Naryn-kala fortress in derbent. Derbent fortress: description, history, interesting facts and reviews Derbent fortress naryn kala opening hours
The Naryn-Kala fortress (Dagestan) is business card the city of Derbent. This citadel was included in the UNESCO honorary list as a historical and cultural monument of world importance. The walls, gates and towers of the defensive complex have survived to this day. Inside the fortress there are water cisterns and reservoirs, baths, a cross-domed church and the Juma mosque. These last two churches are the oldest in the Russian Federation.
There is still debate among scientists about how old Naryn-Kale is. The earliest buildings of the fortress date back to the sixth century, and the latest - to the fifteenth. Let's make it virtual tour along this ancient defensive structure.
Naryn-Kala fortress: history
The city of Derbent itself is more than five thousand years old. It is believed that the citadel, named Naryn-Kala, that is, the Sun Fortress, was built by Shah Kavad in the sixth century. His son, Khosrov the First Anushirvan, continued his father's work and erected a fortress wall blocking the passage between the Caucasus and the Caspian Sea. It is believed that its length was forty kilometers. The wall went into the sea, thereby blocking the path of the barbarians from the north through shallow water and providing the defenders of the citadel with a convenient port. But all these buildings belong to the pre-Arab period of the early Middle Ages. And modern archaeological research has revealed that on the territory of the Naryn-Kala fortress (Derbent), there were more ancient settlement surrounded by a wall of adobe bricks. It dates from the reign of Yazdigird II (438-457) and refers to the late Albanian-Sarmatian and Sassanid periods. But that's not all. were laid on a stone plinth. Apparently, this masonry belongs to the defensive ones that existed five thousand years ago.
Where and why was Naryn-Kala built?
In the early Middle Ages, it was constantly raided by barbarian nomads from the steppes near the Volga delta. Therefore, it was decided to close the so-called Caspian Gate between the spurs of the Dzhalgan range and the sea. The sturdy and reliable brickwork of the thick and high walls was inaccessible to the weapons of those times. But later, the Naryn-Kala fortress withstood many sieges. After all, the defenders were helped by the terrain. On three sides, the slopes of the hill on which the citadel rises are very steep.
The fort, unlike the previous fortified complexes, was not a settlement. It stood at a distance from Derbent and was inhabited by guards guarding the narrow passage. But the fortress was also the residence of the marzpans - Iranian governors. Therefore, it soon became an important administrative, commercial and cultural center.
Powerful citadel
Until now, people are shocked by the defensive ability of the fortress. Its shape is dictated by the outlines of the relief. The Naryn-Kala fortress is an irregular polygon outlined by walls three meters thick. The builders used lime mortar and stone blocks for soldering. The height of these walls is ten to twelve meters. Towers run along the perimeter - at a distance of about 20-30 m from each other. The area of the fortress is four and a half hectares. In the southwestern end of the stronghold there is a square tower, which is a lintel with the Dag-bar wall, which closes the "Caspian passage". One part of it went into the sea, and the other into the mountains. There are four courtyards at different levels of the fortress. From the side of Derbent, the citadel guarded a very steep mountain slope. So the stronghold could be taken only with the presence of artillery. What happened in 1796, during the Russian-Persian War.
Internal buildings of the Naryn-Kala fortress
The citadel guarding the northern borders of Persia was prepared for a possible long siege. For the autonomous water supply system, underground canals were laid, leading from mountain springs to stone reservoirs inside the fortress. One of these cisterns became ... the Christian church. This cross-domed building was erected in the fourth or fifth century. Later it was used as a temple of fire worshipers - Zoroastrians. When Islam established itself on these lands, the building was abandoned. She gradually went underground and began to be used as a reservoir for storing water. Paradoxically, thanks to this, the church has survived to our time. This is the oldest Christian church in Russia.
The Juma Mosque belongs to the medieval architectural monuments. It is also the oldest in Russia. Its construction dates back to the eighth century. But in the following centuries, the building was rebuilt several times. In the fifteenth century, a madrasah was erected in front of the mosque. Was in the citadel Naryn-Kala (Derbent) and the Shah's palace. But he came to us in ruins.
