Mongolia - travel to a friendly country. Do Russians need a visa to travel to Mongolia?
There are 8 road crossings and two railway crossings open on the Russian-Mongolian border, operating all year round. For citizens of third countries, crossing is possible only at the road checkpoints Tashanta - Tsagan-Nur (Altai), Kyakhta - Altanbulag (Buryatia) and at the railway crossing: Naushki - Sukhbaatar (Buryatia). If, for example, the group includes citizens of former Soviet republics, they will not be allowed to cross the border as citizens of third countries. The passage of third-country citizens at this crossing is planned to be opened only after the reconstruction of the Mondy-Khankh checkpoint.
For Russian citizens, it is also possible to cross through road checkpoints: Mondy - Khankh, Solovyovsk - Erentsav, Khandagayty - Borsho, Tsagan-Dogorod - Arts-Sura, Shara-Sur - Tes, Verkhniy Ulkhun - Ulkhun and by railway - Solovyovsk - Erentsav.
Local taxes apply when crossing the border. At the Kyakhta-Altanbulag automobile checkpoint, the Russian side charges money for processing documents when leaving Russia and sanitizing cars upon entry. The Mongolian side charges a transport tax of about $10 and car insurance of $20–25.
It takes from 2 to 4 hours to cross the border, even if there is no queue, but usually, due to queues at the border, crossing by car, for example in Kyakhta, takes the whole day.
VEHICLE CROSSINGS AT THE RUSSIA-MONGOLIA BORDER
Checkpoint Tashanta – Tsagan-Nur (Altai)
The automobile checkpoint in Altai in Tashanta is located in the mountains. Between the Russian and Mongolian checkpoints there are more than 20 km of dirt road and the Durbet-Daba pass with a height of 2400 m. There is a rule here: no one should remain in the neutral zone. This section must be passed before the Mongolian checkpoint closes. Checkpoints operate from 9am to 6pm.
Checkpoint Kyakhta - Altanbulag (Buryatia)
Checkpoint 24/7!
At the Kyakhta - Altanbulag automobile checkpoint, the Russian side charges money for paperwork (about 90 rubles) when leaving Russia and sanitary processing of cars $5-7 upon entry. The Mongolian side charges a transport tax - about $10 and car insurance - $20-25.
It takes from 2 to 4 hours to cross the border, even if there is no queue, but usually, due to queues at the border, crossing by car, for example in Kyakhta, takes the whole day. The modern terminal is designed to handle up to 500 cars per day, but in practice, even if you arrive early in the morning, this does not mean crossing the border before lunch.
Checkpoint: Mondy – Hankh
- Mondy-Khankh automobile checkpoint(302 km from Irkutsk) located on the pass Mungiin-Daba (1830 m.) Has double-sided status. This means that today only citizens of Mongolia and Russia can cross the border here. Open in summer from April 15 to September 15 - from 10:00 to 18:00, in winter - from 10:00 to 17:00. Closed on weekends and holidays.
There is quite a decent asphalt road leading to the border from the Russian side. From the village of Mondy, a good quality road constantly goes up. Mungiin Daba Pass and at the same time a border. After passing the border, a standard Mongolian dirt road begins. The forest has disappeared - there is a steppe all around, with groves on the slopes of the mountains. From the border, the road goes with a general decline. Before reaching the village of Khankh, you must pay an entry fee Khuvsgul National Park.
Since 2010, the Federal Agency for the Development of the State Border of the Russian Federation has been working on the issue of changing the status of the international automobile checkpoint (MACP) Mondy-Khankh from bilateral to multilateral. A positive conclusion to this project was given by Rosgranitsa. However, to date the issue has not been resolved.
Crossing the border by citizens of third countries at the Mondy-Khankh checkpoint (Lake Khubsugul) is not provided for by the intergovernmental agreement between Russia and Mongolia and is only possible for residents of Mongolia and Russia.
Checkpoint Solovyovsk - Erentsav
Open 7 days a week from 9 to 18 with a lunch break from 14:00 to 15:00 Chita time.
Checkpoint Khandagaity – Borsho
The Khandagaity-Borshoo border checkpoint on the Russian-Mongolian border will soon be equipped to practically transfer its status from bilateral to multilateral. Rosgranitsa is allocating 15 million rubles for these purposes. Reconstruction of the border checkpoint on the Tuvan section of the Russian-Mongolian border will double the capacity of passing people and vehicles.
Consul General of Mongolia in Kyzyl Bazarsad announced the decision taken by the Mongolian leadership to open this checkpoint up to 3-4 times a month for the passage of representatives of third countries even before the completion of reconstruction, which usually lasts for several years.
