Caucasus mountains height. Main Caucasian Ridge

Caucasus mountains - mountain system between the Black and Caspian seas. It is divided into two mountain systems: the Greater Caucasus and the Lesser Caucasus.

The Greater Caucasus stretches for more than 1,100 km from northwest to southeast, from the Anapa region and the Taman Peninsula to the Absheron Peninsula on the Caspian coast, near Baku. The Greater Caucasus reaches its maximum width in the Elbrus region (up to 180 km). In the axial part there is the Main Caucasian (or Vodorazdelny) ridge, to the north of which there are a number of parallel ridges (mountain ranges), including a monoclinal (cuest) type. South slope Greater Caucasus for the most part consists of en-echelon ridges adjacent to the Main Caucasian ridge.

Traditionally, the Greater Caucasus is divided into 3 parts: the Western Caucasus (from the Black Sea to Elbrus), the Central Caucasus (from Elbrus to Kazbek) and the Eastern Caucasus (from Kazbek to the Caspian Sea).

The Greater Caucasus is a region with a large modern glaciation. The total number of glaciers is about 2,050, with an area of ​​about 1,400 km². More than half of the glaciation of the Greater Caucasus is concentrated in the Central Caucasus (50% of the number and 70% of the area of ​​glaciation). The major centers of glaciation are Mount Elbrus and the Bezengi wall. The largest glacier in the Greater Caucasus is the Bezengi glacier (about 17 km long).

The Lesser Caucasus is connected to the Greater Caucasus by the Likhsky ridge, in the west it is separated from it by the Colchis lowland, in the east by the Kura depression. The length is about 600 km, the height is up to 3724 m. The largest lake is Sevan.

The Western Caucasus is part of the Greater Caucasus mountain system, located to the west of the meridional line passing through Mount Elbrus. The part of the Western Caucasus from Anapa to Mount Fisht is characterized by low-mountainous and medium-mountainous relief (the so-called North-Western Caucasus), further to the east to Elbrus, the mountain system acquires a typical alpine appearance with numerous glaciers and high-mountainous relief forms. In a narrower sense, which is adhered to in the mountaineering and tourist literature, only a part of the Main Caucasian Ridge from Mount Fisht to Elbrus is attributed to the Western Caucasus. On the territory of the Western Caucasus - the Caucasian Reserve, the Bolshoi Tkhach Natural Park, the Buiny Ridge nature monument, the Tsitsa Upper River natural monument, the Pshekha and Pshekhashkha Upper Rivers nature monument, which are under the protection of UNESCO as an example World heritage... The most popular areas for climbers and tourists are: Dombay, Arkhyz, Uzunkol

Central Caucasus

The Central Caucasus rises between the peaks of Elbrus and Kazbek and is the highest and most attractive part of the entire Caucasian ridge. All five-thousanders are located here along with their numerous glaciers, including one of the largest - the Bezengi glacier - 12.8 kilometers long. The most popular peaks are located in the Elbrus region (Ushba, Shkhelda, Chatyn-tau, Donguz-Orun, Nakra, etc.). Here is also the famous Bezengi wall with a majestic environment (Koshtantau, Shkhara, Dzhangi-tau, Dykh-tau, etc.) Here are the most famous walls in the Caucasus mountain system.

Eastern Caucasus

The Eastern Caucasus stretches 500 km east from Kazbek to the Caspian Sea. It stands out: the Azerbaijan mountains, the Dagestan mountains, the Chechen-Tusheti mountains and the Ingusheto-Khevsureti mountains. Especially popular is the Erydag massif (3925m), located in the Dagestan mountains.

As the border between Europe and Asia, the Caucasus has a unique culture. In a relatively small area, concentrated big variety languages. The Caucasus and the ridges adjoining it from the north and south in ancient times were the crossroads of great civilizations. Plots related to the Caucasus occupy an essential place in Greek mythology (myths about Prometheus, Amazons, etc.), the Bible also mentions the Caucasus as a place of salvation of mankind from the flood (in particular, Mount Ararat). The peoples who founded such civilizations as Urartu, Sumer and the Hittite state are considered by many to be from the Caucasus.

However, the image of the Caucasus Mountains and associated mythical and legendary representations received the most complete display among the Persians (Iranians). Iranian nomads brought with them a new religion - Zoroastrianism and a special world outlook associated with it. Zoroastrianism has had a serious impact on world religions - Christianity, Islam, and, in part, Buddhism. Iranian names have retained, for example, the mountains and rivers of the Caucasus (the Aba river - "water", Mount Elbrus - "iron"). You can also point to the popular in the East particle "stan" in such names of countries as Dagestan, Hayastan, Pakistan, which is also of Iranian origin and translates roughly as "country".
Iranian origin and the word "Caucasus", which is assigned to the mountain ranges in honor of the epic king of Ancient Iran, Kavi-Kaus.

In the Caucasus, there are about 50 peoples who are designated as Caucasian peoples (for example: Circassians, Chechens), Russians, etc., speaking Caucasian, Indo-European, and also Altai languages. Ethnographically and linguistically, the Caucasian region can be classified as one of the most interesting regions in the world. At the same time, populated areas are often not clearly separated from each other, which is partly the cause of tensions and military conflicts (for example, Nagorno-Karabakh). The picture changed significantly, first of all, in the 20th century (genocide of Armenians under Turkish rule, deportation of Chechens, Ingush and other representatives of ethnic groups during Stalinism).

Local residents are partly Muslims, some Orthodox Christians (Russians, Ossetians, Georgians, part of Kabardians), as well as Monophisites (Armenians). The Armenian Church and the Georgian Church are among the oldest Christian churches in the world. Both churches have an extremely important role in promoting and protecting the national identity of peoples who have been under foreign rule for two centuries (Turks, Persians).

In the Caucasus, there are 6,350 species of flowering plants, including 1,600 native species. 17 species of mountain plants originated in the Caucasus. The Giant Hogweed, which is considered a neophyte of predatory species in Europe, comes from this region. It was imported in 1890 as an ornamental plant in Europe.

The biodiversity of the Caucasus is falling at an alarming rate. The mountainous region is one of the 25 most vulnerable regions on Earth in terms of nature conservation.
In addition to the widespread wild animals, there are wild boars, chamois, ibex, and golden eagles. In addition, wild bears are still found. The Caucasian leopard (Panthera pardus ciscaucasica), which was rediscovered only in 2003, is extremely rare. In the historical period, there were also Asiatic lions and Caspian tigers, but soon after the birth of Christ, they were completely eradicated. A subspecies of the European bison, the Caucasian bison, became extinct in 1925. The last specimen of the Caucasian moose was killed in 1810.

Caucasus mountains on the border of Russia and Georgia


In clear weather, the top of the mountain Kezgen(4011 m) gives a unique opportunity to observe the rich and cheerful picture of the Central Caucasus from the side. Almost all the main and secondary mountain ranges of the Main Caucasian Ridge, regions Tyutyusu, Adyrsu, Chegema, Bezengi, Adylsu, Yusengi and upper Baksan gorge, and over the passes and less high peaks of the GKH, distant mountain vistas open up Svaneti... On the opposite side of the horizon, the Caucasian monarch Elbrus shows a strictly end symmetrical view of its Eastern peak.

The source material of the publication is photographs taken from the top of the mountain. Kezgen in July 2007 and July 2009. They formed the basis two basic panoramas.

PANORAMA-1:- evening panorama (July 2007). It covers the GKH sector from the Bezenga wall to Chatyn, as well as the regions of the spurs of the Main ridge - Chegem, Adyrsu and Adylsu, descending to the Russian side.

PANORAMA-2:- morning panorama (July 2009). Partially overlapping Panorama-1, it represents the GKH sector from the Bezenga wall to Azau, the Russian spurs of the GKH - Adyrsu, Adylsu, Yusengi, Kogutai and Cheget, the Azau-Elbrus jumper, as well as South-Eastern (with Terskolak peak) and Vostochny (with Irikchat peak) ) the spurs of Elbrus.

The two main panoramas come with additional PANORAMA-3(July 2007). It gives a view of the spurs of East Elbrus in the Subashi-Kyrtyk-Mukal sector from the pass of Russian officers (which is near the Kezgen peak, 150 m below it).

Together, these three panoramas cover the entire field of view.

Camera- Nikon 8800.

More about Kezgen peak.
Kezgen is located in the highest of the eastern spurs of Elbrus - the one that stretches from the peak overhanging its ice fields Chatkara(3898 m) to the villages of Elbrus and Neutrino in the Baksan Valley. The spur has a number of left branches in the direction of the Subashi, Kyrtyk and Syltransu rivers, while it itself borders the Irikchat river valley with its left side and - after its confluence with Irik - the Irik valley. The main peak in this spur is Irikchat(4054 m), slightly inferior to her Subashi(3968 m) in the north-west and the equal-high duet Kezgen - Soviet warrior(4011 m) in the southeast.

The ascent to Kezgen is beautiful, pleasant and uncomplicated. The beginning of the movement towards Kezgen, the Soviet soldier and Irikchat is common - from the floodplain of the Irikchat river by a grassy slope, along a path that is clearly visible from a distance. Then the paths diverge, the Kezgen path takes to the right. Upon reaching the talus slopes, it is lost on the upper traverses, but with sufficient visibility, one cannot miss the takeoff opening to the left to the pass of Russian officers (tourist 1B). The exit from the saddle to the top (along the northeastern ridge) is also simple - 1B mountaineering. (Kezgen was sometimes visited by climbers as part of the Kezgen traverse - a Soviet warrior, who was reputed in the Adylsu alpine camps as a kind of exile.)

Kezgen is the closest four-thousanders to the north of Baksan, all the peaks closer to the river are significantly lower. This advantageous feature of its location and route simplicity make Kezgen an excellent observation point.

PANORAMAS, DESIGNATIONS, DESCRIPTION.

PANORAMA-1 (over 800 Kb, 8682 x 850 pixels) in its original form:

PANORAMA-1 with marked peaks, passes, glaciers and gorges:

PANORAMA-2 (over 1.2 MB, 10364 x 1200 pixels) in its original form:

PANORAMA-2 with marked peaks, passes, glaciers and gorges:

Additional PANORAMA-3 - view to the northeast into the valley of the Mukal glacier:

Accepted designations and general principles.