Buildings of the New Time on the territory of Naryn-Kala
The fortress, and with it the city, did not lose their strategic importance and at the end of the Middle Ages. The Derbent khans settled in the citadel. They turned the Naryn-Kala fortress into their residence. was abandoned, but new khan's chambers were erected on the territory of the citadel in the eighteenth century (during the reign of Fet-Ali). In addition, the complex was replenished with administrative buildings. These are zindan (prison cellars), divan-khana (office). The remains of Derbent rulers are buried here in the mausoleums.
Khan's baths (XVI-XVII centuries) have also survived. The guardhouse belongs to the Russian buildings of the nineteenth century. Now this building houses picture gallery Derbent.
Archaeological excavations
In the twentieth century, historians began to work on the territory of the fortress in order to establish the true age of Naryn-Kala. Of course, the construction of the citadel and the construction of the Dag-Bara defensive wall, which closes the Derbent passage, date back to the sixth century. But archaeological research extended the age of the settlement back centuries. It turns out that a fortified settlement existed as far back as the eighth century BC. The stratigraphy of cultural layers indicates that it went through a difficult history. Ash alternations indicate that graying has experienced many fires. But the place on the top of the hill, on which the Naryn-Kala fortress now stands, has never been empty. Control over the passage between the Caspian and the Caucasus has always been important in military and trade relations. The settlement grew and developed steadily until the Sassanian invasion.
Open-air museum
In 1989, the State Historical and Architectural Reserve was established. It includes the old districts of the city of Derbent and museum complex"Citadel Naryn-Kala". The protected area covers 2,044 hectares. On such a vast territory there are about two hundred and fifty monuments of culture and history. These are public and residential buildings, Christian and Muslim temples, archaeological artifacts recovered by excavations. But not only the citadel is interesting for tourists. Worth going to Old city... Derbent, whose name is translated from Persian as "Locked Gate", has always been inextricably linked with its fortress. In 2003, the UNESCO Committee included in the list world heritage mankind, this entire historical and architectural complex. And in 2013, according to the results of a vote held among the citizens of Russia, it took the fifteenth place among the most famous and iconic sights of our country.
Naryn-Kala: excursion
What should a tourist who has independently visited the citadel need to see? A fragment of the khan's palace of the eighteenth century is open for viewing. It will also be interesting to take a look at the baths. This basement building is divided internally into two large halls. They are adjoined by several small rooms with a vaulted roof. The underground prison-zindan is also worth a visit. This structure, eleven meters deep, is shaped like a jug. The sloping walls did not give the prisoners any opportunity to climb up. The most beautiful of all the gates of the fortress are Orta-kaly in the southern wall. You should also familiarize yourself with the citadel's water supply system. Preserved stone and ceramic pipes. And in Derbent itself, residents still take water from the Khaibulakh and Dgiarchi-bulakh fountains, which is supplied from mountain springs along an old aqueduct. And of course, you cannot leave the citadel without visiting the Juma Mosque and the old Christian temple.
Even the Chinese, whose ancestors built the Great Chinese wall, look at the Derbent citadel "Naryn-Kala" with awe. No joke - the age of its walls has exceeded 2 thousand years! Recent archaeological research suggests that the age may be even greater. For a long time, the fortress was an outpost that defended a section of the Great Silk Road. It now serves as a peaceful museum and venue for colorful festivals.
To say that Naryn-Kala is impressive is to say nothing. She is great. The fortress hovers over Derbent and is its dominant high-rise. And what a view from the fortress walls! This is not even a bird's-eye view, but a panorama from the window of an airliner approaching landing. Many one-story houses fill the entire visible space up to the Caspian Sea. The natural border of the city is the sea coast. In the 5th century, an additional protective wall was erected from the fortress, extending into the mountains, 42 km long! At that time, these were cyclopean scales.
A walk through the territory of the fortress allows you to make many interesting discoveries. For example, there is an underground reservoir for storing water supplies. Perhaps in the future it will accommodate tasting room... How else? Indeed, in Derbent they say: “The first of the Seven Wonders of the World is Derbent cognac. The rest of the miracles are its consequences. " After the tasting, it will be possible to view the exposition Museum of the History of Viticulture and Winemaking.