In the meantime, the Khandagaity-Borshoo checkpoint operates in a two-way mode and is open to citizens and legal entities of Russia and Mongolia. Numerous foreigners arriving in Tuva cannot cross the state border on the Tuvan section and are forced to use the Kyakhta checkpoint in Buryatia or Tashanta in the Altai Republic.
Checkpoint Tsagan-Dogorod – Arts-Sura
Checkpoint Shara-Sur – Tes
Checkpoint Verkhniy Ulkhun - Ulkhun
ENTRY TO MONGOLIA BY PERSONAL VEHICLE
To enter the territory of Mongolia with your own car, an international driver’s license alone is enough; no other permits from the Russian traffic police or replacement of Russian license plates with Mongolian plates is required.
You cannot drive across the border in a car driven by a simple written power of attorney - only valid notarized powers of attorney. When crossing the border, the vehicle data is entered into the customs declaration by the owner and recorded in the computer database of the Mongolian customs.
There are no prohibitions when traveling by car within the territory of Mongolia. The only restriction that motorists may encounter is being in the border zone and in specially protected natural areas. Movement in the border zone with China requires special permission. The border zone is considered to be a 30 km strip of land along the state border of Mongolia. For example, to visit the caves on the Darganga plateau, you must have approval from the border guards, since the entrance to the caves is located in the border zone. In the territories of nature reserves and national parks, a paid regime has been introduced for the stay of tourists and the entry of cars. It is legally established at 1,000 tugriks per car, and 3,000 tugriks per person for up to a week of stay in specially protected areas.
On roads when crossing the administrative boundaries of aimags, local tolls are collected, most often 1000 tugriks (for a passenger car), but more expensive for a minibus. Some aimags charge money for crossing wooden bridges. You also need to pay for the use of ferries.
To transport pets across the border, an international veterinary certificate is required.
The use of car radios (27 MHz), satellite phones and GPS is not prohibited (there is no law on the use of civilian radio stations in Mongolia) - importing them into Mongolia and working with them is permitted. The problems begin at Russian customs - permission is needed for radio stations installed on cars. According to current instructions, GPS devices are prohibited from import into Russia. Therefore, when leaving Russia, you MUST include GPS devices in the customs declaration, indicate its serial number, and have a copy of the certificate issued in the store upon purchase.
Road trip around Mongolia
It’s done, we visited Mongolia.
We are me, Alexey, 56 years old and Stas, 31 years old - workers of one of the Perm factories.
We started thinking about a trip to this country about six months before it took place, having read online stories about almost virgin nature, sparsely populated areas, and excellent fishing in the cleanest lakes and rivers. I wanted to see everything with my own eyes and, as they say, experience it in my own skin.
Due to lack of time (we only had a two-week vacation) and the limited capabilities of the available car, we decided to take the shortest route from the border and, as it seemed to us, the easiest route (how wrong we were!!!), to get to know only the Northwestern part countries.
Administratively, it belongs to the territory of the Bayan-Ulgiy aimag (district), and is geographically located in the Mongolian Altai mountains at altitudes from 2000 to 2500 m above sea level. In the North, this aimag borders with the Russian Altai Republic, in the West and South-West - with the People's Republic of China. The main population is Kazakhs, who moved here during tsarist times.
Our specific goal was to visit and, if possible, fish on the mountain lakes Khoton and Khurgan, located almost on the border with China, as well as a trip to Lake Tolbo, 70 km south of the capital of the aimag - the town of Bayan-Ulgii.
Initially, we intended to drive our own car to Bayan-Ulgiy, and there join a group of Russian tourists, for whom one of the Siberian travel agencies was organizing rafting on the Khovd River, flowing from the Khoton-Khurgan lakes.
An agreement was reached with the head of this travel agency that we, together with the group, would be taken to the lakes in Mongolian UAZ vehicles, and then we would hire one of them and travel on our own.
However, literally in the last days before departure, a message comes that the group’s departure is postponed and we are left alone with our plans.
By this time, visas have already been received, equipment has been collected, vacations have been signed, so we decide not to change anything and try to make the trip on our own.
We left Perm on 05/22/09 after work, at night. It is 3000 km from Perm to the Russian-Mongolian border, and about 250 km across Mongolia from the border to the lakes via Bayan-Ulgii.
Our vehicle is a fuel-injected "nine" produced in 2001, slightly modernized for this trip. It was equipped with a lower main gear and a self-locking differential, which significantly increased cross-country ability.
In addition, we took with us two spare parts, the minimum necessary for possible replacement of spare parts and sensors, repair materials and tools. Liquids include oil and antifreeze.
During the first 24 hours we passed the cities of Yekaterinburg, Tyumen, Omsk, covered 1,700 km without a break and spent the night on the banks of the Om River (Photo 1).
