Rybachy Peninsula: travel by car. Travel to the Rybachy Peninsula: how to get there? Population census data Rybachy Peninsula

Many have heard the song of the war years "Farewell, rocky mountains", and some may even remember the words of this song, which mentions the Rybachy peninsula, which is melting in a distant fog. But at the same time, few people thought: where is this land? It is located in the very north of the Arctic Circle, 150 km from the regional center of Murmansk. And Cape Nemetskiy, located on the peninsula, is the northernmost geographical point of the mainland of European territory.

History of the peninsula

In this harsh, but beautiful place, located on the shore of the Motovsky Bay, people began to settle for a long time. The Rybachy Peninsula, according to the surviving documents, received its name back in the 16th century. Indeed, in the waters surrounding the peninsula, which do not freeze all year round thanks to the North Cape Current, the Pomors have fished since ancient times (herring, capelin, cod, etc.). The peninsula began to belong to the Russian Empire in 1826, when the state border with Norway was finally established. After the 1917 revolution, the western part of the island went to Finland, which was later annexed to the USSR after

During the Great Patriotic War, the Soviet Arctic became the arena of fierce battles between the Soviet troops and the Wehrmacht troops. The German command attached great importance to the capture of the Kola Peninsula, rich in nickel deposits, and planned to seize Murmansk, the main base of the Northern Fleet, as soon as possible, but these plans were not destined to come true. On the way of the invaders stood the Rybachy Peninsula, which is the most important strategic point from which the entrance to the Pechenga, Kola and Motovsky bays was controlled. Rybachy remained for them an unsinkable battleship, which played a decisive role in protecting the northern borders of our Motherland.

At the end of the war, there were Soviet military garrisons on the Rybachye Peninsula, which is located almost on the very border with Norway, which is part of it, and entry into its territory was limited. Currently, most of the garrisons are closed, and almost everyone can get there.

Peninsula today

The Rybachiy Peninsula, the map of which is replete with bays and bays, rivers and lakes, has become a place of pilgrimage for ecotourism lovers. Fans of off-road racing and fans of extreme diving come here not only from Russia, but also from other countries.

Also, many representatives of youth patriotic clubs arrive on the Rybachy Peninsula in the summer season to visit the sites of the bloody battles of World War II and maintain the monuments to the fallen soldiers in proper condition.

This is really a real Land of the Earth - further only the boundless expanses of the Arctic Ocean, against the background of which everyone arriving here will take memorable photos. The Rybachy Peninsula and the adjacent Srednyi Peninsula are also attractive because here you can often observe the longest polar nights on the mainland (42 days) and (59 days).

The Rybachiy Peninsula is located in the very north of the Murmansk region. He meets tourists with a depressing sight of the abandoned village of Bolshie Ozerki. Abandoned destroyed houses immediately make you want to move on. There are only two residential settlements on the peninsula, and less than 150 people permanently live there.

Rybachy Peninsula. Coast.

The peninsula itself is a low plateau, indented by small rivers, streams and lakes. The highest point is 334 m.

During the Second World War, fierce battles were fought for the peninsula, and you can still see the remains of guns and military fortifications throughout its territory. In the post-war years, there were military bases, a large port, a collective farm, several settlements, but gradually all this was abandoned and fell into disrepair. All over the peninsula there were only dilapidated houses, Soviet and German pillboxes, abandoned and rusting equipment. Until 2009, the peninsula was a border zone, and to visit it it was necessary to issue a pass, now you can freely travel here.

There is only one active military base left, in the village of Vaida-Guba, near the bay of the same name. Not far from the village there is a lighthouse and a monument to the soldiers who died in the battles of the Great Patriotic War. One of the first meteorological stations in Russia is also located here; it was built here more than a century ago.

The most popular route is to the northernmost point the Rybachy Peninsula- Cape German.

Formally, the peninsula is washed by the Barents Sea, but when you look at the huge turquoise waves, you get the feeling that you are standing on the shore of the harsh and boundless northern ocean. By the way, you can almost always admire these waves here, regardless of the season. Even in summer, the wind blows very often on the coast, and in winter the sea does not freeze. Although it is not a good idea to come here in winter just to admire the views. In summer, the temperature rarely rises above 20 degrees. Summer is very short, relatively warm here only in July-August, night frosts begin in September.

