Vilkovo is a Ukrainian Venice in the Odessa region. Vilkovo, Odessa region - what is it like, Ukrainian Venice? Ukrainian Venice
In tourist brochures, the town of Vilkovo in the Kiliysky district of the Odessa region is called the "Ukrainian Venice". In fact, a living illustration of the labor feat of thousands of fugitive Old Believers will open before us.
There are many amazing places in Ukraine, both from an architectural and a natural point of view. And there is one where the natural beauty of the Danube estuary miraculously combines with simple human labor in almost inhuman conditions.
In tourist brochures, the town of Vilkovo in the Kiliysky district of the Odessa region is called the "Ukrainian Venice".
In fact, we will see a vivid illustration of the labor feat of thousands of fugitive Old Believers who managed to settle in the Polesie bogs and Danube floodplains. We have long wanted to see these places with our own eyes, because getting to those parts is not easy even in a good crossover. And that's why!
Vilkovo is located in the very corner of our country, in the south-west of the Odessa region, near the border with Romania. The E-95 highway is known, perhaps, to every motorist - the road to Odessa leads from Kiev as an arrow. And if someone goes to Vilkovo from other regions, they will still have to pass Odessa. Here it is best to make a pit stop at the 21st kilometer (+400 m) of the ring road near the village of Usatovskoye at an OKKO gas station. The fact is that we had a small child with us, for whom it was time to change diapers. ... This became another reason for choosing this filling station, since there is a changing table in the restroom, which my wife found out about, planning our route in advance..
For the rest of the crew (and there were four of us), pretty hungry on the way, the main "bonus" was the presence here the cuisine of the restaurant of the A la minute chain that we already know, which we trust, after all, we have checked it more than once. By the way, a note to parents traveling with children - these restaurants even have dishes on the menu that are recommended for little guests (at the next table with us, the baby willingly ate baby pasta). The wife preferred Caesar salad and Millefeuil dessert, her sister preferred steamed buckwheat with goulash, and the male half took borscht and juicy pork steak. We didn't have to wait long for an order, but while we were having lunch, we managed to wash the car with a good discount due to the points accumulated on the Fishka card - nice!
After a hearty lunch, I really wanted to walk along the short road along the sea, which was offered google maps... But after Belgorod-Dnestrovsky it became clear that it was simply awful, it is difficult to go above 40 km / h without damage to the suspension and riders, so we turned onto the infamous M-15 road (Odessa-Reni), which partially coincides with the European E- 87.
By the way, if you have time, on the way you can call into the fortress in Belgorod-Dnestrovsky, it will take an hour and a half. The territory there is rather big, there is where to climb and what to see.
While I was driving, my wife was reading the history of the "Ukrainian Venice" from the phone. It turns out that Vilkovo was originally the village of Lipovanskoye, which in 1746 (according to other sources in 1762) was founded by the so-called Old Believers or Lipovans. They fled from religious persecution after the Nikonian schism of the Russian Orthodox Church. These were the Don Cossacks who first settled in the Danube floodplains in the 40s of the 17th century. Then the settlement of Lipovanskoye appeared on Russian military maps.
Monument to the Old Believer Pioneer - the Founder of Vilkovo
At the same time, this territory was settled by the Zaporozhye Cossacks, who fled from persecution after the destruction of the Zaporozhye Sich. Until now, Lipovans represent the majority of the city's population. They have preserved many of their religious traditions.
There are three churches in the city: an Orthodox Orthodox and two Lipovan Old Believers. Since 1812, after the signing of the Bucharest Peace Treaty, Vilkovo is a district town in the Bessarabian province.
There are many amazing places in Ukraine, both from an architectural and a natural point of view. And there is one where the natural beauty of the Danube estuary miraculously combines with simple human labor in almost inhuman conditions. In tourist brochures, the town of Vilkovo in the Kiliysky district of the Odessa region is called the "Ukrainian Venice". In fact, we will see a vivid illustration of the labor feat of thousands of fugitive Old Believers who managed to settle in the Polesie bogs and Danube floodplains. We have long wanted to see these places with our own eyes, because getting to those parts is not easy even in a good crossover. And that's why!