Marked on the panorama:

Mountain peaks - colored circles,
passes- crosses,
glaciers- rectangles,
gorges (river valleys)- double wave.

At passes, glaciers and gorges, the numbering is through, from right to left.

All signs glaciers and gorges blue. Signs passes and peaks painted in different colors, depending on their belonging to a particular mountain region.

Color differentiation of icons helps to more clearly represent and trace the location of the various mountain areas visible in the panorama, especially where they overlap.

Colors used:

- green dense: for objects outside the State Border of the Russian Federation,
- Red: for the peaks and passes of the GKH,
- purple light: for the peaks of the Bezengi region outside the GKH,
- Orange: for peaks and passes in the Adyrsu ridge,
- yellow pure: for peaks and passes in the Adylsu ridge,
- yellow dirty: for peaks and passes in the Yusengi ridge,
- dark purple: for peaks and passes in the Kogutai spur of Donguzorun,
- pale green: for the peaks and passes of the Southeastern Spur of Elbrus,
- pale plum: for the peaks and passes of the Elbrus-Azau jumper,
- light brown: for the peaks and passes of the ridge in the upper reaches of the Irik and Irikchat,
- White: for the peaks and passes of the Eastern Spur of Elbrus,
- blue: for peaks and passes in short spurs of the GKH (summit circles in this case are in a red rim), as well as in spurs of the Adyrsu ridges (summit circles in an orange rim) and Adylsu (summit circles in a yellow rim).

1. MOUNTAINS

Note. The heights of the peaks indicated below in some cases differ from those given by the "Classification of routes to mountain peaks" (hereinafter "Classifier"). These heights are given mainly according to the maps of the General Staff (hereinafter "General Staff"), constructed from the results of methodically homogeneous measurements within the framework of a unified topographic program of the Soviet era. The General Staff cites altitude data with an accuracy of 0.1 meters, but it should, of course, be borne in mind that such an enviable accuracy could claim to cover only random measurement errors, and not systematic errors of the measuring technique itself.

1.1. TOP LOCATED IN GEORGIA

1 - Tetnuld, 4853 m
2 - Svetgar, 4117 m
3 - Asmashi, 4082 m
4 - Marianna (Marianna), 3584 m
5 - Lekzyr (Dzhantugan), 3890 m
6 - Chatyn Glavny, 4412 m
7 - Ushba Severnaya, 4694 m
8 - Ushba Yuzhnaya, 4710 m
9 - Cherinda, 3579 m
10 - Dolra, 3832 m
11 - Shtavleri, 3994 m

1.2. TOP OF THE MAIN CAUCASIAN RIDGE (GKH)

1 - Bezengi Wall (details on the enlarged fragment of the panorama)
2 - Gestola, 4860 m
3 - Lyalver, 4366 m
4 - Tichtengen, 4618 m
5 - Bodorka, 4233 m
6 - Bashiltau, 4257 m
7 - Sarykol, 4058 m
8 - Ullutau massif, 4277 m
9 - Latsga, 3976 m
10 - Chegettau, 4049 m
11 - Aristov rocks (3619 m - Kaluga peak)
12 - Dzhantugan, 4012 m
13 - Bashkara, 4162 m
14 - Ullukara, 4302 m
15 - Free Spain, 4200 m
16 - Bzhedukh, 4280 m
17 - Eastern Caucasus, 4163 m
18 - Shchurovsky, 4277 m
19 - Chatyn West, 4347
20 - Ushba Malaya, 4254 m
21 - East Shkhelda, 4368 m
22 - Shkhelda Central, 4238 m
23 - Aristov (Shkhelda 3rd Western), 4229
24 - Shkhelda 2nd Western, 4233 m
25 - Western Shkhelda, 3976 m
26 - Trade unions, 3957 m
27 - Athlete, 3961 m
28 - Shkhelda Malaya, 4012 m
29 - Akhsu, 3916 m
30 - Yusengi Uzlovaya, 3846 m
31 - Gogutai, 3801 m
32 - Eastern Donguzorun, 4442 m
33 - Donguzorun Main, 4454 m
34 - Donguzorun West, 4429 m
35 - Nakratau, 4269 m
36 - Chiper, 3785 m
37 - Chiperazau, 3512 m

Summits in short spurs of the GKH

1 - Germogenov, 3993 m
2 - Chegetkara, 3667 m
3 - Caucasus Main, 4109 m
4 - Western Caucasus, 4034 m
5 - Donguzorun Small, 3769 m
6 - Cheget, 3461 m

1.3. TOP OF THE BEZENGI DISTRICT

1 - Dykhtau, 5205 m (5204.7 according to the General Staff map, 5204 according to the Classifier and Lyapin's scheme)
2 - Koshtantau, 5152 m (5152.4 according to the General Staff map, 5150 according to the Classifier, 5152 according to the Lyapin scheme)
3 - Ulluaus, 4682 m (4681.6 according to the General Staff map, 4675 according to the Classifier, 4676 according to the Lyapin scheme)
4 - Thought, 4677 m (4676.6 according to the General Staff map, 4557 according to the Classifier, 4681 according to the Lyapin scheme)

1.4. TOP OF ADYRSU DISTRICT

1 - Adyrsubashi, 4370 m (4346)
2 - Orubashi, 4369 m (4259)
3 - Yunomkara, 4226 m
4 - Kichkidar, 4360 m (4269)
5 - Jailik, 4533 m (4424)

From the Jailik massif, the Adyrsu ridge divides into two branches:
(a) the northwest branch,
(b) the northeastern branch.

Peaks of the north-western branch of the Adyrsu ridge:

6а - Tyutyubashi, 4460 m (4404)
7а - Sullukol, 4259 m (4251)
8а - Steel, 3985 m

Peaks of the northeastern branch of the Adyrsu ridge:

6b - Kenchech, 4142 m
7b - Orel, 4056 m (4064)
8b - Kayarta, 4082 m (4121)
9b - Kilar, 4000 m (4087)
10b - Sakashil, 4054 m (4149)

Peaks in the spurs of the Adyrsu ridge:

from the town of Adyrsubashi
a - Chemist, 4087 m
b - Moskovsky Komsomolets, 3925 m
c - Triangle, 3830 m

From Jailik
d - Chegem, 4351 m

From Tyutyubashi
e - Kullumkol, 4055 m (4141)
f - Theremin, 3950 m (3921)

From Kilar
g - Adjikol (Adjikolbashi, Adjikolchatbashi), 3848 m (4126).

1.5. TOP OF ADYLSU DISTRICT

(in brackets - heights according to Lyapin's scheme, if there is a difference)

1 - Kurmychi, 4045 m
2 - Andyrchi Uzlovaya, 3872 m
3 - Andyrtau (Andyrchi), 3937 m
4 - Mongolian People's Republic (peaks of the Mongolian People's Republic): North-East 3830 m (3838), Central 3830 m (3849), South-West 3810 m (3870).

Peaks in the spurs of the Adylsu ridge towards the Adyrsu valley:

1.6. THE TOP OF THE YUSENGI RIDGE

1 - Yusengi, 3870 m
2 - Yusengi Severnaya, 3421 m. According to a tradition that apparently goes back to the map of the General Staff, the names of these two peaks are confused with each other

1.7. TOP OF THE KOGUTAY SPRAY OF DONGUZORUN

1 - Interkosmos, 3731 m
2 - Small Kogutai, 3732 m
3 - Big Kogutai, 3819 m
4 - Baksan, 3545 m
5 - Kakhiani (Donguzorungitchechatbashi), 3367 m
6 - Dining room, 3206 sq.

1.8 TOP IN THE LINK BETWEEN GKH AND ELBRUS

1 - Azaubashi, 3695 m
2 - Ullukambashi, 3762 m

1.9 TOP OF THE SOUTH-EASTERN ELBRUS ROOM

1 - Terskol, 3721 m
2 - Terskolak, 3790 m
3 - Sarykolbashi, 3776 m
4 - Artykkaya, 3584 m
5 - Tegeneklibashi, 3502 m

1.10 TOP OF THE RIDGE IN THE TOP OF THE GORGES OF IRIK AND IRIKCHAT

1 - Achkeryakolbashi (Askerkolbashi), 3928 m
2 - Red Hill, 3730 m

1.11 TOP OF THE EASTERN ROOM OF ELBRUS

1 - Irikchat Western, 4046 m
2 - Irikchat Central, 4030 m
3 - Irikchat Vostochny, 4020 m
4 - Soviet warrior, 4012 m

1.12 TOP IN THE NORTH-EAST (ON THE SIDE OF THE MUKAL GLACIER)
Shown separately on PANORAMA-3

Islamchat (3680 m)
Shukambashi (3631 m)
Jaurgen (3777 m)
Suaryk (3712 m)
Kyrtyk (3571 m)
Mukal (3899 m)