Rybachy Peninsula - how to get there?

You can get to the Rybachiy Peninsula only by car. The border zone has been canceled, a Russian passport is enough to travel. Since the peninsula is a natural park, formally, you need to fill out an electronic approval for visiting it, but in fact, there is no one on the peninsula who could check whether a visit was agreed or not.

The easiest option is to book an excursion with some travel company that deals with this. I can recommend the Nordextream company, they carry them to the Rybachiy and Sredny peninsulas and do it well. There is a detailed report with photos of the trip with them.

But if you decide to risk your car, know that you need a well-prepared SUV, and preferably more than one. The second SUV will come in very handy for pulling out the first one.

From Murmansk you have to go along the A-138 highway, after about 100 km. there will be the Titovka river. We cross it and turn right. We drive about 50 km to the village of Bolshoye Ozerko, located already on the peninsula.

Here the road ends, it is very difficult to name what goes on the road. But along the rivers and stones, you can try to get to the northernmost part of the European territory of Russia - the German Peninsula.

Video trip to the Rybachy Peninsula

In the evening we were already in place.

The Rybachiy and Sredny peninsulas have been a specially protected military territory for decades. Then probably no one even dreamed of traveling through them. They knew that there, in the northernmost mainland of Russia, off the shores of the Arctic Ocean, there are peninsulas on which there are military, missilemen and border guards who guard against European enemies.

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In the 90s, Gorbachev made concessions to the civilized worlds and withdrew the military from the peninsula. Since then, the Russians have acquired another huge territory for travel, recreation and fishing.

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The military then left, but the territory was not transferred by status. The Rybachy and Sredny peninsulas are hovering in the air without a definite belonging status. Military settlements were abandoned. Valuable things were stolen by marauders, and time and the north winds picked up the baton.

Everywhere you look, there are remnants of military equipment, garbage from the military and from new travelers. These objects only rush with sadness and disappointment. I didn't want to take pictures.
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A wave of logs from some kind of structure were thrown out along the entire shores of Rybachiy Bay.
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When we drove to a store in Murmansk to buy tackle for sea fishing and along the way collected food, he noticed that the city had not yet had time to repair the city after the German bombings.

The road from Murmansk to the svorotok to the peninsulas took a couple of hours.

From the asphalt road leading to Norway after the checkpoint, after a few hundred meters, as we turned to the right, we immediately ended up in the USSR in 1943.

Although I was warned, I was still shocked by such hellish roads. It turns out that "German bombers bombed the roads pointwise."

100 km to the destination, we walked in 10 hours. Although our car is a real SUV, it was still hit by the bottom hundreds of times.

Given that such hellish roads were not only on our way, but in all directions. As in that fairy tale: if you go there, you will break the wheels, if you go here, you will leave the car.

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Only real extremists travel along these so-called roads, where there is danger at every meter.
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Rivers overcame, small surviving bridges, fords, puddles and mud alternated. Therefore, the peninsula is held in high esteem among travelers, jeepers, fishermen, squares, snowmobilers.

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Here and there broken cars on the road ...
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Nature, with its seemingly scarcity, did not allow looking away from itself. It is a pity that we did not succeed in taking pictures, we stopped a couple of times. There was no time for that.

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In a couple of places on our way, there were some stencils that did not deserve respect, that this territory was like a natural park. This means that somewhere there are offices, employees who receive salaries.
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What are they doing, maybe they have built a gazebo, and that is unlikely.
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At the next monument.
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Thousands of soldiers died on the peninsulas. Many monuments. Some of them are in good condition.
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There are many abandoned monuments in peninsulas like this one.

On closer inspection, you can see a dozen gravestones overgrown with grass.

And in the cities, on the other hand, we celebrate Victory Day pompously and arrange an immortal regiment.

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In fact, it is not surprising that the monuments are abandoned. If at the very city of the hero of Murmansk, the monuments are being destroyed and there is no one to repair them, then it was not worth expecting a better attitude towards them in the distance.

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There is no one to take permits to fish. So catch fish, crabs, shrimps at least in tons, at least in tons.

Perhaps we were in the status of a poacher once we fished without a license.