Wine has been produced here since the time of Peter I. According to legend, he tasted local wines and was not satisfied. The reason is simple - there was no winemaking culture in these parts at that time. The Emperor ordered to send Astrakhan specialists to Derbent, and a few years later he was sent an experimental batch of new wines. Peter was pleased with them. By the way, the Russian tsar was in the fortress in August, in the midst of a scorching heat. He ordered to cut himself and make a wig out of his hair. Subsequently, it was used in the manufacture of a wax figure of the emperor.
No fortress is complete without a prison. Naryn-Kala is no exception. The prison is a stone bag with a narrow opening-neck. Claustrophobes can only die from the thought of being in this place. The underground room has an area of about 20 square meters and is located at a depth of 9 meters. In section, the prison resembles a jug with a narrow neck and lid. In particular, state criminals were imprisoned. History claims that no one has ever returned from here alive. They say that the President of Dagestan Ramazan Abdulatipov once visited the fortress with a guided tour. The director of the historical reserve shared the idea of making a museum out of the prison. “There is no need to museumize,” the president joked. "We will use it for its intended purpose - to jail officials who do not follow my instructions."
There is also a secret in "Naryn-Kala". In 960, at a depth of 10 meters, someone built an underground room in the form of a cross, strictly oriented to the cardinal points. The size of the room is 13x15 meters. Nobody can understand its purpose. Perhaps it was a reservoir. But why give it such an unusual shape? Archaeologists have a version that initially the room was on the surface and was a Christian temple. Subsequently, it was abandoned and gradually plunged into cultural layers.
The East is unthinkable without a bath. This is amazing because everyone eastern countries are, as a rule, on dry or completely waterless lands. However, bathing procedures, unlike full-flowing Europe, have been held in high esteem here since ancient times. The Khan bathhouse was located in the fortress. It is easily identifiable by its white domes that appear to lie directly on the ground. In fact, they are vaults of large rooms, which are arranged right in the ground. By the way, there is a working bathhouse in Derbent, which was opened back in the 17th century!
Ceramic pipes were laid under the floor of the Khan bathhouse, through which steam circulated. It was obtained by boiling water in an oven. So, warm floors are an invention of bygone centuries, and not the delights of modern European-style renovation. The rooms were illuminated through holes in the domes. Baths consisted of two sections - cold, where they changed clothes, and hot, where they washed. In the East, baths were used not only for hygiene and treatment, but, above all, for communication. It should be noted, and now this tradition is often followed in the most different countries peace (remember "The Irony of Fate or Enjoy Your Bath"). During the absence of telephones and social networks, the baths were a real outlet. Especially for women. When women swam, men were even forbidden to look in the direction of the bathhouse. Well, when the wives of the khan himself washed themselves, an immodest look could cost an eye.
There is a legend that is associated with the cave from the outside of the fortress wall. According to legend, there were many beautiful women of different nationalities in the khan's harem. Among them were not only Georgians. Khan sent a detachment to Georgia, which brought 40 girls from there. However, at this time the fortress was besieged by the enemy, and the girls had to be hidden in a cave. The entrance was walled up with stones. The detachment entered the battle and died in full force. Except for the soldiers of the detachment, no one knew about the girls locked in the cave. Needless to say, how this tragedy ended.
"Naryn-Kala" was so famous in ancient times that the Bible and the Koran mention it. In 1858, Alexander Dumas Sr. visited the fortress. He wanted to get his own impression in order to write about her. However, Dumas read what Alexander Bestuzhev-Marlinsky wrote about the citadel, and admitted that he was not able to surpass him. You should definitely see Naryn-Kala with your own eyes. This is the only way to understand why the citadel has stood the test of time.
Derbent is part of the Tea Express train cruise. The first such cruise took place in April, the second in June. Now the program of the next railway voyage is being formed. The author thanks Tourism Committee of Ingushetia for an invitation to take part in a press tour on the Tea Express train
Where do you think this fortress is? In which country?