2. PASSES

1 - Khunaly Yuzh, 2B - connects the valleys of Khunalychat (Sakashilsu tributary) and Kayarty (Kayarta river)
2 - Kayarta Zap, 2A - between the peaks of Kilar and Adjikol
3 - Kayarta, 1B - between the peaks Kayarta and Kilar
4 - Sternberg, 2A - between the peaks of Orelyu and Kayart
5 - Kilar, 1B - between the peaks of Kenchech and Orelyu
6 - Vodopadny, 1B - in the northern spur of the Stal peak
7 - Sullukol, 1B - in the western spur of the Stal peak
8 - Spartakiad, 2A * - between the Tyutyubashi massif and the summit of the Spartakiad
9 - Kullumkol, 1B - between Tyutyubashi massif and Kullumkol peak
10 - Tyutyu-Dzhailyk, 3A - between the peak of Dzhailik and the Tyutyubashi massif
11 - Chegemsky, 2B - in the shoulder of Kichkidar
12 - Kichkidar, 2B - between the peaks of Yunomkara and Kichkidar
13 - Freshfield, 2B - between the peaks of Orubashi and Yunomkara
14 - Golubeva, 2A - between the peaks of Adyrsubashi and Orubashi
15 - Garnet, 1A - in the northern spur of the peak of the Navy
16 - Kurma, 1A - in the northern spur of the peak of the Navy
17 - Dzhalovchat, 1B - between the peaks of the Fizkulturnik and the Navy
18 - Mestia, 2A - between the peaks of Ullutau and Sarykol
19 - Churlionisa Vost, 3A * - between Yesenin's peak and Gestola's shoulder
20 - Svetgar, 3A - between the peaks of Svetgar and Thoth
21 - Dzhantugan, 2B - between the Dzhantugan peak and Aristov rocks
22 - Marianna, 3A - between the peaks Marianna and Svetgar
23 - Bashkara, 2B * - between the peaks of Bashkar and Dzhantugan
24 - Pobeda, 3B - between the peaks of Ullukar and Bashkar
25 - Kashkatash, 3A * - between the peak of Free Spain and the peak of Ullucara
26 - Double, 3A - between the peak of the Caucasus Vost and the peak Bzhedukh
27 - Saddle of the Caucasus, 3A - between the peaks of the Caucasus Gl and Vost
28 - Krenkel, 3A - between the peaks of the Caucasus Gl and Zap
29 - Chalaat, 3B - between the peaks Chatyn Zap and M. Ushba
30 - Ushbinsky, 3A - between the Ushba and Shkhelda massifs
31 - Bivachny, 2B * - between the peaks of the Fizkulturnik and the Trade Unions
32 - Yusengi, 2B - between the peaks Yusenga and Yusengi Severnaya
33 - Medium, 2B - between the Malaya Shkhelda peak and the Fizkulturnik peak
34 - Rodina, 2A (when moving along the buttress from the side of the Yusenga valley) - between the peaks of Yusenga and Yusenga Uzlovaya
35 - Akhsu, 2A - between the peaks of Yusengi Uzlovaya and Akhsu
36 - Becho, 1B - in the ridge of the GKH between peaks 3506 and 3728, it is the lowest pass on the GKH section between Donguzorun and the Yusengi ridge and the closest to the Yusengi peak Uzlovaya.
37 - Becho False, 1B - in the ridge of the GKH to the west of summit 3506 and east of the lane. Olympian
38 - Yusengi Peremetny, 1B - glacial crossing across the short eastern spur of Gogutai peak
39 - Vysokaya Dolra, 2A - at the GKH descent from the Vost peak. Donguzorun under the Gogutai peak.
40 - Shepherd (Okhotsk), 1A - connects the Yusengi gorge with the upper reaches of the Kogutayka
41 - Vladimir Korshunov, 1B - between the Bolshoi Kogutai peak and Baksan peak
42 - Pearl of Primorye, 1B * - between the peaks Big and Small Kogutai
43 - Kogutai, 1B - between Interkosmos peak and Maly Kogutai peak
44 - Seven, 3B * - between the peaks Nakra and Donguzorun West
45 - Donguzorun False, 1B - the pass closest to the Nakra peak (from the west) across the GKH
46 - Donguzorun, 1A - the simplest and lowest pass across the GKH to the west of the Nakra peak, located west of the Donguzorun False pass.
47 - Suakkalar, 1B * - between the peaks of Artykkaya and Sarykolbashi
48 - Sarykol (conventional name), 1B * - between the peaks of Sarykolbashi and Terskolak
49 - Chiper, 1B * - the pass closest to the Chiper peak through the GKH between the Chiper and Chiperazau peaks
50 - Chiperazau, 1A - the closest to the top of the Chiperazau pass through the GKH between the peaks of Chiperazau and Chiperazau
51 - Azau, 1A - between the peaks of Chiperazau and Azaubashi
52 - Hasankoysyurulgen, 1B - between the peaks of Azaubashi and Ullukambashi
53 - Terskolak, 1B - in the ridge under the Terskolak peak to the north of it
54 - Terskol, 1B * - between Terskol peak and ice slopes of Elbrus
55 - Assol, 1B - the more southern of the neighboring passes connecting the Irik glacier and a small "internal" glacial circus between the upper reaches of the Irik and Irikchata gorges
56 - Frezi Grant, 1B - pass in the same summit circus as per. Assol (no. 55), north of it
57 - Irik-Irikchat, 2A - in the ridge between the Irik and Irikchat glaciers to the south of the peak of Achkyakolbashi
58 - Chat Elbrussky, 1B * - in the ridge between the Irik and Irikchat glaciers, the ridge west of the peak of Achkeryakolbashi
59 - Irikchat, 1B * - between Irikchat glacier and Chatkara peak

PASSES IN THE NORTH-EAST, ON THE SIDE OF THE MUKAL GLACIER (without numbering, shown separately on PANORAMA-3):

Mukal-Mkyara, 1B
Mukal-Mkyara false, 3A
Voruta, 1A
Ritenok, 1B
Baumanets, 2A
Khibiny, 1B
Pathfinders, 1B

3. GLACIERS

1 - Kayarta West (No. 485-b)
2 - Orel (No. 485-a)
3 - Sullukol (No. 491)
4 - Young Severny (No. 487-d)
5 - Yunom (No. 487-b)
6 - Nitrogen (No. 492-b)
7 - Kurmy East (No. 498)
8 - Adyrsu Vostochny (No. 493-e)
9 - Bashkara (No. 505)
10 - Kashkatash (No. 508)
11 - Bzhedukh (No. 509)
12 - Ushbinsky icefall
13 - Shkheldinsky (No. 511)
14 - Akhsu (No. 511-b)
15 - No. 511-a
16 - Yusengi (No. 514)
17 - No. 515-b
18 - Ozengi (No. 515-a)
19 - No. 517-b
20 - Kogutai Vostochny (No. 517-a)
21 - Western Kogutai
22 – № 518
23 – № 519
24 – № 520
25 – № 538
26 - No. 537-b
27 - No. 537-a
28 – № 536
29 - Big Azau (No. 529)
30 - Garabashi
31 - Terskol
32 - Irik (No. 533)
33 - Irikchat
Mukal Glacier - see Additional PANORAMA-3

4. RIVER BASINS (GORGES)

1 - Kullumkol
2 - Sullukol
3 - Waterfall (these three rivers: 1, 2, 3 are the right tributaries of the Adyrsu river)
4 - Shkhelda (Adylsu tributary)
5 - Yusengi
6 - Kogutayka (these two rivers: 5 and 6 are the right tributaries of the Baksan)
7 - Irik
8 - Irikchat (the last two rivers - 7 and 8 - left tributaries of the Baksan)

ENLARGED FRAGMENTS OF BASIC PANORAMAS.

a) Tyutyu-Bashi and Dzhailik.

Array Tyutyu-Bashi(4460 m) in this fragment of the panorama is turned towards us by the western end, so that all five of its peaks are lined up in one line: Western(4350 m), Second Western(4420 m), Central(4430 m), home(4460 m) and Eastern(4400 m). The massif ends in the Tyutyu-Su gorge (left in the picture) by the Northern Wall with routes up to category 6A.

To the right of Tyutyu is located Jailik(4533 m), the highest peak of the Adyrsu ridge and, note, the third highest in the Baksan valley and Elbrus region, after Elbrus (5642 m) and Ushba (4710 m). On the right, from behind Dzhailyk, peeps Chegem(4351 m), famous for its intricate rock walls up to category 6A. Near Chegem, they usually drive through the Chegem gorge, located between the Baksan and Bezengi gorges parallel to the first.

In the foreground, in the center, is the Sullukol glacier. You can also see the Tyutyu-Dzhailyk (3A) passes in the picture, it is between the Dzhailik and Tyutyu-Bashi peaks, and Kullumkol (1B), between the Tyutyu-Bashi peaks and Kullumkol(4055 m), the latter is visible under Dzhailik against its background. All of them are marked in the general panorama.

b) Koshtantau and Dykhtau.

In the picture on the left before us Koshtantau(5152 m), or simply Koshtan. This is the peak of the "technical Caucasus" - the highest mountain in the Caucasus with a route of the sixth category of difficulty, 6A on the left side of the central buttress of the Northern Wall. The route was first completed in 1961 by a team of Baumanians (MVTU, Moscow, head Arnold Simonik), who dedicated it to the flight of German Titov, "cosmonaut number two". Sixes are not classified on a slightly higher peak in Dykhtau. Traverse Dykhtau-Koshtan used to be a "six", but at times he was undressed. The traverse Koshtan-Dykh with the ascent to Koshtan along 6A is completely illogical, and there are no "sixes" to the roof of the Caucasus - Elbrus, if not to talk about the ascent to the top after passing the Kukurtlu wall - which, you see, is also an illogical option.

On the left to Koshtan along the Northern ridge there is a “British” ridge 4B (G. Wuley, 1889), this is the easiest way to the top. (The peak in the GKH north of Shchurovsky peak is named after Wuley. It is curious that Herman Wooley - Hermann Wooley, in some sources Woolley - came to mountaineering, being already a football player and boxer). In the lower part of the ridge, a characteristic hump is visible - an ice gendarme. The lower, most difficult part of the route - the ascent from the Mizhirgi glacier to the Northern ridge of Koshtan - is hidden behind the peak Panoramic(4176 m), which is in the spur Ulluausa(4682 m). The approaches to Koshtan from this side are extremely dreary, you have to go through all the steps of the Mizhirgi icefall, of which there are three only before the nights "3900", and there is also a zone of cracks located above. The first two steps pass along the moraine and then over the ice, adhering to the left (along the course) side of the glacier, and the third one bypasses along the talus on the left and go to overnight stays "3900", the highest in the region.

In the foreground of the image is an array Adyrsubashi(4370 m). To the left, to the Golubev pass (2A, 3764 m), the North-Eastern ridge with many gendarmes stretches from it. The ascent to Adyrsubashi along this ridge is a very long "five A". The Golubev pass itself was left behind the scenes, it is located in a depression between the peaks of Adyrsubashi and Orubashi and connects the upper reaches of Adyrsu and Chegem, serving faithfully as one of the popular tourist routes.

