodic insurance.
3. Difficult, where any methods of free and artificial climbing may be required, continuous belay of the walker and self-belay of the belayer are needed.

Hands and feet can be used for grips, stops and spreads. At captures of a hand work hl. arr. to maintain balance by loading the supports from above, from the side and from below. The main weight is on the legs. For stops, rock irregularities located below shoulder level and unsuitable for grips are used. The force is directed mainly from top to bottom and is transmitted through the palm or part of it and the soles of the feet. Spreaders are used where there are no protrusions for grips and stops on the rocky surface, and the location of the rocks allows this technique to be used.

On rock routes, the following basic rules are followed:

• before the start of the movement, the route, places of rest, insurance and difficult sections are determined;
• climb is performed, if possible, along the shortest direction - the vertical, choosing the simplest path.

Offset to the side (transition from one vertical to another), if necessary, is performed on the most gentle and easy part of the slope. Before loading a rock support, they check its reliability (inspection, pressing with a hand, hitting a rock hammer), after which they try to use it first as a grip or an emphasis for hands, and then as a support for legs. For a stable position of the body, three points of support are maintained, either two legs and an arm, or two arms and a leg. The main load, as a rule, is carried by the legs, the hands maintain balance. In order to save forces, friction is used as much as possible (stops and spacers). They move along the rocks and load the supports smoothly. In areas where there are good handholds and poor footholds, the body is kept farther from the rock; if there are good footholds, closer to the rock. Before a difficult area, you should rest, determine the points of support and grips in advance and overcome it without delay so that your hands do not get tired. If it is impossible to continue moving, you need to go down to comfortable spot and search new version rise. Hands get tired less if the holds are located no higher than the head; when pulling up, they help by extending the legs. For greater stability, the arms and legs are kept somewhat divorced, they tend not to lean on their knees. The design of modern tourist shoes allows you to use the most insignificant unevenness of the relief to create a support. To increase the traction of the boot with the rock, the pressure of the foot must be perpendicular to the surface of the support. With small ledge surfaces, the foot is placed on the inner welt of the boot or on the toe.

When climbing rocks, extreme attention, caution, and confidence are required. In the event of a fall, hands should be kept in front of you so as not to hit the rock and, if possible, catch on to it. Descent on simple rocks is performed facing away from the slope, leaning on the palms of the hands, bending the knees and body, but not sitting down. On medium-difficulty rocks, they descend sideways or facing the slope, their hands maintain balance, the body is almost vertical. On difficult rocks in short sections they descend facing the slope, but more often they use a rope descent: sports, by the Dylfer method or with the help of braking devices. Before organizing the descent, you should make sure that the rope reaches the platform, from where you can continue moving or organize the next stage of the descent. The main rope for descent is fixed on a rock ledge directly or with a rope loop, as well as on rock hooks with a carabiner or a rope loop. The strength of the protrusion is carefully checked, sharp edges that can damage the rope at bends are blunted with a hammer. Old hooks and loops must be tested for strength, at the slightest doubt they are replaced with new ones. The cord loop must be double or triple. All members of the group, except for the last one, descend with the top belay on the second rope. The last participant descends on a double rope with self-insurance. Before descending the last participant from below, they check how the rope slides, when jammed, its fastening is corrected. The second rope, also used for pulling, is passed by the last descender through the chest carabiner. The descent along the rope is carried out calmly, evenly, as if walking on the rocks, avoiding jerks. The body is held vertically, slightly turned sideways to the slope, legs slightly bent and widely placed on the rock.

Snow and firn fields and slopes, as well as closed glaciers, are overcome, if possible, in the cold season. Particular attention is paid to the possible avalanche danger, taking into account the steepness of the slope, the time of the last snowfall, the orientation of the slope, the time and duration of its exposure to the sun, and the condition of the snow. When moving on snow and firn, they follow the principle of maintaining “two points of support” (leg - leg, leg - ice ax or alpenstock). The main efforts are expended on trampling down traces and knocking out steps.