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There was a sea of ​​fish in the sea ..))
Different fish at a depth seemed to be waiting for a spoon to be immediately attacked and to catch on a hook.

There were also strangers, like this seemingly terrible fish.
We let her go back to sea just in case. Then we learned that the delicacy is the rarest.
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We got such freaks from the depths of the sea
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The fish was caught so well that from the very first day the question arose "where to put it?"

The most cunning fishermen from the team on the very first day went to sea in a hurry and from the heart fished as many as two boxes of different fish. So on the second, third day fishing was taboo. Do not throw it away?

Then they caught as much as they could eat. And we caught fish selectively, which we didn’t eat yesterday.

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Fried flounder fish, oh what a delicious taste!
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They cooked food on gas. By the way, there are no trees as such on Rybachye. Some small handicraft, of which a full-fledged fire cannot be made.

Semeshkin Anatoly Konstantinovich at the workplace.

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Keith liked our presence on the shore and every day he approached us a hundred meters and defiantly blew out boiling water from himself through the pipes. Give him a hole and the water seeped out.
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We wanted to catch a whale for dinner. They consulted and consulted and decided not to.
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Shashlik from some large fish and Armenian vodka went well.
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A group of fishermen from Arkhangelsk, in two cars and with trailers, specialized in crabs. They had conditions for storing fish. Therefore, they boldly caught both fish and crabs.

Moreover, they knew where and how to set the nets and traps.

I even helped them for a minute to release the crab from the net. But he ate as much as he could. Before that, I only knew the taste of crab from those sticks that are sold in stores. Deliciously unbelievable.

It turns out that there are a lot of crabs in these parts. Once they were brought from Kamchatka to breed, so much was divorced that either through the bay, or through the isthmus, they crossed into the waters of Norway.

The paradox is that the Norwegians industrially catch crabs and sell them in bulk, including to Russia.

And in Russia, the mafiosi are responsible officials, even amateur fishing is not allowed. Although unofficially, but quite legally, crabs are sold in Murmansk at every corner, wholesale and retail, and in any form.

Our team did not know how and did not catch crabs. But, they ate when the Arkhangelsk men treated us, and they always treated us.

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The crab, which I lowered to the ground, turned out to be warlike and attacked me and wanted to eat me. But I managed to get away ..
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It turns out that crabs should be boiled in sea water to keep them longer.
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When, on the way back at the airport, I saw what they were selling crabs for and counted how many rubles I had eaten in those 10 days, I already felt sick. It was possible to buy a supported inamark for this money.
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Although the Arkhangelsk people showed us a way to fish for crabs, for us Uralians it was not a feasible dream. Bring such things with you, etc.

By the way, sometimes, but very rarely, and only when good people come to Rybachy, then the peninsula is warm, and such that you can sunbathe and dive into the sea. What we did.

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It was so hot that they only cooled with watermelons. Like this watermelon eater.

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They swam in the northernmost mainland of Russia off the coast of the Arctic Ocean. Since there were no women within a radius of one hundred kilometers, they swam without swimsuits.
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The sea water was very clear! All the fish in it off the coast was visible despite the fact that fish and crabs relieve themselves here, not counting the whale.
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On Rybachye, the weather is extremely changeable. The way it should be in the northern part of Russia, it is windy, cold, rains with snow, then the sun with squall wind and rain.

What we have felt for ourselves. A squall wind instantly tore off the fishermen's tent, though I don't remember where they came from to drink vodka on the peninsula.

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It turned out that the sea here inflows and outflows back every day at the same time, no matter what the weather is outside.
A wave from the sea instantly flooded the rubber boats. Then a lot of people could not drag them to the shore.
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In the photo is the caretaker of the Izhevsk group. The most cruel man. He always looked into the distance and commanded: "Take a ton of fish here, take a ton of crabs there! .."
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For the slightest disobedience, he almost tore my friend to pieces.
Just kidding, staged shots. Kindest man
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Some Izhevsk guys gathered cloudberries and cooked jam in the camp. What can you say, fellows, prudently brought sugar and dishes with them.

And the cloudberries were very tasty and sweet with sourness.

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I wonder how all this junk in the photo fit in one car, as well as four healthy men and another nasty dog. Otherwise, it is expensive for everyone to travel so far in their own car. And ditch the car on these roads.