Adyrsubashi is the nodal peak of the Adyr ridge. Its western spur asserts itself as peaks Chemist(4087 m), Ozernaya(4080 m), Moscow's comsomolets(3925 m) and Triangle(3830 m), behind this summit - descent towards the alpine camp "Ullutau". The Khimik and Ozernaya peaks are two snowy ridges with outcrops of rocks, in the picture they are to the left and below Adyrsubasha. A small glacier Azot flows from Ozernaya (to the right of Khimik and closer to us) into the Kullumkol valley (to the left). This "chemical" name he received from the name of the alpine camp, which operated (since 1936) from the same name DSO of workers in the chemical industry. In 1939, there were eight (!) Alpine camps in the Adyrsu gorge. The fate of "Azot" was the most successful, now it is the alpine camp "Ullutau".

To the north-west of the Ozernaya peak in our direction, bordering the Azot glacier, a spur departs, in which the peak can be traced Panoramic, he's a peak Winter(3466 m), which received such a name in the everyday life of the alpine camp "Ullutau" as an object of low ascents during the winter camp shifts. Another ridge branch of the Ozernaya peak (to the right in the image) leads to the Moskovsky Komsomolets peak, the peak of which falls exactly on the right slice of this fragment. In the background is an array Mizhirgi with distinguishable Eastern summit (4927 m). Western Mizhirgi(5025 m) and the Second Western Mizhirgi, better known as the peak Borovikova(4888 m), are almost indistinguishable in the ridge going from the Eastern Mizhirga to Dykhtau.

On the right picture before us is an array Dykhtau(5205 m), or simply Dykh. In the foreground, near the left slice of the fragment, there is Moskovsky Komsomolets Peak, from which the crest of the ridge stretches to the low Triangle Peak at the bottom in the center of the frame (both peaks were mentioned above in the commentary on Koshtantau). In the distance there are two peaks, often attributed to the Chegem region: a huge Tichtengen(4618 m), standing in the GKH between the peaks of Ortokara and Kitlod, and - a little closer, against its background - the summit facing us with a snowy slope Bodorka(4233 m), also located in the GKH.

c) Bezengi wall.


In this fragment, approximately in profile, the entire Bezengi wall is visible, stretching out in an arc from Shkhara to Lyalver. This unconventional perspective may baffle even experienced experts in the area, it painfully "successfully" merges with the Bezengi wall of Gestola.

On the left of the picture, you can see the long NE-ridge of the "classic" ascent on Shkhara(5069 m) along 5A - the route of D. Kokkin (J.G. Cockin, 1888). For the first time it was passed by the British-Swiss troika U. Almer, J. Cockin, C. Roth as part of the expedition of the British Royal Geographical Society under the direction of Douglas Freshfield. The photographer for this and subsequent expeditions of the 1890s was Vitorio Sella, who received the Cross of St. Anne from Nicholas II for his photographs of the Caucasus mountains. The glacier and Sella peak (4329 m) are named after him, which is on the way to the Mizhirga peak in the upper reaches of the eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier. In terms of technical complexity, the Kokkin route to Shkhara is unlikely to pull even by 2B, but it is dangerous because it relaxes, although there is practically nowhere to reliably insure itself on a long snow ridge with cornices in one direction or the other, and there have been cases of breakdown of whole ligaments. In some sources (for example, A.F. Naumov, "Chegem-Adyrsu") the route is categorized as 4B. The category can be raised to the fifth, wishing to reduce the flow of climbers by cutting off those whom the KSS Bezengi is officially releasing into the "four", but not yet on the "five". Kokkin's route is used as a "Crab": rocky outcrops resemble a crab with pincers lowered down. This crab (in the panorama it is not readable) is clearly distinguishable from the side of Jangi-kosha in the lower part of the ridge, above the "pillow".

The ice gendarme and the Eastern summit of Shkhara are clearly visible on the ridge. There are no classified routes to it, it is almost walked on the way to Main peak Shkhara. From Eastern Shkhara, the GKH leaves us to the southeast, even closer to the south, and passes through the peak Ushguli(4632 m), also known as Southeast Shkhara. The peak is named after the ancient village of Ushguli. Located in the Svan valley at an altitude of 2200 m, it is considered the highest mountainous European settlement of permanent residence (i.e. minus ski resorts and weather stations). There are several "fives" to the top of Ushguli from the Georgian side, as well as an extra-long 2A, the technical simplicity of which is compensated by the length of the approaches: two days from the Bezengi alpine camp in our country or from the Ailama alpine camp in Svaneti.

The most beautiful and logical route to Shkhara is, perhaps, the "Austrian" 5B Tomasek-Muller (1930) - a head-on climb from the Bezengi glacier along the Northern ridge (in the picture it is at the border of light and shadow). In the days of the Stalinist USSR, foreign expeditions in our mountains should not have been, however, a small diaspora of Austrian communists in the early 1930s found refuge with us and, judging by the records of its route achievements, did not waste time in vain (look at the Caucasian routes at your leisure of that period with German surnames).

Inconspicuous peak Western Shkhara(5057 m) is worthy of mention that only two routes go to it from the north (Anatoly Blankovsky, 1980 and Yury Razumov, 1981), both of which are very strong and objectively dangerous, rarely visited "six". They appeared in the early 1980s, thanks to progress in ice equipment - first of all, the appearance in the USSR of platform crampons for ice and ice augers (previously they were insured with ice hooks-carrots, which had to be hammered into the ice for a long time).

To the right of Western Shkhara, the ridge of the Bezengi wall gradually descends towards a small rocky summit of Shota Rustaveli peak (4860 m), hidden behind a peak closer to us Gestola(4860 m). The Georgians first ascended Rustaveli Peak in 1937, from the south along route 4A. Recently, it has been frequently visited from the north, since a relatively safe "Laletin board" - a monotonous ice route, passed in 1983 by the St. Petersburg team of A. Laletin, leads to the depression of the Wall at the peak. In the full-time class of the Russian Mountaineering Championship in 1995, the twos leaving at night managed to slip this route to the very top by 10 o'clock in the morning!

Even more to the left in the panorama, you can see the Dzhangi-Tau massif half-turned: Dzhangi East(5038 m), home(5058 m) and Western(5054 m). The route to the Eastern Dzhangi along the NE ridge is the easiest on the Bezengi Wall, only the routes to the extreme mountains of the Wall, Shkhara (technically easy 5A) and Gestola (4A with an ascent through peak 4310) are easier. In addition, the NE ridge (buttress) of Eastern Dzhangi is objectively the least dangerous option for climbing the Wall from the north, and it is often used as a descent route after climbing the Dzhangi massif (including the Main Dzhangi), Western Shkhara or Rustaveli peak. Eastern Dzhangi, like Shkhara, was printed in 1888 by Kokkin's group.

To get the Bezengi Star badge, it is not necessary to climb the Main Dzhangi (the only route to it from the north is dangerous with ice collapses 5A), any Dzhangi peak is enough - first of all, the simpler and safer Eastern one. There are no classified routes to Western Dzhangi from the north (except perhaps within the traverse of the Wall), and they are unlikely to appear soon: a beautiful and logical line to this peak from this side is not visible, but objectively dangerous ice discharges are visible. But from the Georgian side, two 5Bs are classified to Western Dzhangi. I wonder when they went last? ..

Approximately the same ice "gardens" looks from the north and Katyn(4974 m), from which the huge and flat Katyn plateau extends to Gestola. Katyn was also first passed in 1888 by the participants of the British expedition, but the simplest route to it from the north - 4B hp (G. Holder, 1888) - is objectively more dangerous and less beautiful than the NE ridge of Dzhangi of the same category of difficulty.

The GKH line runs along the edge of the Bezengi wall through the Shkhara and Dzhangi, Katyn, Gestola and Lyalver massifs, and a long ridge extending from Gestola to the southwest (in the picture to the right) and partially hiding the Katyn plateau leads to the peak located in Georgia Tetnuld(4853 m). In this fragment of the panorama it is not visible (it is to the right), but in the general panorama it is. In the 1990s, the Georgians brought a metal cross to the top of Tetnulda with a characteristic shape, like on the Georgian flag. The easiest way to go Gestolu(4860 m) from the north is 3B across the peak Lyalver(4350 m), with an ascent to Lyalver along the technically simple 2B and then a simple traverse over peak 4310 and the shoulder of Gestola. This route (taken for the first time already in 1903) is categorized as 3B, perhaps solely for its height and length. There is an option to shorten this Chinese campaign - to cut the path to peak 4310 by ascending it not through Lyalver, but head-on from the western branch of the Bezengi glacier. This route to Gestola is categorized as 4A (A. Germogenov, 1932), although there are no technical difficulties on it even at 3A (carefully in the upper part - destroyed rocks).

The story with the name of the spike in the ridge of the Bezengi wall to the west of the shoulder of Gestola is quite confusing. This slight rise in the ridge previously "passed" as peak 4310 or Bezymyanny peak... The last name haunted the renaming activists, and in the 1990s, at this peak, two plaques were hoisted in the neighborhood, one in the statement Yesenin peak, the other is the peak of the 50th anniversary of the KBR... The "jubilee" version of the name, it seems, sounded more weighty than the poetic impulse of Yesenin's admirers, because the plate "50 years of KBR" was the result of a massive ascent of 2B through Lyalver with the support of the authorities from Nalchik. But in datasheets, this tip is usually still referred to as "4310". It is clearer: whatever you call it, the height will not change :)

Peak 4310 separates two passes in the Bezengi wall, Čiurlionis East and West. The enlarged fragment of the panorama shows Čiurlionis Vostochny, it is between the peak 4310 and the Gestola shoulder. Vertex Bashil(4257 m) - in the picture with Lyalver in the background - is located to the west of the Bezengi region and belongs to the Chegem gorge region.

A few words about the height of the peaks of the Bezengi wall and her highest point.