For safety reasons, tourists adhere to the following basic rules:

• on a soft snow slope, the foot support is pressed gradually, using the property of snow to freeze when compressed, avoiding a strong kick on the snow;
• with a fragile crust, they pierce it with a foot and press the support under it;
• on a steep crusty slope, they lean with the sole of the boot on the edge of a step punched in the crust, and with their lower leg on the crust;
• the body is held vertically, the steps (supports) are loaded smoothly simultaneously with the entire sole;
• the leader's stride length corresponds to the stride length of the shortest member of the group;
• all members of the group follow each other without breaking, but if necessary correcting the steps; with a strong crust and on a dense firn, the steps are stuffed with a boot welt, cut down with an ice ax, or they use “cats”;
• in case of a breakdown, having warned the partner in a bunch by shouting “hold”, the one who broke off should immediately begin self-detention, and the insurer should stop the slide at the very initial stage.

On a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 35 ° rise straight up. With a sufficient depth of soft loose snow, the feet are placed parallel, tamping the snow with them until a snow cushion is formed. With a small layer of soft snow on a firn or ice base, the foot is dipped into the snow with a light blow until it stops with the toe into a solid base. Then, without lifting the toe from the base, the step is pressed with vertical pressure. If the steps move out under load, double pressing of the steps is used: first, with a kick perpendicular to the slope, the first portion of snow is pressed, forming the base for the future step, freezing to the underlying firn or ice, and then, using snow from the sides of the hole, a step is formed on the resulting base. On a very thin layer of soft snow lying on ice and dense firn, you should use "cats". With an increase in the steepness of the slope and the hardness of the snow, they move to a zigzag movement at an angle of 45 ° to the “line of water flow”, knocking out steps with the welt of the boot with oblique sliding blows with the obligatory observance of the rule of “two points of support”. On slopes with firn muddy to a considerable depth or covered with dry snow, as well as on slopes with a steepness of 45 ° or more, a lift straight up in three cycles is used. When traversing in a three-beat way, they step over with an added step. Fresh soft snow, softened by the sun, sticks in a lump on the soles of the boots. It must be immediately knocked down by hitting the ice ax on the welt with almost every step.

The deep hoarfrost and frosty sandy recrystallized snow sometimes formed under the infusion are not amenable to pressing. In the first case, only a layer of crust is used for lifting, in the second, a trench is pierced to a dense base, organizing insurance on its bottom through an ice hook or ice ax and knocking out steps.

On a snowy slope of small and medium steepness, they descend with their backs to the slope, straight down or slightly obliquely. In loose and muddy snow they walk almost without bending their knees with a narrow step. On the descent on harder snow, the tracks are pierced by the blow of the heel (to maintain balance, you should lean on the bayonet of the ice ax). If the snowy slope is avalanche safe, then you can go down in a row - each participant makes his own tracks; otherwise, you need to follow the trail. On a snowy, firn or icy snowy slope of great steepness, as a rule, they descend facing the slope for three cycles, using and maintaining the steps laid by the leader, or along the railings fixed on ice axes, avalanche shovel, ice hook or snow anchor. On non-steep snowy slopes, visible to the bottom, gliding (gliding) is allowed - on your feet, sitting, on your back or on your feet and a backpack. The slope must end with a safe roll-out, not have sections open ice, rock outcrops, large stones and pieces of ice; snow - free from medium and small stones. Gliding sitting and on the back is used to overcome narrow cracks and bergschrunds with an overhanging upper edge with mandatory rope insurance. The descender must retain the ability to slow down and stop at any time.

Self-belaying when driving on snowy and firn slopes is similar to self-belaying on grassy slopes. When driving for three cycles, self-insurance is carried out with an ice ax driven into the snow. Self-detention on loose and softened snow is carried out by thrusting an ice ax into the slope above the head with a bayonet and cutting through the snow with the pole, when falling on dense snow, firn, crust or on a thin layer of snow covering the ice - with the beak of an ice ax.

Along the snow ridges and along them they move with simultaneous or alternate insurance. Access to the ridge from the under-eaves side is extremely dangerous, it can be carried out in exceptional cases with the utmost care with climbing along the “water fall line” in the cold season and cutting a transverse manhole through the eaves, with insurance by a partner from a fairly remote point. Traverse under the eaves is not allowed. The descent from the cornice is carried out with cutting or cutting with a rope of an extended section of the cornice with careful insurance.