The only houses on the peninsula that have been built for tourists over the past 20 years. The toilet is outside. To wash in the sea .. Conditions are slightly better than in a tent.
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But in his tent, although the mess is constant all the time, it is cozy and warm ...
Because its own !!!
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The peninsulas for the USSR during the war with the Germans were important in defense. Then the defense of Rybachy, Sredny was built in such a way as to repel attacks from the sea. From the shores, our troops controlled the movements of the German fleet in the Barents Sea and did not allow them to reach Murmansk.

And now, various kinds of structures were visible at every meter, if you look closely.

Non-exploded anti-submarine boats bombing on the shores of the Barents Sea.
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It is not clear the purpose of this 4-5 cm thick nail punched into the stone. Probably from the days of the Vikings.
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It is for this reason that the peninsulas have truly become a historical museum territory.

On the road to Zubovka, in the most continental northern edge of Russia, on the side of the roads, our "guide" showed rock paintings of the Stone Age.

Who in those centuries painted in these harsh lands, Finns, Russians or Norwegians, did not figure it out.
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The Vikings (Norwegians) used to live on the peninsulas, and they left their cultural mark, in the form of the ruins of trading posts, mounds of graves.

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Our military left a fresh and boldly uncivilized mark in the form of destroyed structures.

The Norway, even farther north than the peninsula, have created paradise conditions for life. We have become one of the lucky ones in the world.

In the meantime, there are only frightening ruins around on the peninsulas.

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On the other hand, there are submarines off the coast ...

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He left Rybachy with complete frustration, but with the intentions to return here again.

I would like to return, but not in a jeep with a trailer. Stay in a cozy hotel, catch fish without fear of being a poacher, eat crabs, travel around the peninsula, go into your room in the evening, look out the window at the cold winds, wrap yourself in a blanket and sleep until dawn.

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Can the Vikings or Finns lease the peninsulas? And for us, on account of offset, to come free for a couple of weeks to have a rest like a human being?

Surely there will be inaccuracies in the story, so correct it.

It is important, if you liked the post, support me with a like, comment.

To see Rybachy and not die ... with delight, well, at least try. These words very accurately reflect the emotions from visiting the northernmost European part of Russia. It feels like moving around the peninsula, you pass through several countries: there are mountains, and the sea, and waterfalls, and lakes, and even different seasons.

As one member of the "Opening the Silver Necklace" expedition said: "This is the coolest thing I've seen in my life!"

Until recently, the peninsula was a closed territory, so you can only get here by car.

The Rybachiy Peninsula is located on the Lapland coast of the Arctic Ocean. Between the mainland and the Rybachy peninsula is the Sredny peninsula. Many consider these peninsulas to be a single peninsula and call them one name - Rybachy. In all this vast territory there are only four bases where a traveler can stay.

We met Rybachy with the help of mega hospitable guys from the base "Cool North"... We were late for a trip around the peninsula on ATVs - the weather did not allow, so we mastered the territory on a GAZ-66, among the people - shishiga.

Here she is a fire-machine - Shishiga, which passes such roads, mountains and fords that one can only wonder.

After the Second World War, mainly military and geologists lived on the peninsula. In the 90s Rybachy was practically empty, so roads and bridges in many places are in such a state that overcoming them becomes a quest. But Shishiga coped with everything and the members of the expedition are now happily sitting in their homes on the mainland.

During two days of travel across the peninsula, we saw 2 people and one car.

Barents Sea. After 2200 km from here the North Pole is located.

Despite its northern position, the Rybachiy Peninsula is the warmest place in the Murmansk region and the entire Russian north. Off the coast of the peninsula, the sea does not freeze all year round.

The white lambs do not let go of the waves of the Barents Sea, I don’t want to leave. The sea, although cold, is so attractive in the sun's rays. But our guide urges us on: "You haven't seen so much yet !!!"

After the lowland waterfalls of Karelia and the mainland Murmansk region, the Rybachiy waterfalls amaze with their height and power.

One coast, and the weather is changing at a cosmic speed.

At the entrance to Cape Kekursky, the clouds scattered and the sun came out.