All sources agree that Shkhara is the highest point of the Wall. But they determine the heights of the Bezengi peaks in different ways. So, for Shkhara Glavnaya one can find not only the traditional value of 5068 m, but also the more "prestigious" 5203 m, and for Dzhanga Glavnaya - the values ​​of 5085, 5074 and 5058 m (Lyapin's map). We rely on the data of the General Staff as more homogeneous (at least within a single region) and for the highest points Shkhary and Jungi take values, respectively, 5069 m(5068.8 on the General Staff) and 5058 m... Direct visual assessments also favor Shkhara. When looking at the Bezengi wall from the Northern massif, as well as when looking at Shkhara from Dzhangi (and vice versa), Shkhara always gives the impression of the dominant peak of the Wall.

Finally, oh curvature of the "arc" of the Bezeghian Wall visible in the picture. The visual impression of its large curvature in the Shkhara - Gestola section is illusory, it is a pure effect of a large magnification of the image, in which the picture of a bunch of distant objects is stretched in azimuth, but does not move in depth. So it seems that the slender ridge visible from the end is wagging its sides. With regard to this image: if we recalculate the VISIBLE angular distance between Shkhara Glavnaya and Katyn (or Dzhangi Zapadnaya) in kilometers, then it will turn out to be six times (!) LESS than the real distance from Shkhara Glavnaya to Gestola, but it seems that they are approximately the same.

d) Svaneti mountains and Dzhantugan pass.

The protagonists of this fragment are dominant Svetgar(4117 m) and, to the right, modest Marianne(3584 m), completing the Svetgar ridge stretching from the east (on the left) in a pair of two. In the soft evening light of the sun, their rocky slopes amaze with a variety of colors. The peaks lined up behind Marianne ridge Asmashi, which are identified very uncertainly at a given end view. This entire mountain complex would be of great interest to mountain tourists and climbers, if it were open to the public from the Russian side. Suffice it to say that most of the region's passes - Asmashi, Marianna, Svetgar, Tot - are of category 3A.

A few words about the Dzhantugan plateau and the Dzhantugan pass (3483 m, tourist 2B), which dominate the middle plan of the fragment. The Dzhantugan plateau is one of the western branches of the huge Lekzyr (Lekziri) glacial complex, the largest with south side GKH. It is formed by a system of glaciers framing the GKH in the section from the Kashkatash pass in the west to the area of ​​the Bashiltau peak in the upper reaches of the Chegem gorge in the east. These glaciers adjoin the passes connecting the regions of Adylsu, Adyrsu and Chegem with Svaneti. The Dzhantugan plateau resembles an apple rotting from the inside: its entire interior is interrupted by wide bottomless cracks, and only the narrow outer rim is edible. Any reasonable movement on the line Lekzyr - Bashkara - Dzhantugan - Aristov rocks - Gumachi - Chegettau - Latsga is possible only near the slopes of these peaks.

The glacier on takeoff to the Dzhantugan pass is severely ruptured, but in last years there is a path of a simple bypass of the bergs and cracks, leading to the pass very close to the end slope of the Aristov rocks (red spots in the picture). The pass itself is somewhat puzzling: you do not see an obvious bend in any direction, everything is flat, and only after walking 50-70 meters to the south and burying in the faults, you understand that there is a general decline in the direction of Georgia. (At the same time, the red and white border stick sticks out only twenty meters above the cliff in our, northern side.) Near the top of Gumachi there is another pass leading to the plateau - Eastern Dzhantugan, aka False Gumachi (3580 m, tourist 2B) ... The ascent to it from the side of the Adyl-su gorge is not more difficult than 1B, but to descend from it to Svaneti (along the tricky icefall, which determines the category of both passes), you have to bypass the plateau on the right and, therefore, follow the Dzhantugan pass. So for routes from Adyl-su to Svaneti, that is clearly preferable. There is also a variant of ascent to the Dzhantugan plateau in the middle between these two passes, through the central depression in the Aristov Rocks chain.

Aristov Rocks named to commemorate Oleg Dmitrievich Aristove, which stood at the origins of Soviet mountaineering. In 1935, his group was one of the first to "huddle" the peaks over the Dzhantugan plateau at the most simple ways and made several first ascents - Dzhantugan along 2A, Gadyl along 3A, traverse Gadyl-Bashkar (4A). That summer, the 1st All-Union Alpiniad of Trade Unions worked in the Adyl-Su gorge, and 24-year-old Aristov ran the School of Instructors there. Oleg died at the peak of Communism on September 13, 1937. He was appointed the leader of the assault group, which had the order to bring the bust of Stalin to the peak of Communism (then - the peak of Stalin). Oleg walked with frostbitten feet and slipped, having already fallen off at the very top.

The ascent to the Dzhantugan plateau from the Adyl-Su side passes along the Dzhankuat glacier, which was chosen by glaciologists to study the processes occurring in valley glaciers. The thickness of this typical valley glacier is 40-50 meters in icefalls and 70-100 meters in flat areas. Like other glaciers in the Caucasus, Djankuat has been rapidly retreating in recent decades. At its end, in a clearing with a seductive name with a seductive name “Green Hotel”, there are houses of the Glaciological Station of Moscow State University. In early June, a backcountry camp is sometimes held here, aimed at beginners and advanced riders. In summer, students come to the station. In winter, the houses are convenient to use for overnight stays, they save from the winds from the side of the pass, which develop agility while descending into the wide flat part of the gorge below the Djankuat glacier.

From the Dzhantugan plateau, it is convenient to make radial ascents to the surrounding peaks. Eastward they are simple - to the peaks Gumachi(3826 m) by 1B (on foot) and Chegettau(4049 m) 2B. This deuce-B is the oldest route of the region and the entire Elbrus region (excluding Elbrus itself) - Douglas Freshfield, 1888. In the western direction from the Dzhantugan plateau, ascents to Dzhantugan by 2A and 3A are convenient, as well as to Bashkara by 3B, Gadyl by 3A and Lekzyr Dzhantugan (1B).

Peak Jantugan(4012 m) at the right edge of a fragment of the panorama, a beautiful and simple route 2A leads to it from the pass. Jan is facing us here with its northern side, on which three triples-B are classified, one of them (along the NE edge) is clearly visible - this is an edge casting a shadow. Bypassing the peak from the side of the plateau, you can climb the jumper between it and its western neighbor, the peak of Bashkar. Near this jumper, route 3A to Dzhan begins (along the southwest ridge), and a beautiful ridge route 3B leads to Bashkara.

The Bashkar-Gadyl massif borders the Dzhantugan plateau from the west. From the plateau, you can clearly see that the peaks Bashkara(4162 m) and Gadyl(4120 m) - the ends of one massif. The latter is simply turned to Svaneti with the "Gadyl" side, and to Balkaria with the "Bashkarsk" side, which is why he received from the respective observers different names... Traverse Bashkara-Gadyl (4A) is one of the oldest routes in the region (K. Egger, 1914). In a panoramic photo from Kezgen, the Gadyl peak is not visible, it is closed by Bashkara, which in all its severity is shown in an enlarged fragment (photo on the left). Bashkara ends in the direction of the glacier of the same name with its northern wall, along which two routes 6A pass, which are technically the most difficult in Adyl-Su. Snow "pillow" to the right of Bashkara - Pobeda pass, one of the most difficult in the region (3B according to tourist classification). The Bashkara pass, which is between Bashkara and Dzhantugan, is much easier. WITH northern slopes Bashkars, the Bashkar glacier descends, from the melting of which the Bashkar lake was formed, threatening a breakthrough and mudflow down the Adylsu gorge.

e) from the Kashkatash pass to Ushba.

The same section with the designations of peaks, passes and glaciers.


(Recall that the GKKh peaks are marked with solid red circles, the GKKh passes are marked with red crosses).

From left to right:

Vertex 14 - Ullucara(4302 m), located in the GKH, is cut off by a wall of complexity 5B to the upper reaches of the Kashkatash glacier.
Peak 1 with Ullukara in the background - the peak Germogenova(3993 m) in the spur of Ullukara. From the side of the middle course of the Kashkatash glacier, a ridge stretches to the top, along which route 2B passes - one of the longest "two B" in the region (along with the "two B" to the Eastern Donguzorun along the ridge of the GKH). Groups of beginners usually walk this route with an overnight stay.
Pass 25 - Kashkatash, 3A * - is located in the GKH between the peaks of Ullucara and Free Spain.
Glacier 10 - Kashkatash glacier, belonging to the Adylsu basin, the tributary flows into the opposite of the lower houses of the Dzhantugan alpine camp.
Peak 15 - Peak Free Spain(4200 m), located in the GKH. The route to the top along the eastern ridge from the pass - category 4A. Ice route 4B along the wall to the left of the rocky tower (Aleksey Osipov companions, 1995) is recommended as a winter option, it is rocky in the warm season. Several "fives B" have been laid along the rocky tower. The rocky gendarme in the eastern ridge is sometimes called Gogol's peak, and the gendarme in the western ridge is called Lermontov's peak (I remember the Yesenin peak, mentioned in the description of Bezenga near Lyalver peak). In mountaineering terms, these are still gendarmes, they are not led independent routes, but topologically "Lermontov's gendarme" - whatever one may say, this is the nodal top of the GKH. The Dollakor ridge branches off from it, which leads south to Svaneti and separates the Lekzyr and Chalaat glaciers there.
Vertex 16 - Bzhedukh(4270 m), located in the GKH. The snowy slopes of the jumper between the peaks of Free Spain and Bzhedukh represent the simplest, but dangerous, landslide path of descent from Free Spain, commonly referred to as "Koryto".
Glacier 11 - Bzhedukh, belongs to the Shkhelda basin.
Pass 26 - Double, 3A - is located in the GKH between the peak of the Caucasus Vostochny and the peak of Bzhedukh.
Peak 17 - Peak Caucasus East(4163 m), the nodal summit of the GKH. Here the Main ridge turns in the direction away from us, towards the peaks of Vulei and Shchurovsky, and the remaining peaks of the Caucasus are already in its spur, which descends into the Shkhelda valley.
Pass 27 - Saddle of the Caucasus, 3A - is located in the spur of the GKH between the peaks of the Caucasus, Glavny and Vostochny.
Peak 3 - Peak Caucasus Western, located in the spur of the GKH.
Pass 28 - Krenkel, 3A - is located in the spur of the GKKH between the peaks of the Caucasus West and Glavny.
Peak 4 - Peak Caucasus Chief(4037 m), located in the spur of the GKH.

