A new wave of archaeological excavations in Kerch. Archaeologists reveal the secrets of the blue gates of the Kerch fortress

In the village of Podmayachnoye in the area of ​​Golubina Bay, excavations of the ancient settlement of Gleyki-2 continue. This expedition was already carried out last year. The expedition is conducted under the leadership of Professor, Doctor of Historical Sciences, Head of the Department of Primitive Traditional Society of the Institute of Archeology of the Crimea of ​​the Russian Academy of Sciences Alexander Evgenievich KISLOGO. Gleyki-2 is one of the oldest settlements in Crimea. During the excavations, many artifacts were discovered there. So, for example, back in 2016, a burial of a young warrior with a large grater on his shoulder was discovered in the settlement, and last year an archaeologist managed to find elements of three boats of different models. Read: “The uniqueness of this settlement is that we in Crimea do not know such a different culture. Here is a set of artifacts that make up the cultural fund. These are ceramics, products and from such a material cultural layer, we do not know. Nowhere else, in any settlement, we do not know such ceramics in Crimea with such a culture, with such a form, ”Alexander Evgenievich said in an interview. This year, the expedition is trying to find even more structures that may have remained from ancient times.

Archaeological expedition near Kerch delights researchers with new finds

At the Kerch fortress, volunteers from the Archeology Foundation began clearing the so-called Blue Gate located on Cape Ak-Burun. Why blue? Previously, they were painted in blue color to distinguish it from everyone else. In general, the fortress had more than 20 fortified passages. In the event of a siege, the besieged could go through the Blue Gate to strike the flank of the enemy advancing on the northern part of the fortress. Nearby was the reduit of a covered path, from which fire was fired, preventing the besiegers from breaking the gates.

V the given time we are engaged in the opening of the earth masses accumulated on this site over the past two centuries of the existence of the fortress, - said Oleg Markov, Development Director of the Archeology Foundation. - Before the start of work, the area was surveyed by sappers from the Leader Center of the Russian Emergencies Ministry. Clearing showed that the thickness of the soil overflow in the area of ​​the gate is from 20 cm to one and a half meters. Research participants expect to find interesting finds. Thanks to the excavations, it is possible to discover previously unknown elements of the architecture of the Kerch fortress.

In parallel, work is underway to fix the graffiti left by the "artists" on the walls of the fortress. But this, as they say, is a woman's work, and therefore it fell on the shoulders of volunteers-girls. During the existence of the outpost, both builders and defenders of the fortress and foreign invaders have visited its territory. During the Great Patriotic War fortress Kerch several times passed from hand to hand.

As specified in the Fund, all work is supervised by the head of the research department "Fortress Kerch" Ph.D. Yuri Beylik, the volunteers of the Archeology Foundation in the fortress of Kerch are led by Alexander Okhremenko.

Cape Ak-Burun (translated from the Crimean Tatar "white cape"), where the Blue Gate is located, is a separate fortified defense area of ​​the Kerch fortress, the internal structure of which has yet to be studied, - said Oleg Markov.

By the way, it is interesting not only for its 19th century fortifications, but also for the archaeological remains of ancient times. There is a hypothesis that the ancient city of Hermisy, mentioned by Pomponius Mela and Pliny, is located on Ak-Burun.

In principle, this is possible, although in the list of names of ancient settlements preserved by written tradition for a section of the coast Eastern Crimea from Nymphaeus to Panticapaeum, there is another possible antique city- Diya, - said the director of the Fund. - In any case, only systematic archaeological excavations will be able to determine which city is located on Cape Ak-Burun. At the moment, we know for sure that the "father of Bosporan archeology" Paul Dubrux, in his description of this area, repeatedly drew attention to the rapid destruction of the remains of ancient walls and buildings that he recorded, which disappeared from the surface literally before our eyes. According to his calculations, 500 cubic meters (4900 m3) of stone was removed from only one such point for construction needs, and the lime kiln probably destroyed twice more.

According to his observations, only the fortress wall with towers and gates stretched over a length of two kilometers. Later, when Cape Ak-Burun firmly entered the jurisdiction of the military authorities, these antiquities became almost inaccessible to researchers and they gradually began to be forgotten.

Interestingly, in 1858 at Cape Ak-Burun, the Pavlovsky mound was excavated, in which a burial dated to the 4th century BC was discovered. The gold jewelry found there suggested that this was the burial of the priestess of the temple of Demeter, the Foundation stressed. - Our volunteers have already had to take part in the excavations of the temple of Demeter, however, on the other side of the Cimmerian Bosporus in the village of Vestnik (Anapa region). Now they may have the opportunity to study the worshipers of the cult of this goddess already in the Crimea.