Probably the most picturesque rocks of the peninsula are located on the cape. At once bagpipes sounded in my ears, and a Scottish cage flashed in my eyes, like in the TV series "Highlander", which I watched to the holes in adolescence :)

Near the Kekursky cape there is Guba-Vaida, as the guides and books tell, there was the Kegor bargaining site, where the British, Danes, and Dutch sailed to sell their goods. From here these goods were already going to Arkhangelsk and Moscow.

Mount Motka met with snow and fog, because of which we could not see anything. Although we were told that the views are more beautiful here than from Cape Kekursky.

During the war, a divisional command post was located on this mountain. In general, we were warned that it is imperative to look at our feet, because on Rybach you can still find "echoes of war".

Bloggers are bloggers. There are no species, but there is Internet from Megafon. I had to stay here and break the peninsular internet detox program.

If you love abandoned buildings, then you have something to see here. The Bolshoye Ozerko garrison was disbanded in 1987, and by the 90s everyone had left the village.

The village had a hospital, a school, a canteen, a diesel station and even a museum.

In the 60s and 70s, the first five-storey house on the peninsulas with all the necessary amenities appeared.

When you walk around someone else's apartment, you see that there is a stove in every kitchen, you realize what incredible work it took to build all this on the peninsula and how hard it was for people to arrange their life.

It is a pity that all efforts have gone to waste and no one else needs it.

We are going to the next waterfall.

Photos do not convey all the beauty and power of Rybachy's nature. You look at the camera screen and everything seems flat, small. I would like to ask for a camera and only absorb everything that you see around.

Want to see the mushrooms that are taller than the trees? Here they are - aspen mushrooms.

And there is no way to appease the desire to tell the world about what he saw, and right away. All the same Megaphone periodically gave us this opportunity.

Surely he is listening to something on Storitel about the origin of the Northern Sea Route :)

On the roads there are barrels filled with stones with a sticking pole - landmarks. We were told that this also remained from the military.

Cape German, next to it is the village of Vaida-Guba, which houses a meteorological station and a lighthouse. As the northernmost point of the European part of Russia, the cape attracts thousands of tourists.

Alas, there was quite a lot of plastic on the shore (Greta, you were right) and the remains of a whale that was thrown out 3 years ago. There are also many cairns here. It is believed that during the construction of the pyramid one makes a wish and the stronger and larger the structure, the more likely it is that dreams will come true.

Well, here we are at the End of the Earth!

In mid-July, out of business, my colleagues and I found ourselves on a two-week business trip to Murmansk. Since they arrived in Murmansk in my car, they tried to spend their free time actively: we saw the city, repeatedly fished in the Kola Bay, twice went to Teriberka, and I also managed to visit the Rybachy Peninsula ...

One weekend I was lying on the couch of a rented apartment and decided to read information about the Rybachiy Peninsula and reviews of automobile travelers on my smartphone. The more I read, the more I got the idea of ​​going there. Considering the bad roads and the lack of preparation for the trip, I planned to get only to the Musta-Tunturi pass, walk there along the rocks, to the places of battles and return back. It took no more than half an hour to get ready, in fact there were no fees, I just drank coffee, smoked a cigarette and drove off. I planned to refuel on the way, go to the store for some food and water, but somehow I slipped through all the stores and, having refueled, went with a bottle with about 50 ml of water in the back seat. This attitude towards food was a big mistake, I realized that quickly. All two weeks of our business trip there was a heat of about 30C, which, coupled with high humidity, created a terrible stuffiness. The day of the trip was no exception and I wanted to drink already 50 kilometers from Murmansk.

The route from Murmansk to the Titovka checkpoint is excellent, everyone checks the documents at the checkpoint. As I understand it, the main requirement for free travel is the citizenship of the Russian Federation. After the checkpoint, turn right onto the dirt road, in fact, from this moment the adventure begins. The road along the Titovka River is all in pits and bumps, like the rest of the way, there is probably no point in describing the quality of the “coverage”, because there is no such coverage, there are a lot of reviews on the Internet, I can only say that it is quite possible to drive if carefully.

The road along the river is replete with scenic views and I have repeatedly stopped to admire and take a picture. Unfortunately, the photo does not convey the height.

After some time, the road goes to the left of the river and, meandering, rises higher and higher to the pass. Not the Caucasus, of course, but the rocky northern hills have their own special beauty, it's not just that people who have visited these places once come here again and again.