The ridge of peaks of the GKKh closes from us the upper reaches of the Chalaat glaciers, with steep icefalls dropping into Svaneti. The peaks surrounding them are Free Spain (4200 m), Bzhedukh (4280 m), Eastern Caucasus (4163 m), a peak hidden behind it Wooley(4055 m, we have already spoken about Herman Vulei in connection with his routes to Bezengi), peak Shchurovsky(4277 m, V. A. Shchurovsky - a famous Moscow doctor who treated Chekhov and Tolstoy, and “in combination” a mountain traveler who presented a number of tourist routes in the Western Caucasus to the general public), Chatyn West(4347 m), Chatyn Chief(4412 m) and Malaya Ushba(4320 m).

A short but powerful spur with the Chatyn Glavniy peak protrudes from Western Chatyn to Svaneti. It separates two branches of the Chalaat glacier, breaking off to the Chatyn plateau - the southern circus of the main, eastern branch of the glacier - with its famous Northern wall with solid "sixes". Approach from Russia to the Chatyn plateau under the routes to the North face of Chatyn - up the Shkhelda gorge through the South Chatyn pass, aka Chatyn Lozhny (2B). (For more on this pass, see Catalog passes and peaks of Oleg Fomichev, a link to him at the end of the article is among other useful links.) From the Georgian side, it is difficult to enter the Chatyn plateau without a very strong desire, for this you need to either cross the additional Dalla-Kora pass in the southern spurs of the GKH, or go up through the difficult icefalls of the Chalaat glacier, which is extremely problematic even with equipment.

Near Malaya Ushba, an even more impressive short spur with the pearl of the Caucasus - the Ushba massif and its peaks departs from the GKH to Svaneti North Ushba(4694 m) and South Ushba(4710 m).

The main passes of the GKH in this node:
Pass 29 - Chalaat, 3B - between the peaks Chatyn Zapadny and Malaya Ushba, the Akademika Aleksandrov pass is projected onto the same pass, 3B - between Chatyn and Shchurovsky peak
Pass 30 - Ushbinsky, 3A - between the Ushba and Shkhelda massifs.

f) Shkhelda array.

Peak heights Shkheldinsky massif(from left to right):

Eastern- 4368 m
Central- 4238 m
peak Aristova- 4229 m
peak The science- 4159 m
2nd Western- 4231 m
Western- 3976 m

By the way, in 1974 the titanic traverse of Shkhelda (all peaks) - Ushba - Mazeri (G. Agranovsky, A. Vezner, V. Gritsenko and Y. Ustinov, 14.07-5.08 1974) was passed. The compulsory set of traverse for all the peaks of Shkhelda includes five of the six named above: the Western Shkhelda falls, located on the distant periphery, in the isthmus already on the approaches to the peak of Trade Unions.
The rest of the tops of the Shkhelda massif are considered gendarmes. The gendarme Rooster stands out - a tall rocky phallus next to East tower Shkheldy.

g) Malaya Shkhelda area.

Not particularly noticeable, but interesting for its topology and rich in surrounding views, the mountain knot around Malaya Shkhelda(4012 m). GKH enters the frame from the left from the side of the peak adjacent to the Shkhelda Trade unions(3957 m) and, advancing with a slight south bank to the west through the lowering of the Bivachny pass (3820 m, 2B *), climbs the peak Sportsman(3961 m, not to be confused with the Fizkulturnik Day peak, which is in the Adyl-Su ridge), turns from it by 90 degrees and by a north-western course, bypassing the Middle Pass (3910 m), rises to the summit of M. Shkhelda, the highest point of the region. Further, almost without changing the course, the GKH passes along the double rocky ridge Akhsu (3916 m), which is visible from the edge from Kezgen and appears as an end snow slope with an easily recognizable berg at the base. Going down this slope (route 2A), the GKH turns strictly to the west and, skipping the lane. Akhsu (2A, 3764 m), enters a low and completely simple peak when approaching from either side Yusengi Uzlovaya(3846 m). Here the GKH says goodbye to us and goes beyond the right shot towards the Becho pass, and in the northeastern direction (to the left and towards us) the Yusengi ridge departs from Uzlovaya. It leads more than a kilometer with a wide and impeccably flat snow ridge (the summit of the Akhsu glacier), while imperceptibly slips over the area of ​​the Rodina pass (2A, 3805 m) and reaches its highest point at the summit Yusengi(3870). Then he goes down to the Baksan valley (in the picture along the ridge in our direction).

Both peaks of Yusenga and the Rodina pass give gorgeous views towards Elbrus and Donguz, no other observation point will give you a larger view of the Elbrus-Donguz expanse. The summit of Malaya Shkhelda is an excellent point of view of the entire adjacent Georgian sector, and Peak Fizkulturnik gives an amazing close view of the Shkhelda - Ushba - Mazeri link and the Ushba glacier in the pit between them.

Ascent on foot to the Peak Fizkulturnik from the lane. Medium - it takes 6-8 minutes. Ascent from there to the top of Malaya Shkhelda - opposite 2A along old fragile rocks. The rocky traverse M. Shkhelda - Akhsu is already classified as 2B, and the longer traverse in the other direction - M. Shkhelda - Peak Fizkulturnik - Peak Trade Union - as 3A.

The peaks indicated in the picture form a chain above the circus of the Akhsu glacier, which is open (not covered by moraine sediments) along its entire course from the source to the place where it flows into the Shkhelda glacier. There is no longer section of the open glacier in the gorges from Adyrsu to Azau.

h) Donguzorun and Nakra massif.


When you look at the Donguzorun massif from Cover(4269 m) from Terskol, you wonder: why was this Nakra called Nakra and even called, if it is nothing more than an appendage of the really serious and defining mountain Donguzorun? When you stand in the upper reaches of the Yusengi gorge and look up at the monumental eastern wall of Donguz under the age-old glacial shell, you are even more surprised: and where is Nakra in general and where is she, this dependent baby? But when you look at the Donguz massif from Kezgen, the global picture becomes clear. The western summit of Donguz is the center of a regular three-pointed star. From it to the southeast (to the left in the picture) stretches the Donguz ridge, it is he who makes up the main part of the complex - the Donguzorun massif itself with its three adjacent peaks: Donguzorun East(4442 m), Main(4454 m) and West(4429 m). From the western peak, the northeastern spur of Donguz descends directly towards us, which at an intermediate peak Intercosmos(3731 m, in the photo from Kezgen it is a flat snow-covered pyramid) is divided into two branches, a very short northern the snow bowl of the western Kogutai circus). In this branch above the glacial circus, two similar triangular peaks are clearly visible - Big Kogutai(3819 m), it is to the left, and Small Kogutai(3732 m). The Main Ridge itself from the western peak of Donguz goes to the west (to the right), immediately runs into the Nakry tower and then gracefully descends to the hospitable Donguzorun pass (1A, 2302).

And nevertheless, it would be a great injustice - and a factual mistake - to consider Nakra not an independent peak, but just a side appendage of Donguz. The fact is that it is to her, and not to the dominant neighbor, that adjoins Tsalgmyl ridge, which is very long in itself and to which, like a rod, numerous side spurs are attached, filling the vast space encircled by the Inguri River (from the south) and its primary tributaries, the Nakra (from the west) and Dolroy (from the east). Only a small inner area was subdued by Donguzorun - the one that occupies a modest and short Dolra ridge, nestled three kilometers away from the GKH and adjacent to the main peak of Donguz.

The topology of the Donguzorun-Nakra array is interesting. There is a general long and monotonous non-steep ascent from the southern, Georgian side, where the multi-armed Kvish glacier freely spreads (and from where the routes of G. Merzbacher, 1891 and R. Gelbling, 1903 - both 2A ), and then, upon reaching the border ridge line, everything drops abruptly down to Russia, by the eastern and northern walls of the massif, famous for their difficult climbing routes (categories from 4B to 5B). And right after the discharge of the eastern and northern walls of Donguz - greenery and the Cheget-Terskol delights of civilization.

In connection with such an extraordinary topology in the winter of 1989, the following story happened on Donguz. As part of the mountaineering championship on the North Face of Donguzorun (strong route 5B Khergiani), a two climbed from Kiev, but soon after reaching the summit they did not get in touch and disappeared. They had no food (they dropped it on the rise). Winter, February, frost, bad weather. We found them only on the 8th day ... at the Minvod airport (!). ...

i) Elbrus.


To the observer at the top of Kezgen Elbrus addressed to his East peak(5621 m), moreover, as symmetrically as possible in terms of the central centerline and lateral exits. The western peak of the mountain (5642 m) is completely closed by the eastern one.
On the eastern summit, in its right part against the background of the sky, rocks are distinguishable; they border the summit crater with a 20-meter wall. The highest point of the dome is at the southern (left in the picture) edge of the crater. This summit crater is open to the east, in the direction of us, and on a slope half a kilometer below it, a side crater gapes, and below it, the Achkyeryakol lava flow (ALP) stretches further down - a chain of talus rocks of volcanic origin. This stream descends to the ice fields of East Elbrus, giving rise to the rivers Irik and Irikchat.

On the northern (right to the viewer) slope of Elbrus against the background of the sky, two spots of rocky outcrops are visible - at about 4600 and 5100 m. The upper ones are Lenz rocks, named after the expedition member General Emmanuel who reached them: ".. One of the academicians - Mr. Lenz - rose to an altitude of 15200 feet. The total height of Elbrus above the level of the Atlantic Ocean is determined as 16800 feet."(cited). Each of these altitude values ​​was obtained with more than a 10% error, but their ratio suffers from errors much less and with reference to the currently accepted height of Elbrus (5642 m) allows us to estimate the height of the rocks reached by Lenz as 5100 m. rocky outcrops.