Vilkovo is located in the very corner of our country, in the south-west of the Odessa region, near the border with Romania. The E-95 highway is known, perhaps, to every motorist - the road to Odessa leads from Kiev as an arrow. And if someone goes to Vilkovo from other regions, they will still have to pass Odessa. Here it is best to make a pit stop at the 21st kilometer (+400 m) of the ring road near the village of Usatovskoye at an OKKO gas station. The fact is that we had a small child with us, for whom it was time to change diapers. ... This became another reason for choosing this filling station: there is a changing table in the restroom, which my wife found out about when planning our route.
Express info by country
Ukraine- a state in Eastern Europe.
Capital- Kiev
Largest cities: Kiev, Lvov, Kharkov, Odessa, Dnipro, Zaporozhye, Kryvyi Rih, Donetsk
Form of government- Parliamentary-presidential republic
Territory- 603 549 km2 (44th in the world)
Population- 42.6 million people (32nd in the world)
Official language- Ukrainian
Religion- Orthodoxy, Catholicism
HDI- 0.747 (81st in the world)
Gdp- $ 131.8 billion (59th in the world)
Currency- hryvnia
Borders with: Belarus, Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, Moldova, Russia
For the rest of the crew (and there were four of us), pretty hungry on the way, the main "bonus" was the presence here the already familiar cuisine of the A la minute restaurant chain, which we trust. By the way, a note to parents traveling with children: these restaurants even have dishes on the menu that are recommended for little guests (at the next table with us, the baby willingly ate baby pasta).
The wife preferred Caesar salad and Millefeuil dessert, her sister preferred steamed buckwheat with goulash, and the male half took borscht and juicy pork steak. We didn't have to wait long for an order, but while we were having lunch, we managed to wash the car with a good discount due to the points accumulated on the Fishka card - nice!
After a hearty lunch, I really wanted to walk along the short road along the sea that Google maps suggested. But after Belgorod-Dnestrovsky it became clear that it was simply awful, it is difficult to go above 40 km / h without damage to the suspension and riders, so we turned onto the infamous M-15 road (Odessa-Reni), which partially coincides with the European E- 87.
By the way, if you have time, on the way you can call into the fortress in Belgorod-Dnestrovsky, it will take an hour and a half. The territory there is rather big, there is where to climb and what to see.
While I was driving, my wife was reading the history of the "Ukrainian Venice" from the phone. It turns out that Vilkovo was originally the village of Lipovanskoye, which in 1746 (according to other sources in 1762) was founded by the so-called Old Believers or Lipovans. They fled from religious persecution after the Nikonian schism of the Russian Orthodox Church. These were the Don Cossacks who first settled in the Danube floodplains in the 40s of the 17th century. Then the settlement of Lipovanskoye appeared on Russian military maps.
Monument to the Old Believer Pioneer - the Founder of Vilkovo
At the same time, this territory was settled by the Zaporozhye Cossacks, who fled from persecution after the destruction of the Zaporozhye Sich. Until now, Lipovans represent the majority of the city's population. They have preserved many of their religious traditions. There are three churches in the city: an Orthodox Orthodox and two Lipovan Old Believers. Since 1812, after the signing of the Bucharest Peace Treaty, Vilkovo is a district town in the Bessarabian province.
The first inhabitants of Vilkovo began to master the floodplain, but in order to build a house and set up a garden and a vegetable garden, first it was necessary to build an artificial island. Construction material they took it right there, digging a channel around the island. And today the population of the old city continues to live on the same islands, each of which is surrounded by a canal or "erik". Roads from house to house are laid along masonry and bridges. Each family has its own boat, and this is the main vehicle vilkovchan. Actually, that's why Vilkovo got the fame of "Ukrainian Venice". Fortunately, Vilkovo has not only canals as transport arteries, but there are also ordinary roads. And mainly in the form of concrete roads, asphalt is concentrated at the entrance.