The technique of moving on ice is determined mainly by the steepness of the ice slope, the state of its surface, and the type and properties of the ice. When walking on ice, "cats" are usually used, less often tricones. On steeper slopes, if necessary, artificial support points are used, namely: cutting steps and grips for hands, driving in or screwing in ice hooks. Movement in "tricked" boots or "vibram" boots is possible on relatively gentle ice slopes, while the movement technique is the same as when walking on grassy slopes. When moving on "cats", the legs are placed a little wider than during normal walking. The "cat" is placed on the ice with a light blow at the same time with all the teeth, with the exception of the front ones. The body should be vertical, its weight, if possible, is distributed evenly over all the teeth of the “cat”. With the next step, all the teeth of the "cat" should come off the ice at the same time. The ice ax is held in a self-insurance position in both hands - with a bayonet to the slope and the beak of the head down.

On gently sloping ice slopes (steepness up to 25-30 °) they rise straight "on the forehead". The legs are placed in a Christmas tree, turning the toes of the legs, depending on the steepness of the slope. The ice ax is used as an additional point of support.

On steeper slopes (up to 40°) move on to zigzag at an angle of 45° to the "water fall line". The feet are semi-herringbone: the closest to the slope is horizontal, the far one is turned toe down, along the slope. When driving on slopes with a steepness of more than 40 ° without a backpack or with a light backpack, you can climb "head-on" on the four front (toe) teeth of the "cats", which are simultaneously driven into the ice with weak fixed blows. The feet are placed in parallel, the heels are lowered, the body is vertical. The ice ax is held in a self-holding position in both hands in front of you, leaning on the slope with the beak directed perpendicular to the slope, the shaft is lowered down with a bayonet. Movement in three measures with observance of "two points of support" (the beak of an ice ax is a leg or two legs). The descent on gentle slopes is carried out straight down with a “goose step”, driving all the teeth of the “cats” into the ice at the same time. With a greater steepness of the slope, they go down the rope. When driving with a load on steep sections, they resort to cutting down steps, while rising in a serpentine. The step should be sufficiently spacious, without ice hanging over it, with a horizontal or slightly inclined surface to the slope. On a slope with a steepness of less than 50 ° steps are cut in the so-called open stand with two hands, with a greater steepness - in a closed stand with one hand. For the descent, double steps are cut down and they move with an added step, leaning on the ice ax bayonet in the self-insurance position. The steps are located one below the other at an angle of approximately 15 ° to the "water fall line". When moving along an ice ridge, steps, as a rule, are cut on its more gentle side, or the ridge is also partially used.

Safety on the ice slope is ensured by self-belaying with an ice ax, hook belaying, self-belaying by the belayer or with the help of fixed rope railings. Hooks are hammered or screwed into pre-cut steps. The railing rope for ascent and descent is fixed on double hooks, an ice column (usually 50-60 cm in diameter) or an eye drilled with an ice screw.

Glaciers pass, if possible, along ice strips free from stones, longitudinal ridges of surface moraines, along randklufts or trenches between coastal moraines and valley slopes, along (or along) crests of coastal moraines. Access to the glacier is possible from the lower part of the valley through the end of its tongue or along the terminal moraine, bypassing the end of the tongue along the crests of coastal moraines or rundklufts, climbing the slopes of the valley and traversing them to a part of the glacier that is convenient for movement. Overcoming icefalls is carried out along a predetermined route with a preview or reconnaissance of the entire upcoming path: bypassing along the slopes of the valley, coastal moraines or rundklufts, directly on the ice along the coast or in the middle (with a tray surface or thick snow cover). The possibility of a through passage may be evidenced by the median surface moraine stretching from the upper reaches to the base of the icefall. Of the two parallel branches of the glacier, the longer one is less difficult. Icefalls with a southern and southwestern exposure, with the same steepness of fall or height difference, are easier to pass than those with a northern or northeastern one. Cracks are overcome by bypassing (tacking), jumping, including without backpacks, followed by transferring them with their hands, or using descent to the bottom and climbing to the opposite side, and sometimes with an air crossing, similar to crossing rivers. Bergshrunds are crossed by snow bridges. In their absence, on the ascent, the upper edge (wall) is overcome with the help of ice axes stuck into it or an “oblique tunnel” is made - a manhole. Descent - by jumping or on a rope ("sitting" or "sporting way"). On closed glaciers, which pose a particular danger, one should move in bundles of 2-4 people. with an interval between participants of at least 10-12 m, bypassing the zones of cracks that occur on the convex parts of the glacier and the outer. the edges of its turns. When forcing unreliable snow bridges over cracks, alternate belay or belay with a railing is necessary.