Further behind were the cities of Novosibirsk, Biysk, Gorno-Altaisk and, with only one more or less long stop on the Katun River (Photo 2), the next night at four o’clock in the morning local time we were at the Tashanta border checkpoint, which is located in the Altai Republic.
One car from Kazakhstan was already standing in front of the closed gates of the checkpoint. For clarification: relatives of “Mongolian” Kazakhs are forced to travel from Kazakhstan through Russian territory, since a visa is required through China, and Mongolia does not have a common border with Kazakhstan.
So, having settled down with the Kazakh, by the way, an excellent sociable guy, we spent the rest of the night eating right in the car. At nine o'clock in the morning some movement began at the checkpoint, and at ten we were allowed through the gate and the border crossing began.
Customs, transport and passport control: the whole procedure on the Russian side took an hour and a half. Then we drove twenty kilometers of no man's land and everything was repeated with the Mongols. Only it takes twice as long. Well, the guys have nowhere to rush: the service is going on!
Finally, we are in the land of Genghis Khan (Photo 3). Stas is driving. Out of habit, I stepped on the gas - the road looked quite smooth, albeit gravel - but after a kilometer we realized that the car would not last long with such driving. In fact, the road was a natural washboard, on which the whole soul was shaken out and the wheels were ready to come off at any moment. I had to slow down and trudge at a speed of 20-25 km/h.
However, they quickly realized that they could leave the main road and move along one of the countless side roads laid across the steppe in the same direction (Photo 4). Among them there were quite smooth ones, allowing one to maintain speeds of up to 40-50 km/h.
Beyond the small village of Tsagannur, 20 km from the border, the mountains visible on the sides noticeably moved closer to the road, the endless steppe narrowed to an intermountain valley, and the ascent began. The gravel surface of the main road to Ulgii disappeared and it became indistinguishable from many side roads.
One of them took us into the mountains, and only when the car began to warm up did we orient ourselves using the compass and realized that we were going to the wrong place.
We had a navigator with us, but without a map of Mongolia. They couldn’t find her even in Moscow. But there was a 20-kilometer paper map of the entire country with a coordinate grid in degrees, cities, towns, roads, etc.
Back at home, I outlined each degree into one hundred parts, so that the coordinates of any object on the map could be determined with an accuracy of about 0.01 degrees. We had to resort to the help of this map and navigator, which made it possible to determine our true coordinates.
It turned out that we deviated greatly to the East from the road. We entered the coordinates of Ulgiy into the navigator and, using the “direct movement” function, drove along the line drawn on the screen. So we again got out onto the main road and then we always used this technique.
Mongolia began to surprise from the very beginning. The surrounding landscapes were simply stunning. The mountains around gradually became higher and snowy peaks appeared. But the most unusual and unusual thing for our eyes was the complete absence of any vegetation on them and the absolute desertion of people (Photo 5). Only rare birds encountered (Photo 6) and ground squirrels reminded us of the suitability of these places for the habitat of anything living.
Having descended from the first pass at a height of 2200 m, we find ourselves on an asphalt road (!!!) of decent quality (Photo 7). We had a fun ride on the asphalt for 30 km and, just as unexpectedly as it began, it ended.
The countless well-trodden ruts we were already familiar with began again. On the 90-kilometer section of the road to Ulgiy, we crossed another pass with an altitude of about 2000 meters. The entire journey from the border to the town took about four hours.
There is not much to say about the “capital” of the aimag itself, except that the Khovd River, one of the largest rivers in Mongolia, flows through it. It originates from exactly those lakes where we were trying to get to. The town is a collection of adobe huts with flat roofs, mixed with yurts (Photo 8, 9). And only in the market area there are a couple of dozen two-story houses and several somehow asphalted streets, apparently left over from Soviet times.
At the market, which we found with the help of local residents, we exchanged 1000 rubles for their tugriks and wandered around the shops in search of souvenirs. But we didn’t buy anything worthwhile.
But we found a parking lot for UAZ taxis that transport people to the surrounding villages. We started asking them about delivery to Khoton-Khurgan lakes. They explained for a long time what we needed, until one guy came up who spoke a little Russian. Last season, he worked for a Russian travel company that took tourists to these lakes.
He charged $100 a day for his services, our gas. When asked where to get permits to visit the border zone and the national park in the lake area, he answered vaguely. Like, I'll decide everything myself. Well, we took his phone (there is cellular service in the town) and decided to first go to Lake Tolbo. Moreover, this driver will be free only in a day.
We found the exit from the city and slowly drove south at a speed of 20-30 km/h. We covered 70 kilometers to the lake without any problems. On the way we talked with the local population.