August 20th, 2014
Once again I visited Vilkovo - the most southern city Ukraine on the banks of the Danube. This is probably the fourth or fifth time that I have been to this unique city. The amazing thing is that every time I take a camera with me, but when I come home I realize that I haven't photographed anything again ... nothing, let alone write a post.
It must be the fresh river and sea air or the local hospitality, supported by a lot of wine and treats, but the fact remains - there are no photos.
This time, I was patient and diligently snapped the beauties of familiar places, occasionally being distracted by distractions)
In general, there are a lot of pictures, so get ready to spin the wheels on your mice for a long time.
Traditionally, all excursions around Vilkovo begin from the pier where the monument to the Old Believer is erected, or as it is called locals- a monument to Lipovanin. After the reform of the Russian Orthodox Church in the 18th century, the fugitive Old Believers-Lipovans founded the village of Lipovanskoye on this place, from which modern Vilkovo originates.
At the same time, these places were inhabited by the Zaporozhye Cossacks, who preferred to live separately, not mixing with the Old Believers. A similar division exists now: the Old Believers live in their part of the city - Lipovan, which is called the "Ukrainian Venice", which consists of piled-up land plots separated by numerous eriks and canals, the rest of the city's population lives traditionally - on solid ground.
Until now, local men-Old Believers maintain a kind of dress code: a long shirt "worn out", belted with a string, and, of course, a beard.
The central part of the city looks standard for an ordinary provincial town.
Lenin Street - the main street passing through the whole city. It contains all the main buildings of local authorities, the church and, of course, the market.
Monument to the fisherman. For the locals, fishing has been the main way of obtaining food and livelihoods from time immemorial.
Vilkovo house.
Most of the houses are covered with tiles. They call it Romanian, since this region once belonged to Romania.
St. Nicholas Church is the only Orthodox church in the city, built in 1902 on the site of a wooden church. In addition to her, there are two more Old Believer churches in Vilkovo.
On the way to the market I came across a small pet shop.
Barely restrained himself from acquiring a couple of these nice guys.
As in any other market, you can buy anything you want on the Vilkovo market.
But for a tourist, fish rows are especially valuable.
Here they sell all kinds of fresh, smoked, dried, salted and dried fish caught in the Danube and nearby waters.
What can I say here ?! - it is not for nothing that the famous "Danube" is famous all over the world.
The city acquired such an appearance thanks to the great hard work of its founders - Lipovans. After all, they literally won a place for life from the water, meter by meter. The area of marshy land chosen for habitation was cleared of reeds and layer by layer was covered with silt, which was selected around this area, where later eriks (canals) were formed. Thus, they "built up" the land both for the construction of houses and for vegetable gardens.
Now the old part of the city consists of more than seventy such alluvial land areas.
They move along the canals exclusively by boats. Moreover, modern boats are much less common than traditional wooden ones. Local craftsmen have achieved great skill in their manufacture. A traditional Vilkovo boat has a certain elongated shape, which is necessary for movement through narrow channels. It looks like a Venetian gondola, hence the comparison with a similar city on the water - Venice.
So by car you can only get here to a certain place, and then - only by swimming.
Well, or on foot, the good for this, the hardworking Lipovans also did not spare their efforts and laid the so-called "masonry" along all the water streets - wooden flooring from boards, running for many kilometers along the fences, thus forming sidewalks.
Numerous bridges help to cross from one side of the street to the other.
Decommissioned boat.
Local residents are hospitable to tourists walking in their "clutches". And they even offer to buy their homemade wine and fruits.
On the "masonry", in order to miss two pedestrians going to meet each other, one of them will have to yield.
The locals have a lot of jokes about these streets. One of them: when Lipovanin touches Novak (the name of the local wine), he sways not from side to side, like everyone else, but back and forth, such a feature is inherent at the genetic level and protects the tipsy from falling into one of the channels.