On Friday, July 14, the Kerch fortress will host festive events dedicated to the 160th anniversary of the beginning of its construction. Scientists claim that the Kerch fortress is one of the most mysterious fortifications built in the 19th century. Few people know about its existence. Meanwhile, at one time it was the most powerful fortress in the South of Russia and the second most important after Kronstadt.

Since this unique monument is located in the immediate vicinity of the future bridge connecting Crimean peninsula with the mainland, then after restoration and partial reconstruction, it can become one of the main attractions on the way of tourists.

BY THE WAY

Anyone can become a volunteer and take part in the work of the Archeology Foundation. Everyone who is interested in military history Russia is invited to come to Kerch. Volunteer work on the Kerch Peninsula will last until September 1, 2017.

Kerch is a unique city. It stands in the very place where the waters of the two seas meet - not without reason, even before our era, these lands were literally occupied by settlers from Hellas, having built several colonies here. It is a pity that only ruins remained from the ancient Panticapaeum, Myrmekia and Nympheus, but these ancient stones remember dozens of past centuries.

In Kerch, there is simply an incredible number of attractions from different periods: the tombs of the Bosporan kings, an exceptional and somehow miraculously preserved temple of the VIII century, a Turkic fortress and architectural monuments of the period Russian Empire... Local sandy beaches are a great alternative to rocky coves South Shore Crimea. Some of the bathing areas even seem to be more landscaped and adapted for relaxation and comfort.

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What to see and where to go in Kerch?

The most interesting and Beautiful places for walking. Photos and a short description.

Since 2014, the ferry crossing is perhaps the only way to get from mainland Russia to Crimea. The transport hub functions well and smoothly, although in high season you can wait in line for several hours. On a short 20-minute journey from one coast to the other, you can admire the waves, flocks of seagulls hovering around the boat waiting for food, and even, with luck, a flock of bottlenose dolphins.

Low 90-meter hill within the city limits, geographic center Kerch, where in ancient times the city of Panticapaeum was located. The place is named after the Pontic king. Within the territory of the mountain there are several architectural monuments different times. At the top there is a memorial of Glory to the Immortal Heroes, erected in honor of the soldiers who died during the liberation of Crimea in 1943-44.

The staircase was originally built in the 19th century by the Italian architect A. Digby. It existed until the Crimean War, but as a result of the fighting it was damaged and destroyed. The restoration was started only after 130 years. The Kerch sculptor R.V. Serdyuk copied the ancient statues of griffins found during excavations and decorated the stairwells with them. After the collapse of a part of the structure, the next restoration work started in 2015.

An 18th century Ottoman stronghold built by an Italian architect who was in the service of the Turks. This bastion had strategic importance, since it prevented the passage of enemy ships through the narrow strait between the Black and Azov seas. In 1771 Russian troops entered the fortress. By the end of the 19th century, it lost its military significance and was abandoned. At the moment, the attraction continues to deteriorate.

The fortification is located in the narrowest part of the Kerch Strait at Cape Ak-Burun. The complex was built in the middle of the 19th century to defend the borders of the Russian Empire. In Soviet times, the weapons depots of the Black Sea Fleet were located here. In 2003, after the disbandment of military units, the fortress was transferred to the disposal of the local museum-reserve. Today it functions as a tourist attraction.

An early medieval Orthodox church of the 8th century (the oldest part of it was built in the 6th century), a unique monument of Byzantine architecture and the oldest religious building in Crimea. The building acquired its final appearance in the 10th century during the existence of the Tmutarakan principality. The church is active, there is a modern iconostasis and utensils inside.

An ancient Greek colony that existed on the site of Kerch since the 7th century BC. In those distant times, magnificent temples stood here, and the streets and wide squares were full of people. Later Panticapaeum was part of the Bosporus kingdom, was under the Scythian and Roman protectorate. The rich city was destroyed by the Goths in the IV century, time completed the work - today only ruins have survived from its former splendor.

An antique tomb with the remains of the original frescoes. Currently, it is located in the middle of urban development, in ancient times it was located on the territory of Panticapaeum. The crypt is a rectangular structure with walls made of boulders. A small corridor leads to the burial chamber. Considering the age of the wall painting, it is quite well preserved.

Complex artificial caves, which were formed as a result of centuries of extraction of shell rock. The place is famous for the fact that in 1942 the troops of the Crimean Front held the defense here. In 1966, on the territory of underground mines, the Defense Museum of the Adzhimushkai quarries was organized; in 1982, a memorial was erected here in honor of the fallen soldiers. The entrance to the territory is located among stone slabs with figures of defenders carved into them.

Monument of the IV century BC, which is the tomb of one of the rulers of the Bosporus kingdom. The burial mound rises 17 meters above the surface, beneath it there are a 36-meter corridor and a burial chamber, lined with smooth blocks. The hill itself consists of three layers: stone, clay, a mixture of pebbles and earth. When the archaeologists got to the mound, it had already been plundered.