First, they helped a Kazakh who was unsuccessfully trying to start his IZH motorcycle. When he showed candles that looked more like firebrands, I threw them away and gave him two candles from my supply. He screwed them into the motorcycle, and it started immediately. After a long tirade, from which they understood that Russia - Mongolia is friendship, they each went their separate ways.
The second time we stopped near a bridge over a dry river to photograph some huge Mongolian symbols made of stones on a steep bank (that was a lot of work!) (Photo 10). A crowd of children led by a parent came running from a yurt located nearby. I had to buy them off with a bag of dry goods.
There was nothing else interesting on the road to Tolbo, with the exception of the surrounding mountains. The further we moved to the South, the more severe and taller they became (Photo 11,12). The sight of mountain peaks caused a certain trembling in the knees and at the same time a desire to plunge further and further into their heap. Probably, similar feelings are experienced by a rabbit standing in front of the open mouth of a python.
However, we reached the upper part of the lake unharmed (Photo 13). For a long time we looked for some river flowing into it, assuming that fishing there might be more productive, but we found nothing.
Then they decided to find at least a place protected from the wind. On this day, a cold and very strong wind blew from the North along the lake.
We were lucky. Behind a ridge of coastal rocks, near a shed made of stones, we found a pocket where it was just possible to pitch a tent, and not far away - a car, so that it could not be seen from the road (Photo 14,15).
The rest of the day was devoted to setting up the camp, preparing food - we didn’t eat anything hot all day, resting, sitting over a bottle of vodka and photographing the surrounding landscapes. We didn't fish. We went to bed early: the road and the impressions of the past day took their toll
The next morning it calmed down, and as the sun rose I went to cast a lure. I wandered along the shore for an hour and a half before I got lucky. I pulled out a kilogram and a half of osman (mountain char in scientific terms). He returned to the tent and woke up Stas. The fish was fried and most of it was thrown away because it was impossible to cope with so many small bones.
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Mongolia is the birthplace of Genghis Khan. The country of winds, lamb and steppes.
This is a review of a short independent trip to Mongolia. Rent a car with driver in Ulaanbaatar.
Mobile communications and Internet in Mongolia. Weather in Mongolia. Mongolian cuisine - what Mongols eat. National parks of Mongolia and photographs from them
Today is September 1st. As in Russia, in Mongolia this day is declared the Day of Knowledge. This day is celebrated with amateur performances, horse and camel racing, as well as a ban on the sale of alcohol in Ulaanbaatar restaurants.
Therefore, I, dear readers of this topic, am sitting, despondent, in the very center of Ulaanbaatar, with a glass of water and waiting for the grub I ordered.
Tomorrow I'll go eat meat stewed with stones. . And then .
By the way, they don’t sell, but there are plenty of drunken people on the street.
Traveling alone to Mongolia
I wanted to make this trip from Ulaanbaatar.
Last time it was proposed to travel together from Tomsk or Barnaul. But I am such that I can’t stand depending on anyone - it was suggested that I go in the company of someone whom I personally do not know and with whom I have never traveled anywhere before.
And I am very sensitive to my travel companions and I have long sworn off traveling with anyone. Therefore, I only considered Ulaanbaatar and renting a jeep here in Mongolia.
It turned out that cars are rented in Mongolia only with drivers.
It turned out, literally before leaving, that the SIXT company, which provided cars for rent at the Ulaanbaatar airport, had closed its representative office.
Imagine the situation: I have in my hands tickets purchased for miles from the Aeroflot company, the tickets have already been postponed from June to September since plans have changed somewhat... and here it’s such a bummer.
What to do? Of course we go!
I am Vinsky and must show by personal example how true independent travelers should behave.
On the day of departure to Ulan Bator (August 30), I sent similar letters to several Mongolian companies found by searching for “rent car Ulaanbaator” via Google and from several instant responses I chose the one that suited me the most:
- by price
- in the absence of a request to pay something in advance (I can’t stand giving money in advance)
I note that the Russian companies included in the mailing list gave the most monstrous prices.
As I understand it, they simply multiplied the prices existing in Mongolia by two.
So, I have a meeting party 4 hours before departure.
The backpack contains a windbreaker, socks, a couple of T-shirts, as well as a laptop, tablet, and phone.
I'm ready.
In duty free you buy vodka in small packages for gifts and a package of cookies for the same.
Visa to Mongolia
The Mongolian visa was arranged in advance. Costs $100. Of the entire necessary list of documents (tickets, application form, photo, certificate of employment, copy of the first page of the salary), only the invitation is difficult, but it is done easily through a Russian company based in Ulaanbaatar. The invitation costs 800 rubles. For other issues, it is better to contact the Mongols directly.