Each boat must be registered, because the territory is borderline, and many local residents have vegetable gardens on the islands in the Danube floodplains, where Romania is a stone's throw away.
Crossroads.
Almost all houses are in perfect condition.
There was only one abandoned house, and then, a little repair - and you can live.
Someone's yard.
The Belgorod Canal is the main waterway of the city, one might say, a water avenue.
So they live.
But there are no traffic jams.
One to one with Venice.
Local boys are raving about fishing. In my presence, in about three minutes, they caught a couple of palm-sized fish.
Having admired the unusual landscapes of Vilkovo, we went to the Pelican base, located on the banks of the Danube, from where we started on the ship of the same name to the “zero kilometer”.
A monument to the Danube herring, it is so dear and important for local residents.
And here the boat came up.
Danube, fishermen at work, and Romania is already on the other side.
The domes of the Old Believers' Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared.
The road to the "zero kilometer" runs along one of the Danube branches, the Ankudinovo River, at the very beginning of which icons are installed that protect fishermen and other sailors.
The places here are very picturesque.
The houses of local residents are occasionally shown.
There are even very decent ones.
One cannot but agree with the deed of the owners of this house. When there is such nature around, the TV turns out to be a completely useless thing, except to catch fish from it and no more.
Reed reed harvesting is another popular business among the residents of Vilkovo.
Traffic along the canal is very busy. Boats run with local fishermen and tourists.
The prototype of the monument to the "zero kilometer".
Before the final destination of the journey, "kilometer zero", tourists will have a traditional lunch at the Lipovan estate-museum "Quackenburg".
Guests are greeted by a colorful hostess with no less colorful poems about Lipovans and Vilkovo.
The name of the tourist base "Quackenburg" is not accidental, in the Danube floodplain there are farms for breeding frogs, which are exported in large numbers to France and other countries where frogs are considered a delicacy.
The territory of the estate-museum is quite large. Here you can freely spend several hours looking at the exhibits of Lipovan life, or relaxing by the river after a delicious lunch.
Reed reed harvesting.
Winemaking stand.
No less important is the manufacture of boats.
This is how Vilkovo fish soup is cooked.
Finally, the most enjoyable part of the trip has arrived - lunch! On the menu, ukha in Vilkovo style, when yushka is served separately from fish, and all this must be consumed, generously flavored with garlic sauce and washed down with wine.
Only in the local vineyards, thanks to the silty soil, the Novak grape variety is grown. It is also used to make the wine of the same name, which has an original taste unlike any other of the wines.
And my advice to you: do not refuse boiled fish heads, as it turned out, this is an amazingly tasty delicacy!
After lunch you can take a dip in the river or just relax while admiring the local beauty.
The usual loading on the Pelican and the way to the final point of the journey.
Oncoming boat with tourists.
The territory of the Danube Biosphere Reserve. Admission is only by passes.
The inhabitants of the reserve are beginning to come across.
I can't help but show the passenger sitting in front of me.
The white spots in the distance are pelicans. Last time they nested much closer to passing boats.
And the optics let us down a little.
And here is the same "zero kilometer" - the place where the Danube waters flow into the Black Sea.
The captain's cabin "Pelican".
While all the tourists rushed to be photographed against the background of "zero", our company decided to walk in the other direction to the observation tower.
Unfortunately, we did not see any animals or birds here. Apparently, in this heat, they all hide in the shade of the reeds.
Only the dragonfly tried hard to gain a foothold on the branch.
Reserve map.
Pictures of those who live here.
Pelicans, but far away again.
The coast is very picturesque. It would be nice to come here with a tent for a couple of days, but this can hardly be organized - it is forbidden to stay on the territory of the reserve for a long time, so as not to disrupt the natural life of its inhabitants.
That’s the end of my story about Vilkovo and its environs. Local residents have come up with a belief that any wish will come true if you crawl through zero. Just in case, I thought about "WORLD WORLD", suddenly it really works.