Another tomb from the 4th century BC, excavated in the middle 19th century... During the work, archaeologists hoped that the mound remained intact and preserved all its treasures, but they were mistaken - it turned out to be as empty as Tsarskoe. Locals they got used to exporting clay from here for household needs, but thanks to the money allocated from the state treasury, the attraction was preserved. The first museum was opened here in 1871.

The museum was founded in 1926, which makes it one of the oldest in Crimea. During the Crimean War, the building was destroyed, and the exposition was plundered, some especially valuable items were taken to England, so now the exhibits of that time can be seen in the British Museum. Later, the collection began to be reassembled, and a new building was allocated to the museum. To date, more than 240 thousand copies are stored in its funds.

A lapidarium is a collection of art objects from the ancient era, found on excavations of settlements from the era of the Bosporus kingdom. Here sculptures, tombstones, elements of facade structures containing inscriptions and bas-reliefs, religious objects and much more are exhibited. The exposition is so diverse that it is appreciated all over the world. In total, there are about 6 thousand items in the lapidarium.

Building picture gallery is located near the Great Staircase of Mithridates and is part of it architectural ensemble... The building was built in a classical style. The basis of the collection is made up of canvases by the founder of the museum, artist N. Ya. But, and specifically, the cycle “Adzhimushkai. 1942 ". In addition to paintings, the gallery also exhibits other exhibits: sculpture, ceramics, glassware and other art objects.

In 1943, near the village of Eltigen, Soviet paratroopers fought with the German army for 40 days, showing remarkable courage. From these events, the liberation of the Crimea from the invaders began. A museum was built at the landing site, which displays the belongings of soldiers, weapons and awards, as well as a memorial complex, which includes a mass grave, a monument, the remains of trenches and a boat on a pedestal.

Mirmekiy is a colony of the Ionian Greeks, founded on the shores of the Kerch Strait in the 6th century BC. It existed until the X century, in the Middle Ages new settlements began to appear in its place, due to which the ancient cultural layer sank underground. The first finds on the territory of Mirmekia were made in the 1830s, but regular excavations began in the 20th century. Today it houses an archaeological complex.

Another settlement of the ancient era, which has survived to this day in ruins. It is located on a high plateau within the city limits. The settlement existed until the 8th century, after which it was destroyed during the Turkic raids. Continuous excavations have been carried out at the site since the 1920s. As a result, the foundations of houses, the remains of stone-paved squares and streets were raised to the surface.

The ruins of an ancient Greek city, located about 17 km from Kerch. Considering the number of ancient colonies in the city and its surroundings, one might think that settling on Taurica was even more prestigious than in Greece itself. It is a pity that none of the cities of that era located in the Crimea have survived to this day. Nymphaeus are the same ruins as Mirmekij, Tyritaka and Panticapaeum.

About 8 km from Kerch, on the territory of a shallow depression, there is a unique natural landmark - mud volcanoes... These are small lakes of a mixture of brown-gray earth and water, with a thick consistency. Each puddle has craters, from which gas bubbles burst from time to time. Sometimes the volcano throws out a rather powerful mud fountain with a jet height of up to 20 meters.

Almost every seaside resort considers it necessary to have their own ostrich farm. Kerch did not lag behind either - a couple of kilometers from the ferry in the village of Podmayachny, since 2004, these exotic birds have also been bred. The birds quickly acclimatized and almost immediately began to give birth to numerous offspring. Later they were joined by peacocks, pheasants, llamas, donkeys, ponies and other animals.

Salt Lake, located near the village of Kurortnoye, 16 km from Kerch. Until 1917, there was a mud baths near it, until the 1940s salt was mined here. The reservoir is separated from the sea by a small strip of land, along which a strip runs sandy beaches... Under certain lighting conditions, the surface of the lake acquires a pinkish tint, which looks very picturesque against the background of the surrounding steppe.

The cape is the northern tip Kerch Peninsula... Even before our era, these lands were inhabited - a Greek settlement was located here (in Kerch and the surrounding area, apparently, it is easier to find a place where there were no antique colonies). The cape juts out into the Sea of ​​Azov and is the natural border of two bays: the Reefs and the Marine Corps. The place is quite picturesque and deserted, perfect for contemplating the sea.

The cape is located on the eastern outskirts of Kerch at the entrance to the strait. A very convenient position for the lighthouse, which was installed here for the first time in 1820. The Lantern District is home to gulls, cormorants and water snakes. The Yenikalsky lighthouse, rebuilt after the Second World War in the 1950s, is still operational today. Although the tower looks a little dated, it is equipped with modern equipment.