Now you don't need a visa to Mongolia
Ulaanbaatar Airport
Mongolia greeted me with a sign “Sergey Vinskiy – Welcome to Mongolia” and a sunny morning.
The taciturn driver walked me to the ordered jeep - Land Cruiser 80 and handed me a SIM card from the Mongolian operator Mobicom, purchased at my request.
Mobile Internet in Mongolia
By tradition, I’ll tell you about mobile Internet in the country where you plan to travel.
I took the SIM card for a newly purchased Samsung tablet - normal size, not micro.
It didn't work on the tablet. Then I took his Samsung phone from the driver and created an access point on it.
All. Although the Internet was weak - GPRS - I had it.
Let me make a reservation that in those places where I returned to Ulaanbaator this evening, there is no cellular communication at all. But on the way there, in small villages, you could check your mail.
Route in Mongolia
Since I had 4 days to do everything about everything (for the test, I decided not to risk it and fly to Mongolia for a short time), the route that I compiled using the English-language websites of Mongolian companies was logical:
– I don’t time Gobi
– lakes and fishing didn’t interest me for the first time
– Ulaanbaator didn’t interest me, especially
What is there within 300-400 km from the capital of Mongolia?
Eat Khustain nuruu– sand dunes (Elsen Tasarkhai), which in fact turned out to be a tourist attraction with Potemkin-like camel rides
Eat Kharkhorin– the ancient capital of Mongolia (you can spend 30 minutes exploring and then have lunch at Dream World)
Eat Orkhon valley– but this is already interesting.
First time in Mongolia
What you immediately notice in Mongolia is its identity as Russia: the same broken roads, an abundance of SUVs and trash along the roads. The same nondescript houses in the city - in Ulaanbaatar and on the periphery: I had a strong feeling that I was not in Mongolia, but in Buryatia or the Irkutsk region. Same.
We left the airport and went to the city to pick up groceries for the road.
Since I went on a full inclusive course, they were going to feed me 3 times a day, provide overnight accommodation along the route, pay for any entrance fees and taxes, and also refuel the car.
The price was announced by email and I agreed with it: 5 days 4 nights = 1050 dollars, not including the hotel for the last night in Ulaanbaatar.
I tried to change money at the airport, but the driver said softly (I had a Russian-speaking driver who understood Russian):
- There is no need to waste time. If you need tugriks, I will give them. Then, upon arrival, you will give it back.
The Cyrillic alphabet in an Asian country looks awkward and funny.
Mongolian writing was banned here in the 30s of the last century, when Chaibalsan began to build socialism in Mongolia, following the example of the CCCP.
Such devotion was generously rewarded with the massive construction of Khrushchev-era apartment buildings, panel houses with blue tiles (a la Biryulyovo), factories, mines and power plants.
There are three of them in Mongolia. One is located at the exit to the city on the way from the airport - a monument to socialism. One on one smoking monster on the Moscow Ring Road in the Kapotnya area.
The stores are full of products from the Russian Federation, as well as local vodka (Genghis Khan, naturally) and beer.
I had vodka with me, and tried beer - the usual powdered rubbish like Siberian Crown or Klinsky.
Take the proven Tiger.
While they were picking up the food basket (in reality it was a basket full of canned goods), it started to rain. The sky turned gray and sank almost to the ground. It’s terrible - everything around is gray, and then there’s sadness and melancholy thrown on top.
We left the city along a completely broken road. Every minute someone tried to cut us off, there was a steady hum of horns, brand new Land Cruisers competed with broken Korean junk to see who could do who.
The only thing missing were loaves of bread and UAZ cars - they would show you Kuzka’s mother. But they were ahead.
Ahead was the real Mongolia.
This is how I imagined it: deserted, endless, cold, windy and incredibly beautiful
A little about driving culture in Mongolia
There is no culture. There is no respect. Pedestrians are schmucks. And they realize it.
Roads in Mongolia
The road to the west. Asphalt. In some places there are holes, potholes, potholes. The driver swears, mutters that asphalt in general is evil and there would be nothing better than it (asphalt).
All obstacles are driven around oncoming traffic or on the side of the road (more often). Despite the fact that there are more often more potholes on the side of the road than on the asphalt, apparently there is some reason for this - I often noticed cars on the side of the road with their legs sticking out from under them and pieces of a burst tire just after such potholes on the road.
They do work on the road, but not much. What is placed in the pits is placed in water, in a puddle, and after a couple of months it pops out like a filling from a rotten tooth.
I told you that a Mongol and a Russian are brothers forever.
Roadside cafes in Mongolia
Two hours on the road. We need to have breakfast. We stop at a roadside canteen.
Very curious, while they bring me the soup with dumplings I ordered, I look at the audience: the driver.