Our article will focus on a small town, which is located at the very confluence of the Danube River into the Black Sea. A mysterious, enigmatic, mesmerizing place where reality and fiction, natural beauty and the products of human deeds are intertwined, all this is Vilkovo, there is the Ukrainian Venice. This is the name of this amazing place not only by visitors, but also by the residents of the city.
Old part the city is located on the water, so it can only be reached by boat. You will not see standard transport here, because instead of streets there are canals, like in Venice.
Let's see how it happened that people created this city right on the river, and what kind of rest Vilkovo can provide, judging by the reviews of people.
Church Reform: Implications
Several centuries ago, representatives of the Old Believers fled to this place from the imposed church reform. As a result, after Russia's victory in the Russian-Turkish war, Russia's position has significantly increased. Many lands were united, and Moscow absorbed a single center of Russia. It became necessary to create some kind of one central church, since the Orthodox religion was the only pivot for the state.
It was decided to come to one ritual, one form of worship and one prayer. To this end, Nikon's reform began to be introduced, in the center of which was laid the Byzantine church practice.
It turned out that many years after the baptism of Russia, traditional rituals underwent changes. Patriarch Nikon rebelled against fragmentation and disunity, and on this wave he enlisted the royal support. But in fact, everything turned out to be much more complicated - not everyone wanted to accept the changes.
Of those who wanted to live the old way there were a record number, among them were: part of the boyars, clergy, peasants, merchants. This is how the split process began. As a result of the confrontation, many people suffered, and the Old Believers realized that there was practically no chance to win and survive.
Some engaged in self-immolation protests, others fled, and still others went underground. Thus, the escaped Lipovan Old Believers ended up on the swampy banks of the Danube and Ukrainian Venice began to emerge.
Lipovan feat and the birth of Vilkovo
Since 1746, this city on the water has been literally rebuilt and "earth out of the water" was taken, namely, they found silt inside the waters, laid it in the foundations of houses, streets, and fenced the islets with chopped reeds. It was as if the city was being torn from the grasping hands of the river.
During the days of the Russian-Turkish war, the Lipovans contributed to the victory. Their merits were highly appreciated in the reports of Kutuzov. If the Lipovans did not contribute, present one of the most notable victories on a historical scale - the capture of the city of Izmail, a fortress Ottoman Empire, it would be simply impossible. According to Suvorov, who personally examined the fortress before the assault, this structure is one of the strongest fortifications in all of Europe.
The Lipovans themselves did not take part in the hostilities for religious reasons, but they agreed to help Suvorov in organizing the transfer of troops along the Danube. They gave their own boats with high driving performance, roominess and maneuverability. During the years of their lives on the river, the settlers have foreseen everything. Their narrow boats had sharp-toed edges on both sides, which greatly saved them time on turns.
As a reward, the commander gave the Lipovans the opportunity to own the water of the Danube, and this was recorded in the document and sealed. In the 20th century, Romania attempted to deprive the Lipovans of this right, but the Hague International Court recognized the Lipovans' right to be the masters of the Danube.
The Lipovan's act is not even a military feat, but also a good Christian deed. The people showed that they do not remember any grievances, they put the common cause higher than their own interests and know how to help, without hope for any benefits.
Population of Vilkovo
Most of all in Vilkovo are Russians. There are about 70% of them here, and most of them today profess an ancient religion, support the Old Believer faith. 25% are Romanians, Moldovans, Ukrainians, Bulgarians, as well as representatives of other national minorities.
In total, about 9 thousand people live in Viloko (according to 2001 data). Russian is the native language for most of the population.
Religion in Vilkovo
There are only three churches in the city - two churches that support the Old Believer traditions, one is Orthodox. In addition, there are several Baptist churches in Vilkovo.
Geography of the region
On the map of Vilkovo, you can add a clear idea of the location of the town.