While driving along Titovka, I was very thirsty, there was a feeling that the palate was stuck together and cracked, I definitely decided that I would reach the pass and turn back. At some point, while bypassing the next pit, it seemed to me that a bottle was lying in the road dust, I drove it, looked in the mirror - it seemed like a bottle really. He stopped, approached and was stunned, a half-liter sealed bottle of “Holy Spring” water lay in the road dust. At that moment it was a sign for me, a sign that I had to go further, beyond the pass. And indeed, it was worth getting drunk as the mood immediately lifted and the strength and desire to go further appeared. After that I quickly reached the Musta-Tunturi pass.

Unfortunately, I was not prepared for this trip and did not have a plan, any points of interest, therefore, stopping at the pass, I just walked along the surrounding rocks. Climbed to the top in search of traces of war. Found.

After the pass, the road began to descend, also replete with views worthy of the artist's brush. I have stopped and admired many times. Thus I got to the Sredny peninsula. I did not like the way through the Sredny peninsula: a dead road, shaking the car from side to side of the pit, a speed of 10 km / h, a monotonous landscape on the left and the Bolshaya Motka lip on the right. From time to time on the coast of the bay there were parking lots of visiting fishermen and tourists. Sights of the Middle - monuments to Soviet soldiers who fell in battle. In my opinion, you need to go to the Srednyaya in order to touch the history of the Great Patriotic War, not passing through as I did, but thoughtfully, knowing specific points. It was in these places and about the events that took place in these places that Konstantin Simonov wrote the poem "The Son of an Artilleryman".

I drove the middle one along the eastern bank and ended up on the isthmus with Rybachy. For myself, I set the task of getting to Cape Nemetsky, to the northernmost point of the peninsula, which is also the northernmost point of the European part of continental Russia. In one of the reviews I read that it is better to get there along the western coast of Rybachy, and I did just that. Having passed the isthmus, I immediately turned left onto the road leading to Cape Nemetsky, leaving the abandoned village of Bolshoye Ozerko on the right. The Rybachy Peninsula is no longer as monotonous as the Sredniy Peninsula, at least it seemed to me so. I drove towards the sun, sometimes it made it difficult to go around stones and pits, but the views were simply fantastic.

The road on the western side of Rybachye is better than on the eastern side of the Srednee, the speed is also 10-15 km / h, but somehow more varied than chtoli. The car chatters less from side to side, but there are many large stones and fords. If you take your time, then completely passing through almost any car.

Perhaps, the beach left the strongest impression on me, before reaching about one kilometer to the Worm Creek. Dark gray sand, as transparent as an angel's tear, seawater in the rays of the setting sun, calm and warm evening ... I did not swim right away, I decided to cheer up on the way back, but, looking ahead, I’ll say that I didn’t succeed, because the low tide had been pushed back by that time water about 150 meters and the view of the beach was no longer so fabulous. The photo cannot convey, it must be seen personally, it is worth it!

It was only a stone's throw from this place to Cape Nemetsky. Having strayed a little along the roads of the tundra in unsuccessful attempts to bypass the military unit standing on the way, I got to my destination.

Below is a short video sketch that I blinded from videos shot on a mobile phone. I shot with one hand, the other held the steering wheel, respectively, the areas that had to be overcome while holding the steering wheel with both hands were left behind the scenes.

At the final point, I stayed no more than an hour, walked, admired the sea and drove back. The return trip followed the same route. Left the house at about 14-30, came back about 9-30.

While driving along Rybachy, I met a car of French travelers. I didn't notice the people nearby, so I just drove by. Having already returned to St. Petersburg, I went to the site indicated on the board of their car and read information about them, about the car and their travels. Read it, it is interesting to look at our country through the eyes of foreigners who have seen it not only at football stadiums and bars in big cities.

P.S. I consider it my duty to ask you, friends, do not litter, please. The tundra will not take anything, everything that you left will lie for decades if not centuries. The soil layer is very small, do not tear it with tire treads, it will heal for a very long time, there are roads.

P.P.S. A week ago I was sure that I no longer traveled to Rybachy by car, but now I have thoughts about proper preparation and how to plan a route. I will go, I will definitely go, but not in a hurry, with fishing and spending the night in a tent ...