A few words about the historic route of Douglas Freshfield to the Eastern Summit of Elbrus (1868). The mountain top route classifier leads Freshfield through Shelter-11, but he followed a different path (described in detail in his best-selling book "Exploration of the Central Caucasus"). The group left the village of Urusbievs (Verkhniy Baksan) and on the first day on horseback moved along the Baksan valley, and on the second day climbed up the Terskol gorge, from where the Elbrus dome appeared for the first time, and reached the bivouac area near the Ice Base. The group reached the summit at three o'clock in the morning. Having stepped onto the glacier, I went in bundles in a direct course to the cone and first reached the height from which the spurs opened towards the distant steppe, and then, already at the beginning of the ascent along the cone, I met the sun. By half past seven, at an altitude of 4800 m, the group reached the rocks of the upper part of the cone and at 10h40m reached the summit in the area of ​​the present obelisk.

“This peak was at the end of a horseshoe-shaped ridge, crowned with three elevations and framing a snowy plateau on three sides, open to the east. We walked - or rather even ran - along the ridge to the very end, passing two significant drops and visiting all three peaks. … [At the same time] we naturally looked out for where the second peak was, but it was nowhere to be found. It seemed to us that the western slope drops abruptly down to Karachay and that there were no dense clouds that could hide the top of about the same height as ours. But we were wrong: the western, slightly higher peak was completely hidden by the haze ... It must be remembered that before this ascent we had never seen Elbrus and, therefore, had only a vague idea of ​​the structure of the mountain. "


Having built a "stone man" on the top, the group at the beginning of the twelfth began the descent along the ascent path, in the evening went down to the valley and the next day returned to the Urusbievs, where they were greeted with greetings and refreshments.
“We got caught in the crossfire of questions about how there, at the top, and we had to report with sorrow that we did not see a giant rooster there, which lives in the sky and greets the sunrise with a shout and flapping its wings, and greets uninvited guests with its beak and claws, wanting to protect the treasure from people. "

Routes are routes, but in the case of Elbrus, one cannot remain silent about his own biography. Why is the Main Caucasian ridge like the main one, and its iconic peaks - Elbrus and Kazbek - somewhere on the side? Because they are volcanoes. In the Greater Caucasus, volcanism is associated with crushing of the earth's crust at a late stage of mountain building. Volcano Elbrus was formed in the Lateral Ridge at the watershed of the Malka, Baksan and Kuban rivers, and it is confined to the intersection of the longitudinal Tyrnyauz fault zone and the transverse Elbrus fault. In the southwestern part of the mountain, the remains of an ancient crater have been preserved in the form of the Khotutau-Azau rocks. Nowadays, a two-headed volcano is planted on the upper part of an ancient crater - a high-rise pedestal (basement) of ancient granite rocks and crystalline schists.

Elbrus as a volcano was born about 2 million years ago. All the mountains of this region then rose in low hills, and powerful eruptions gas-rich magma formed first volcanic cone(its remains in the area of ​​the Irikchat pass). After many hundreds of thousands of years the volcano started working again- its power is indicated by an almost kilometer cliff Kukurtlu... The section of this wall clearly shows how layers of volcanic bombs, slag, tuff and ash alternate with solidified lava flows. Explosive eruptions and outpourings of thick and viscous lavas alternated many times, and when the volcano began to subside, hot gases and solutions still penetrated through the volcanic rocks for a long time. Due to this, layers of sulfur were formed, which are now turning yellow against the dark red background of the Kukurtlu cliffs.
Now the wall routes to Kukurtlu are considered one of the most difficult in the Caucasus.

Third phase of activity volcano, about 200 thousand years ago, was restrained. The outpouring of lava over and over again descended into the Baksan valley. The slowly cooling lava shrank in volume and cracked, and wonderful columnar structures were formed in it, which we see on the walls rising above the road from the village. Terskol to the observatory, as well as forming the left side of the gloomy gorge Azau.

Fourth phase of activity volcano - 60-70 thousand years ago - was extremely stormy. The explosions knocked out a plug of frozen ancient rocks from the volcano's mouth, and volcanic material spread for tens of kilometers (found near Tyrnyauz, in the Chegem valley). At this time, Western peak Elbrus. The eruptions formed a loose mass of volcanic bombs, tuffs and other products, mainly on the western and northern slopes. When the energy of the volcano decreased, the outpouring of lava began - now to the upper reaches of the ancient valley of Malka, and not to Baksan.

Elbrus region from space - on Google maps.Maps:

Topology of the Western and Eastern peaks of Elbrus close-up.
The highest point of the Eastern Summit is visible, located in the southern part of the summit dome. Being on the Eastern Summit, it is not always obvious where the highest point is ...

The Kezgen campaign of 2007, in which the photographic materials for PANORAMA-1 were obtained, is described in the second part of Igor Pasha's article .. The photographic materials themselves are also presented there, in a much larger volume ..

We will also provide a number of basic links on the topic of the publication:

http://caucatalog.narod.ru- Base of passes, peaks, valleys, glaciers and other objects of the Caucasus with photographs (more than 2200 objects and 7400 photographs as of January 2010), reports on mountain trips. The author of the caucatalog website is Mikhail Golubev (Moscow).

The authors would be grateful for constructive comments, pointing out factual inaccuracies and providing additional information. All this will be taken into account with gratitude when updating the article!

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    The Achishkho mountain range is the closest and most picturesque ridge to Krasnaya Polyana. The highest mountain - Achishkho has a height of 2391 meters above sea level. Interesting fact about the name of the ridge: "Achishkho" in translation from Abkhaz means "horse". This is confirmed by the view from below, from the Polyana to the ridge. If you look closely, you can see the outline of a horse. The most popular hiking route passes through a special place located on the slope of a mountain, approximately 1800 meters above sea level, where from the 30s to 90s there was a meteorological station.

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    The Aibga mountain range is located on the territory of Sochi national park, on the eastern side of Krasnaya Polyana. The ridge is more than 20 kilometers long and consists of four highest points, called peaks. The most popular peak mountain among tourists is the Black Pyramid, 2375 meters above sea level. It has an unusual shape, which is why it is especially popular with climbers. In addition, a wonderful, breathtaking landscape opens up from the top of the mountain. Having conquered this mountain, you will see the valley of the Mzymta river, the Chugush and Pseashkho peaks.

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    One of the most beautiful resort places our country is Dombay. The main attractions of this city are its scenic spots... The Mussa - Achitara ridge is considered the most picturesque ridge in this part of the Caucasus. In order to appreciate all the beauty that surrounds the guests of the resort, you need to climb the mountainside by cable car. From this place, a wonderful picturesque view of the peaks and glaciers of the Main ridge, the Teberda and Gonachkhiri valleys opens up.

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    Ine Peak is located near the place where the northern Dzhugurlutchat glacier originates. The name of the mountain is translated as "Igla", the mountain got its name because of its pointed top, such an unusual view for the mountains attracts many tourists from all over the world. Top of Ine Peak all year round is under the snow, and although its sheer cliffs are relatively difficult to climb, the top of Ine Peak is quite a popular destination for climbers. The height of the "needle" reaches 3455 meters, which is about 600 meters below the high mountain Caucasian Dividing Range. It is best to view the mountain from the site of the Mussa-Achi-Tara mountain, it is 400 meters lower than the Ine peak, but for that it can be reached by a funicular.

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    In the North Caucasus, among the Dombai glade, several east of the mountain The back (Small) Belalakai has a peak called Sufruju. The height of the mountain is 3871 m. A wide depression divides the massif into two uniform parts - the South and the North. Both peaks are clearly visible from the Musat-Cheri ski mountain. The southern part was named the Tooth of Sufruju, which means "Tiger's Fang". The massif stretches for 3600 m and acts as the main attraction of the mountain Dombai.

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    Belalakay is a mountain located next to the village in Dombay, since the village is a resort, the mountain has become a symbol of this village and attracts a lot of tourists. Its height is 3861 meters. Although the height of this mountain is 200 meters lower than that of the highest in Abkhazia, it is no less an attraction. Belalakay owes its fame to quartz. Most of the mountain consists of dark soil and dark granite, but due to centuries of geological processes on the mountain there are deposits of quartz. It is this quartz that has created the white stripes that adorn the top of this mountain, the white stripes of Belalakay are especially visible in late summer. Because of the beauty of the local landscapes, the mountain was mentioned more than once in songs and poems.

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    Dzhuguturluchat is a relatively small massif, in the large Caucasian ridge. The mountain range has risen to a height of 3921 meters, which is only 120 meters less than the most high point on the Caucasian ridge. In the highest regions of the mountain range, there are herds of tours, it was they who gave these mountains the name "Dzhugurluchat" - which translates as: "herd of tours". Mountain range originates from the Dombai plateau, however, the most beautiful places open up from a place called "Mussa-Achi-Tara" that is where most of the tourists gather.

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    Cheget is one of the highest mountains in the Caucasus. Its height reaches about 3770 meters. it popular place for tourism among travelers. From the mountain you can enjoy a view of the highest peak in Europe - Elbrus. Another feature of Mount Cheget is the second line of the cable car, which passes through the area where the snow does not melt throughout the year.There are three lines of the cable car in total. The height of the first reaches about 1600 meters. It is one of the most popular for tourists who come to Cheget to enjoy the view of Elbrus.

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    This mountain, after Elbrus, is the second most popular mountain among climbers. This is because it is also quite high - 4454 meters above sea level.

    You can get to the mountain in several ways by cable car or on foot. Tourists who choose the first way can use the Cheget cable car at the end point, where small cafes are located. The second and more difficult path, which takes several hours, is from the Cheget glade along a path already packed with tourists. However, it is better to set off with an experienced guide, otherwise there is a chance to get lost in the mountains.

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    North Caucasus will captivate many tourists with its beauty and landscapes. Mount Semyonov-Bashi located in the east of the Caucasus Range is no exception. In reality, it is just a ledge 3602 meters above the ground. The mountain was named in honor of the Russian explorer P.P. Semenov-Tyan-Shanskiy. This person was a traveler and was the chairman of the Russian Geographical Society.