The Danube flows into the Black Sea with several "branches" separating channels that resemble a fork, this explains the name of the city. Parts of this fork were manually combined by "eriks" - channels. And on this moment there are more than 72 islets in the city.
Together with the river channels, the canals created one large water system Vilkovo. Photo of Vilkovo well demonstrates the canals that alternate with small islands. If you look at the map of the city from the air, when the Danube overflows, you can see clear rectangles of land islands among endless water.
Vilkovo nature
Vilkovo is really paradise, which can rightfully be called the Ukrainian Venice, because here all nature lives at the junction of the river and the sea. The rarest species of animals, birds and plants can be found in this region. And nearby there are lakes and a pine forest. Silt gives plants strength, as in Ancient egypt fertilizing them.
Residents take out the silt with their own hands, stand in the water, then let it dry and deliver it in wheelbarrows wherever they need it. The land that you create with your own hands can always be turned into a vegetable garden with vegetable beds or a garden with flowers.
Small houses of residents are drowning in aromatic vineyards and gardens. All vegetable gardens are mainly located on the islands. Just imagine: to get to visit a neighbor, you need to swim in a boat or walk along the bridge. What can I say, really Ukrainian Venice. In the photo you can see simple streets along which boats move. This is how the everyday life of the residents of Vilkovo passes.
Business in Vilkovo
In addition to cultivating the land, the inhabitants catch fish and sell it. It is not for nothing that the city is sometimes called the capital of the Danube fishermen. They fish here both in the river and in the sea. This is the main occupation of the population. In addition, reeds are in great demand here.
Local strawberries, fish, grapes, homemade wine and other products are sold by the residents of Vilkovo to tourists who are happy to buy local delicacies.
Attractions Vilkovo
Why should you come to Vilkovo? Ukrainian Venice is an exceptional city in Europe, located on the territory of the Danube Plavni Nature Reserve. This is a territory that is carefully guarded by the state. Here are the most unique natural complexes, environmental monitoring is carried out along with research by scientists.
Life is in full swing in Vilkovo. Many birds, animals, fish and plants are included in the Red Book. At the place where the Danube flows into the Black Sea, there is a “zero kilometer” sign. According to some rumors, if you visit here at least once, you can forget about illnesses and failures. It’s hard to believe that the Danube route is 2.5 thousand kilometers long, and it flows into the sea right here, in Vilkovo.
Rest in Ukrainian Venice
In that great location there are several hotels, mini-hotels and recreation centers. Based on the reviews, we can conclude that it is ideal to be here in a pair, with children or big company or family. The courtyards have playgrounds, slides and swings.
During the day, you can swim on a boat or boat, go fishing or even visit fish market, by the way, the best in the region.
Recommended local cuisine... It is worth trying real fish soup, smoked bream, Danube herring, Salamur sauce, Lipovan herbal tea, and, of course, the local Novak wine. You should definitely come to Vilkovo. It's tasty and interesting here!
It is curious that 300 years ago, when Vilkovo (formerly Lipovanskoe) was founded by the Cossacks and Lipovans, the city stood near the sea. But over the past centuries, the sea has moved 18 kilometers.
Danube is the main local attraction. It is the largest river in Europe, almost 3000 kilometers long. The river is the border of ten states, including Ukraine. Actually, Romania is already on the opposite bank from Vilkovo. Despite the fact that the number of fish in the Danube is decreasing, there is still fish and fishing is an important source of income for local residents. There is sturgeon and beluga.
What to do in Vilkovo:
- ride a boat or walk along the canals of the city
- visit the "zero kilometer", the place where the Danube flows into the sea
- get to know Lipovan culture and cuisine
- see Old Believer churches
- go fishing
- try local wine
- visit unique island Ermakov, see birds and animals
Vilkovo has main channel, just like in Venice. Actually, this is the only "working" channel that is constantly used.
There are also many little eriks.
A curious system of wooden and stone platforms, they are almost everywhere and allow you to avoid dirt.
Hundreds of such platforms have been built along the Danube - personal berths.