They use this canteen as a hotel - there are rooms on the second floor and having received bed linen right there in the canteen, they go upstairs, holding a rolled-up mattress under their arm.
Catering workers can't stop watching a Russian TV series with Mongolian dubbing. Channel Russia2.
I ask my driver:
– yes, people here love Russian TV series, and although there are Korean and Chinese TV series, they watch Russian ones and that’s why they go on prime time.
I say that a Mongol and a Russian are brothers forever.
Obo and hadak in Mongolia
In Mongolia, here and there there are heaps, and sometimes heaps of stones, mixed with banknotes and candies.
As a rule (or rather always), in the center of such a pyramid there is a pole to which multi-colored ribbons are tied.
I saw something similar in Buryatia. I asked the driver - what are these, shamanic lures?
“No,” he says, “this is already a Buddhist topic, it’s called about.” Anyone who wants to receive a blessing from heaven must go around the pile clockwise and throw offerings. Usually it's candy or vodka - vodka is splashed into the sky, and then on all 4 sides.
- And the ribbons?
- This is a bad thing. Blue means heaven, white the soul, red courage, yellow wealth.
However, a blue hadak wouldn’t hurt us now, I thought, standing in the drizzling rain. Then he took a bottle of whiskey from his backpack and distributed it to each side of the world... and also wet the heavens.
Lamb in Mongolia
The asphalt gradually ended.
Or rather, it ended in a village whose name I naturally forgot. One attraction is the airfield. Almost overgrown with weeds. But once upon a time (during the times of the USSR) AN-2s flew here from Ulaanbaatar.
We bought meat in this village.
Lamb, a kilo costs about 2 dollars.
“Somehow your lamb is too smelly.” I mean it smells like goat meat...
Let me tell you a secret: I am a big fan of lamb. Was. But after the soup with mouflon (goat) dumplings, which I ate in the canteen, although I washed it all down with plenty of vodka…. I feel like this smell is following me. And the sight of meat triggers my gag reflex.
- What are you talking about!...
And then an excursion into the process of cutting a ram or lamb carcass began.
At first it was said that Koreans, Chinese and other nationalities do not know how to slaughter cattle:
“They cut their throats and leave them tied upside down so that the blood flows out...
– Do you like to drink blood? – I couldn’t resist sarcastically, but the driver didn’t pay attention to it.
– First, they cut the skin of the sheep on the belly...
- Isn’t he in pain? - I interrupted again
- I don’t know, I’m not a sheep... So, after they made the incision, they put their hand in there and climb towards the spine. And there are two arteries there. So, you need to feel which is pulsating. Grab it tightly and tear it off.
“Oops...” was all I could say. I imagined it, winced, but didn’t back down.
- Well, why is this good?
“And therefore, look for yourself: our meat is red, because there is blood in it, but among the mountaineers it is white, because all the blood has flowed out.”
- Cool. I'll probably give up lunch today...
Wild Mongolia
And so began the Mongolia that I imagined on the basis of the works of the film Mongol, Urga, the Territory of Love, the books of Chapaev and Emptiness... Although the latter rather concerns Baron Ungern - the driver was constantly tortured about him, however, as well as about the treasure of Genghis Khan - this is generally from other sources.
I read a lot about Mongolia as a child.
Hills overgrown with spruce began, rivers began jumping over boulders, fields from hill to hill with lawn grass from the “golf” series began.
The jeep climbed steadily along the country road, skirting the black pumice of hardened lava that was thousands of years old.
This road is not asphalt. At every step, something new opens up to your gaze: a landscape, an animal, a bird, a hill. And how good it is that there are few people here.
Mongolian village
– Sergey, shall we have lunch? – the driver’s voice interrupted my admiration outside the windows of the jeep.
- Why not, and where?
- Now there will be a village. My friends live there - I warned them that we would stop by.
You will feel Mongolian hospitality at the same time.
Of course. That’s what I wanted – to be with a family. Not ostentatious, for tourists. But the real one. So, it's time to eat and drink bitter things.
The village is no different from what we saw on our last trip to Baikal: the same unpaved streets, multi-colored roofs, and all the trash in the yard, as if the village of the Plyushkins lives here.
The hut, or rather the house, is a solid one made of solid larch. The inside is predictably cheap with Chinese light fixtures on the ceiling and linoleum. But still better. than in our Russian wilderness.
And the people are not old women with drunken grandfathers: they are relatively young (by the way, I found out the age of the driver - he is the same as me, 46, but he looks like my grandfather (may he rest in heaven).
The hostess rustled when she saw us. She placed low stools next to the painted chest, covered with oilcloth.