Picturesque bays surrounded by rocks, stretching along the coast Sea of ​​Azov... They have preserved their pristine beauty, so tourists come here looking for solitude and tired of the promoted resorts. Behind a wide sandy strip stretch the endless landscapes of the "Pontic" steppe, coastline cut by dozens of small bays, there is not even a hint of civilization around - what else is needed for happiness?

The main beach of Kerch is the most comfortable swimming place in the city. It is located on Kamysh-Burunskaya spit and has access to the embankment. The main advantages: a shallow bottom, a covering of sand and small shell rock, the presence of changing rooms, gazebos, cafes, sun loungers for rent and car parking. Vacationers are offered many water attractions and other entertainment.

I am often asked: “What sights of Kerch worth seeing? " To which I basically answer: "Panticapaeum"! This is one of the places in Crimea that attracts a huge number of tourists. Today there is every reason to believe that it is Panticapaeum that is the most ancient city on the territory of the peninsula.

Where is the attraction

Panticapaeum is located in the city Kerch, in its very heart, on the famous. To Chekhov Street, on which, in fact, is located ancient settlement, another attraction leads - the Great Mithridatskaya Staircase. You will have to climb 431 stone steps before you reach your goal.

But believe me, it's worth it. Personally, when I climbed the stairs, I experienced the most positive emotions. The greatness of the ancient building (1832 - 1840) decorated with griffins simply cannot leave you indifferent. Then, from the stairs, you need to go to the path, which will lead you to the ruins of the ancient state.

History of origin and development

Panticapaeum is considered the most ancient state, since it is rather difficult to call it a city. The territory was about one hundred hectares. At different times, the borders expanded and narrowed again. Panticapaeum has experienced many peoples, events, and today every traveler interested in history has the opportunity to see with his own eyes the ruins of a once great power. Find out significant events that influenced the history of the modern city.

It is believed that the settlement was founded by the ancient Greeks who came to these lands from Miletus in the 7th century BC. For comparison, it is based on a century later. At the same time, archaeologists have found evidence that the first settlers appeared here much earlier. In 480 Taman and Kerch united, forming a great state, the capital of which was Panticapaeum. Already in 438, the city became the most powerful in the entire ancient world.

The Acropolis was the center, all the nobility lived in it, it was just on Mount Mithridates, from where, however, as now, a stunning view opened up. A hundred years after its foundation, the temple of Apollo was erected in the city, which became the patron saint of the settlement. In the east, in the harbor of the most important trading point of those times, there were about thirty ships.

It was in Panticapaeum that gold, silver and copper coins were minted, which were the main unit of the Bosporus kingdom. The state was powerful enough, mainly a good location influenced its strength. After the rapid flowering of Panticapaeum, a protracted decline awaited, which arose as a result of internal disagreements between representatives of the authorities. The decline lasted for almost two centuries, until 107 BC, when the city fell under the rule of the Pontic rulers.

Then there was another take-off, the state blossomed again, albeit not for long. And already in 14, Panticapaeum became an ordinary puppet. The rulers changed one after another, and this lasted for almost four hundred years. At the beginning of the fourth century, the Ostrogoths attacked the Bosporus, but it existed for another fifty years. Panticapaeum was completely destroyed in 371. For several centuries it was, in fact, a wasteland. And only in 600 g the city of Kerch was founded in its place.

In 1970, architects reconstructed some of the columns, but there are also places here that were practically not damaged by wars and vandals. This is a necropolis with royal tombs. This is a whole series of burial mounds where the Scythian nobility and military leaders rest. Excursions in Crimea will help you see as many of these places as possible in a shorter period of time. But if you decide to visit Panticapaeum on your own, in particular the tombs. I recommend first of all to visit Melek-Chesmensky, as well as the Golden and Tsarsky burial mounds. They are almost untouched by centuries and people. An unforgettable experience guaranteed.

All the ruins of the former great state, even now, despite the fact that the remains of some buildings, even the very temple of Apollo, are barely visible, cause indescribable impressions. The place is amazing, it causes not only delight, but also some kind of incomprehensible feeling. As if you find yourself in an ancient kingdom, where everything is about to come to life. Majestic defensive walls and ten-meter buildings will rise. Perhaps you have this oldest city and will not cause such feelings, but in any case, you will definitely not experience disappointment.

How to get there (get there)

Everything here largely depends on what kind of transport you are traveling with. If it is a personal or rented car, refer to the map. Map and coordinates at the bottom of the page! Citizens traveling by public transport sit on route taxi No. 5 or 28, departing from the Kerch bus station. Get off at the stop "Pl. Lenin "and move to the west. You need to walk about one kilometer.

From the stop "Kerch" there are buses numbered 23, 5 and 3. You also get to Lenin Square. Walk along Admiralteyskiy proezd to Teatralnaya Street and turn onto st. Them. 51st Army. And already from it you go out onto the stairs, which I already wrote about above.

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