There are a lot of daffodils in the city in spring.
There are several monuments.
Lenin was demolished last year, only one pedestal remained.
The state is very weak in supporting the tourism industry in Vilkovo, therefore the tourism infrastructure that is now was built by local residents. Actually, the state, apparently, and in general, supports Vilkovo only in words, this can be seen even along the terrible road that leads to the city.
We, as tourists with many years of experience, will list what what needs to be done here first of all for the development of the tourism industry... In case the powers that be read us.
1. The most important thing is to pay attention to Vilkovo. Not only in terms of tourism. Believe me, this needs to be done for various reasons. And if you do not understand these reasons, then you have no place among those in power.
2. To repair 80 kilometers of the road, it's a shame, not a road.
3. Clear, improve and, most importantly, preserve the remaining small channels (channels). This is indeed business card Vilkovo, which many tourists now call simply a swamp.
4. Improve tourist water transport and the services they provide. At the moment, there is apparently no special supervision over those who offer services.
5. To put more emphasis on Lipovan traditions and cuisine. Take an example from the promoted Hutsuls.
There are many other recommendations, these are only basic ones. Why should you pay attention to Vilkovo? Because it unique place... Trust us, wherever we have not been, and still we write that this place is unique, with good potential.
Moreover, Vilkovo is already popular with foreign tourists. Together with us there was a group of Germans, 15 people, employees of the embassy. Many European tourists come to Vilkovo during cruises on the Danube. This is the last point for them, here they change to small boats and go to the zero kilometer, that is, the place where the Danube flows into the Black Sea.
In addition to Vilkovo itself, the Danube Biosphere Reserve, which is located around the city, is of great interest. Wherever you go by boat, your path will go through the reserve. The Danube Delta ecosystem is the most interesting in Europe and one of the best in the world. During two days of excursions, we saw a huge number of birds and animals.
We took two boat trips. First, to the symbolic zero kilometer along the Ankudinovy gear. On the way we looked at alluvial gardens and reed thickets.
At the final point of the route, they were photographed with a symbolic sign. Here you can also collect various beautiful shells and see rare birds. It's a pity that our camera does not allow us to photograph them in the distance, but believe me, they are there, even pelicans.
We also visited Ermakov Island. On the way we passed along Vilkovo.
It is visited by only a few hundred people a year, so a unique ecosystem has developed here. There is no berth here, disembarkation is direct to the shore. We really wanted to fly here on a copter and show the island from above, but the border guards forbade them (we specially called them to ask permission).
A long focus lens is a must here. We saw wild horses, wild cows, hyena, white-tailed eagle, bittern, cormorant, curly-headed pelican, heron, pheasant, hoopoe. They really wanted to see forest cats and wild boars, but it didn't work out.
The island is surrounded by a special dam that prevents growth tall trees and shrubs. It is very convenient to walk along the dam and, by the way, the path on it is trodden by animals, not people.
Not everyone survives the winter; they have seen the bones of several large animals.
Raven egg
And of course, very beautiful landscapes.
Vilkovo is also interesting in that Old Believers (Lipovans) live here. We have little interest in religion, so we didn't even know who they were. In a nutshell: the church reform was carried out in the 1650s - 1660s. Those who did not accept the reform began to be called Old Believers. They are also Orthodox believers, just with minor, "cosmetic" differences. You can read in detail in Wikipedia, but for us the main difference was that Old Believers cross with two fingers, not three, and the entrance to the church is separate for men and women.
There are three churches in Vilkovo: two for Old Believers and one modern. We specially shot them from above for comparison. Purely visually - no differences. True, inside the Old Believers it is impossible to photograph, the local mayor's office has officially banned. The reason is conflicts between Old Believers and tourists.
On the Internet you can read that Lipovans are reserved and unsociable. I must say that there is such an impression. Although, when we flew in the city with a copter, the locals approached with interest and asked what it was and how it worked. No communication problems were observed :)
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