A buuz threw an aluminum basin onto the table - this is a variant of Buryat poses and a plagiarism of Chinese jiaozi - steamed dumplings. Hole at the top for steam to escape.
A simple filling made from chopped lamb, but sooo fresh. Yes, fresh, but from the cold and rain near the cheerfully crackling potbelly stove. This is what we need.
I take out a Finnish check. Will you? As you wish.
I take a bowl of tea and pour it cold. Afterwards, I put a few buuz on my plate with my hands and on top the lecho I brought with me (my inclusion, however).
I eat the first one and burn myself with juice. Inserts immediately and without vodka.
I drink a bowl in one fell swoop and another bottle in my mouth.
The whole face is covered in tomato paste. The driver gives a rag - there are no napkins. Will pull.
So, while talking about politics, economics and women, we finish off a bowl and half a bottle of vodka...
Woo!!!
Now I’d like to get some sleep... But there’s still 50 km of difficult road ahead
How to cook marmot in Mongolia
Legend has it that there once was a brave warrior who could hit any target with a bow. And then one day he told everyone - I will shoot the Sun. And he took aim at the Sun, and pulled a tight bowstring, and fired, and the arrow would definitely have hit the Sun, if not for the swallow.
The swallow turned out to be the last because it knocked down the aimed flight of the arrow. Nothing happened to her - she flew off about her business. And the brave and accurate shooter swore:
“If I don’t kill this damn bird, I’ll cut off my thumbs and live underground.”
A year has passed.
The shooter was never able to hit and kill the swallow.
So the groundhog was born...
It is prohibited to kill marmots since almost all of them have already been eaten. Therefore, you have to contact poachers to repeat the cooking process with video.
The process of buying a groundhog is reminiscent of the process of buying marijuana: looking around, we go into the gateway. There they hand us a plastic bag with the carcass, take 45,000 and disappear.
We need to check to see if the groundhog is sick. This is done by visually inspecting the paw pads. If they are black, everything is fine and the marmot was as healthy as an ox. Well, if they are red, then there is a chance of contracting some kind of plague or anthrax.
But we still screwed up - we were treated like students: we definitely had to make sure that the groundhog was shot in the head. This is done like this: you inflate the marmot like a balloon through the place where the head once was (do not confuse it with the opposite!) and it becomes clear whether your animal is airtight or not. Ours turned out to be full of holes like a sieve.
They hit him with shot, no less... But this can also be treated: we patch it with improvised means - such as a tourniquet for car tires.
Karakoram
The ancient capital of Mongolia - Karakorum
Is it worth visiting?
Not worth it. Nothing very interesting to travel 350 km from Ulan Bator here.
If only you stop for 30 minutes on the way. Take a photo of the wall, weeds on the territory and several buildings of non-original “pagoda” architecture.
Well, if you are a believing Buddhist, you can spin the drums with mantras, and also look at the large bronze pot in which food was prepared for 200 monks.
There are several restaurants nearby: Dream World (at the time of my visit here it was closed and the guard waved a broom in front of my nose, upset about something) and a couple more at the campsites.
Old men and women from Europe and the USA are brought to the campsites, so that they can live a little in the shoes of the Mongols. Yurts with air conditioning and heating. Tourists walk with their mouths open at a model of a Mongolian warrior in armor standing in a restaurant.
The food is disgusting - complex. The service is such that the staff are apparently so tired of these grandfathers that the smile has been erased from their faces forever and hatred towards visitors drips onto the floor like Botax
Instead of visiting the ancient capital of Mongolia, the city Karakoram, I would advise you to try milking a yak.
I'll tell you an exciting activity.
Gorkhi-Terelj National Park
It takes 30-40 minutes to drive from Ulaanbaatar. The main thing is to leave Ulaanbaatar. Traffic jams here are worse than in Moscow.
Having paid the entry fee and entered the park, you instantly relax after the capital. There are few cars here. Beautiful nature. There are many places to stay: I recommend the UB-2 golf hotel. Not expensive - about $80 for a single. In the forest. There are women standing on the road selling berries (blueberries are now available in Mongolia).
Using UB-2 as a base, you can wander or ride a horse around the area during the day. There is a lake and a river in the park. I don't know about fishing. I haven’t seen it - Mongols don’t fish.
The valley through which the road passes is surrounded by beautiful rounded rocks. Here is the famous turtle rock, near which annoying traders will offer you to take a photo with an eagle for 1000 tenge.
In general, you can spend day and night. Suitable for those who are transiting Mongolia and want to check in there.
Horhog
At this point I decided to try horhog. This is a national Mongolian dish of stewed lamb with potatoes, milk and cabbage. Made in a can.
Made for 6-10 people.
Since I ordered it for myself, they made me a light version.
I know what I did was wrong.