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    Mount Chotcha is part of the Caucasian ridge which is famous for its picturesque mountains and rocks. Chotcha, unlike the rest of the mountains, is divided into two parts, as if someone had cut the mountain in the middle into two halves. Unlike mountains that have just a smaller mountain nearby, at first glance you can see that the mountain has one base on which there are two rocks. The rock in the foreground is lower than the back one, it has 3637 meters in height, it is 400 meters lower than the highest mountain of the Caucasian ridge. The second rock is only three meters higher than the first one, in it is 3640 meters at sea level.

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    Mount Erzog is one of the most visited places in the Caucasus range. The Alibek River flows at the foot of the mountain, in addition to the mountain itself, this place has a very beautiful lowland. In the gorge where the river flows, a massive slope descends, it becomes especially beautiful in spring, when the sun illuminates the slope full of bright green vegetation. Mount Erzog is part of the Teberda ridge, the ridge itself encircles a lowland with a river and makes a very strong impression on tourists who have visited it.

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    Mount Sulohat is located in the Dombai region and is one of the largest points of the Caucasian ridge. The height of the mountain is 3439 meters, which is about 600 meters lower than the largest mountain on the Caucasian ridge. Mount Sulohat is surrounded by many legends, the most popular about the origin of the name of the mountain. In ancient times, the foot of the mountain was inhabited by the tribe of Alans. In this tribe lived a girl named Sulohat, she was of extraordinary beauty and courage and was the daughter of the leader of the tribe.

The Caucasus is geographically a region between Europe and Asia, and at the same time between the Caspian, Black and The Azov seas... Includes Caucasus mountains, and located in the adjacent areas of the North Caucasus and South Caucasus. As part of Russian Federation at the moment, the North Caucasus is almost entirely located, excluding small gorges located on the territory of Georgia. Azerbaijan, Armenia and Georgia have divided the South Caucasus among themselves, part of the South Caucasus de facto belongs to Abkhazia and South Ossetia.

  • The Caucasus is historically a transport artery of the Old World, as well as the source of many natural resources, including oil and gas.
  • Caucasus Located right on the border of the subtropical and temperate climatic zones. Mountain ranges Of the Caucasus, being a natural barrier for air masses, prevent the penetration of warm air masses into the Ciscaucasia (to the north), and cold air masses to the south, into the Transcaucasia. The influence of the mountains is very noticeable in winter periods, when in the Transcaucasia and the Ciscaucasia, located several hundred kilometers from each other, the temperature difference reaches several tens of degrees.
  • In the mountainous regions of the Greater and Lesser Caucasus, mountain-forest landscapes prevail. In Transcaucasia, above the subtropical landscapes, these are oak forests with hornbeam, in the middle mountains of the Talysh mountains, these are beech and hornbeam forests. In the west of the Greater and Lesser Caucasus there are coniferous forests - spruce and fir, and in the north of the Central Caucasus and in the Eastern Caucasus pine forests grow. The soils in the Caucasus mountains are mountain-forest brown.
  • The mountainous regions of the Greater and Lesser Caucasus are inhabited by a variety of forest and alpine fauna, including endemic species, such as, for example, the Caucasian black grouse, the West Caucasian and Dagestan turs, the Caucasian snowcock, and the Prometheus mouse. Bear, fox, lynx, and other Central European species of animals are very widespread here. The highlands of Armenia are inhabited by the Asia Minor mountain jerboa, the Asia Minor ground squirrel, etc.
  • The Caucasus is home to a huge variety of flora and fauna, which is distributed only here. There are a little less than 1600 species of flora, 32 species of mammals and 3 species of birds in total endemic representatives.
  • The area of ​​the Caucasus is 145 thousand square kilometers.
  • More than 50 peoples live in the Caucasus. and nationalities.

  • The highest point in Europe and the Russian Federation is Mount Elbrus. The western peak of Elbrus is 5642 meters above sea level, the eastern one is 5621 meters.
  • A man first ascended the summit of Elbrus on July 22, 1829 by the Kabardian Kilar Khashirov, on an expedition led by General Georgy Emanuel. In Pyatigorsk and now in the Park "Flower Garden" there are two commemorative cast-iron plates in honor of that event.

  • At any time of the year, the Elbrus region is of great interest for travelers.
  • The Snow Cave in the Western Caucasus is the third deepest cave in the world, with a depth of 1,753 meters below sea level. This is the hardest cave the former USSR and the most difficult phonetic cave in the world. The total length of galleries and passages is more than 25 kilometers.
  • New Athos Cave (originally - Anakopia Abyss) - largest cave Abkhazia. Near the cave there is the New Athos Monastery and the Temple of Simon the Canaanite.

  • Krubera-Voronya is the deepest cave in the world today, (-2191 m), and is located in the Arabica mountain range in Abkhazia.
  • There is a general idea of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe conflicts in the Caucasus, but today this is a very big delusion.

The nature of the Caucasus - a fascinating video about the flora and fauna of the Caucasus.

The Caucasus Mountains stretch along the southern border of the Russian Plain. This is the largest of mountain structures bordering the Russian Plain in the south. Only the Ciscaucasia and part of the Greater Caucasus (northern slopes) are located within Russia. The borders of Russia with Azerbaijan and Georgia run mainly along the crest of the Main Caucasian ridge.

Ciscaucasia covers a vast area south of the Russian Plain between the Black and Azov Seas in the west and the Caspian in the east. The border of the Russian Plain and Ciscaucasia is the Kuma-Manych depression. At the base of the relief of the Ciscaucasia lies a Paleozoic platform, which is covered with younger sedimentary rocks. The relief of the Ciscaucasia is generally flat. The largest landforms here are the Stavropol Upland, the Caspian Lowland, and the Kuban-Priazovskaya Plain. Ciscaucasia is rich in oil and combustible gas deposits.

In winter and autumn, the entire Ciscaucasia is characterized by an increased atmospheric pressure, so northeastern and easterly winds prevail here. In winter, the Ciscaucasia is dry and windy. In winter, warm air masses from the Atlantic enter the western part of the region. This causes strong thaws, which can be followed by snowfalls and blizzards. Summer in the Ciscaucasia is hot. This area is characterized by different moisture content in the western and eastern parts... The Stavropol Upland serves as a barrier for westerly winds from the Atlantic.

If to the west of the hill the average annual precipitation is 500 mm, on the very hill - 600 mm, then to the east the annual amount decreases to 300-400 mm and below. The largest amount of precipitation falls in June. Such differences lead to the fact that it is in the west of the Ciscaucasia that the main river systems are concentrated, the largest of which is the Kuban. Ciscaucasia is located almost entirely in the steppes with black earth and chestnut soils. They are almost completely plowed up. Sunflower, winter wheat and corn, rice are grown here; horticulture and viticulture are widely developed. This is one of the main granaries of the country (80% of the entire territory of the Ciscaucasia is agricultural land).

The Greater Caucasus Range is a grandiose mountain rise, consisting of numerous ridges and spurs. It stretches from northwest to southeast from the Black to the Caspian Sea. The highest peak of the Caucasus (in Russia) is Mount Elbrus (5642 m). Once upon a time in its place there was the Tethys Ocean, connecting the Black Sea with the Caspian Sea. At the bottom of it, intense magmatic activity took place, part of the magma penetrated into the earth's crust. There was an intensive process of accumulation of rocks of sedimentary origin. All these rocks were crushed into folds and complicated by faults, faults and thrusts. Numerous volcanoes (for example, Elbrus) were active during alpine mountain building, experienced vertical uplift, in which other areas were involved. The result is the modern mountains.

Part of the Greater Caucasus, lying within Russia, is entirely in a temperate climate. Winter and summer temperatures here vary depending on the location of the territory. The territory of the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus warms up best of all. Here, in summer, the average temperature is + 24 ° С, and in winter - from + 1 ° С to 5 ° С. In the high-mountainous regions, summer is cooler (+ 12 ° C) and winter is colder (-12 ° C). The maximum precipitation also falls on Black sea coast Caucasus - 1500 mm per year; near the Caspian coast there are almost 4 times less of them. Such a large amount of precipitation in the west of the Greater Caucasus is explained by the influence of westerly winds, which give precipitation to the windward slopes of the mountains. Modern glaciation is developed in the Greater Caucasus.

Many rivers begin in the mountains (for example, the Terek). Many of them are fed by rain and glaciers. Mountainous relief The Greater Caucasus determines the development of altitudinal zonation. The forest-steppe rises to a height of 100 m. Above it, up to a height of 600 m, beech-oak forests grow on mountain burozems. With height, the oak begins to disappear. Above 1200-1500 m, coniferous forests, consisting of Caucasian fir and spruce, begin to prevail. In the valleys of the northern slope of the Greater Caucasus Range, dry-loving pine forests grow. Subalpine and alpine meadows begin at 2000 m. Subalpine meadows are distinguished by high and dense herbage with thickets of rhododendron bushes. Alpine meadows are low-grass meadows with sedge and grasses. These meadows are excellent pastures. Above the alpine meadows, there are snow and ice belts.

The altitudinal zonation of the eastern part of the Greater Caucasus Range differs from the western one. In the west, in conditions of good humidity and warmth, forests with features of humid subtropics grow. These forests are composed of broad-leaved species: chestnut, oak, beech, hornbeam with evergreen undergrowth and lianas. The undergrowth consists of cherry laurel, boxwood, and yew. In the east, at the foot of the northern slopes, there are semi-deserts and dry steppes (they form under low moisture conditions). These semi-deserts and steppes rise high into the mountains. The forest belt is not clearly expressed here. Pine forests and beech groves grow only in mountain valleys, dark coniferous forests do not grow here.

With variety natural conditions The Caucasus is bound by the wealth and diversity of its resources. Dry steppes and semi-deserts of the eastern Caucasus are pastures for fine-wool sheep. The bowels contain ferrous and non-ferrous metal ores. In mountain forests, beech, spruce, fir, oak and pine are harvested. With the Black Sea coast (Sochi) and mineral springs(Kislovodsk, Mineral water) connected large resorts of national importance. On the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus, subtropical agriculture is developed: tea, citrus fruits, walnuts, peaches, and grapes. Rivers descending from the mountains carry a large supply of energy. The waters of these rivers also flow into irrigation canals.

There are several reserves in the Caucasus Mountains: in Dagestan, in North Ossetia, etc.