But more than the taste of the dish - I know this dish well as lamb under sachem in Montenegro and Croatia, or as kuerdak in Kazakhstan - I was interested in:
Why put hot stones in a pressure cooker if the meat is stewed on the fire anyway?
This question was never really answered. I suspect that earlier, when pressure cookers were in short supply, the Mongols actually cooked meat with hot stones, as they do or goat (they don’t make ram with stones, since its bed bursts from the heat).
It was prepared by a family that owns a plot of land in the Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. WITH
I inform you that every Mongolian has the right to a free plot of land measuring 70 by 70 meters.
This does not apply to land in Ulaanbaatar and national parks.
This family was just lucky that their ancestors lived here. The family rents out yurts to city residents who come to the park for a picnic.
One of the women squats by the road with a GER poster and, if there is interest, escorts guests to the place.
I don’t know why, but the Mongols are attached to these very yurts.
When we come for a picnic, it’s customary for us to sit in the open air, and they sit and lie in these same yurts.
Many yurts are equipped with a satellite dish and a solar battery. But I didn’t see a shower or toilet in any of the yurts.
Flaw. The Mongols need to work on this issue.
How to cut up and eat a lamb's head
Written in a separate article: .
5 /5 (9 )In May 2016, Anya and I took our first big trip by car. The trip turned out to be so unplanned by day that we had to improvise on the go. Every day we drove somewhere, not knowing where or how we would stop for the night in the evening.
An unforgettable night in the Gobi Desert. A fantastic place, like another planet.
To visit Mongolia, we chose a route through the Irkutsk region and Buryatia. Of course, it was possible to go through neighboring Tuva, but on the other side of the state border the roads are still almost not paved.
On this trip I saw Baikal for the first time in my life. Here's his first shot:
In three weeks we traveled 7.5 thousand kilometers.
The price of a liter of 92 gasoline in Mongolia is about 70 rubles.
In Mongolia, all asphalt roads are toll roads. Payment is made upon entry and exit from cities.
Tickets for tolls on Mongolian roads. A thousand Mongolian tugriks are about 30 rubles.
Route through the Gobi Desert towards China. During our entire stay in Mongolia, we did not meet a single car with Russian license plates.
Mongolia has a very unusual quality of roads. In Russia there are good roads, where driving is a pleasure, and there are bad ones. On a bad Russian road you simply drive slowly without any problems, avoiding potholes and bumps.
In Mongolia, the situation is slightly different. All roads look excellent. You're flying at high speed on perfect asphalt, and suddenly there's an unexpectedly deep hole, such that you can't get around it from the side! A terrible blow, curse words... You slow down to 60 km/h, drive on like this on absolutely perfect asphalt, after twenty or thirty kilometers you get tired of it, gradually accelerate to a hundred and then again the same huge hole! Aaaaah! Or suddenly you run into a speed bump in the middle of the desert steppe, where there are no populated areas and no warning signs about this policeman.
In general, the asphalt in Mongolia is somewhat contrasting; you can’t find any other characteristics.
Mongols do not know why low beam headlights are needed; everyone drives exclusively on high beam. And according to the rules, it is not customary to turn on the headlights during daylight hours. All oncoming traffic blinked at us, thinking that we forgot to turn off the light, although it was turned on on purpose: safety is more important than rules.
The first Mongolian expression that I involuntarily had to learn was “dugui zasvar” - tire workshop. I’ll tell you a lot more about Mongolian realities, but looking ahead, I’d like to note that not a single tire shop in the whole country has a wheel balancing machine. The Mongols haven’t even heard of such a device, and they don’t even know why they need to balance wheels.
In Mongolia, we visited abandoned Soviet military bases and towns in the desert.
Amazing places and objects! How I love this...
In rural areas, many Mongols still live in yurts.
The photo shows a roadside diner. Moreover, the family that supports her lives in the same yurt!
The capital of the country is Ulaanbaatar. A modern developing city among the steppes and deserts. Most of the country's population lives here.
The world is becoming more and more the same every year. At an unprecedented pace, traditional Mongolian housing is being replaced with standard, faceless high-rise buildings. The country will soon become like China; the economic and cultural influence of its southern neighbor is very strong here. Have time to visit Mongolia while its national flavor and identity are still preserved.
Settlements visited during this trip: Kansk, Tulun, Angarsk, Irkutsk, Taltsy, Listvyanka, Slyudyanka, Baikalsk, Babushkin, Ulan-Ude, Tarbagatai, Desyatnikovo, Ivolginsk, Gusinoozersk, Kyakhta, Altan-Bulag, Darkhan, Ulaanbaatar, Nalaikh, Bayantal, Choir, Airag, Sainshand, Zamyn-Ud.