And this is Russia. Let me tell you more about it ...
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The most interesting, truly unique and unlike any known surviving system of city fortifications, of course, is the fortress complex of Derbent itself. The main part of the fortification system is the Naryn-Kala citadel (one of the versions of the translation of this name into Russian is “The Sun Fortress”), built on a high spur of the Dzhalgan ridge in the 6th century. Powerful three-meter-thick walls, bounding an area of 4.5 hectares, are composed of two rows of well-worked stone blocks filled with torn stone and lime mortar. The parallel walls of the city, the northern one of an earlier construction, and the southern one, erected later, have the same structure. Both walls have numerous towers. Once these walls extended far out to sea, preventing the city from going around in shallow waters and creating a comfortable and well-defended harbor.
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An interesting monument, an expressive evidence of the antiquity of the city, is located in the northwestern part of the Naryn-Kala citadel. This underground structure, cruciform in plan and covered with cross vaults, was considered for a long time a reservoir carved into the rock. However, a careful archaeological study allowed the researchers to establish that in front of them is a cross-domed Christian temple, built on the ground in the 5th century, and then buried by powerful millennial cultural layers. According to historians, Derbent until the middle of the 6th century. was the Christian center of the Caucasus.
There are several gates in the southern and northern city walls, of which the most interesting and most architecturally elaborated are the gates of the southern wall - Orta-kala (Middle Gate). Over the centuries, the walls, towers and gates have been repaired several times. The architectural details in the processing of the tops of the walls and towers and gate openings reflect different periods in the development of architecture and the art of building.
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An important place among the sights of the city is occupied by facilities for the storage and use of water, which was almost of primary importance for any fortress city. The water coming from the springs on the slope of Mount Dzhalgan, through the numerous stone and ceramic water conduits discovered during excavations, was directed to several underground reservoirs, including an old Christian temple adapted for this purpose. Several ancient fountains have also survived in Derbent, from which residents take water to this day, in particular - Khaibulakh (Khan's spring), Dgiarchi-bulakh (Messenger's source) and others.
The old baths preserved in the city are also interesting. One of them is in the central elevated part of the citadel. This is an underground structure with a vaulted dome structure of the 17th century, with several rooms for cold and hot compartments and undressing, with tanks for cold and hot water.
A beautiful view of the city opens up from the height of the citadel. Among the flat roofs, as if cut through by cracks of crooked streets, there are the domes of mosques, of which there are quite a lot in the city. They are reminiscent of the times of Arab rule. The largest, most beautiful and oldest of the mosques is Juma (VIII century).
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From the citadel, you can also clearly see the vast ancient Derbent cemeteries with numerous stone steles and sarcophagi of the 5th-9th centuries, marking the burial places of many brave defenders of the fortress, who died at different times.
In the southwestern corner of the fortress wall of the citadel there is a rectangular opening leading to the corner tower, through which there was once an entrance to the Mountain Wall (Dag-bars), which began just from this tower. Currently, only small sections of this wall have survived, but their study showed that it was a grandiose structure 3 meters thick and 10 meters high, with numerous fortified forts, half-forts and rectangular towers. This powerful line of defense, meandering through the continuous mountainous terrain, went deep into the Caucasus for more than 40 kilometers.
Photo 6. 
Derbent fortifications are made of large blocks of local shell rock. Two rows of stone slabs form the outer facing of the wall, the space between which is filled with a backfill on lime mortar. The outer cladding blocks fit very well together and are folded without mortar. This gives them not only elegance and monumentality, but also affects the mind of the beholder with its inviolability and inaccessibility. For a strong connection of the facing blocks with the body of the wall in the masonry, plates are alternated, laid with a spoon (wide wall outward) and poking (outward with a narrow side - butt), the inner plane of which is left untreated, while the outer surface is well hewn. The size of the blocks is quite standard and averages up to 1 meter in length, 0.7-0.8 m in width and 0.25-0.3 m in thickness and does not correspond in any way to the somewhat exaggerated reports of some Arab authors.
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So, according to Yakubi, “... it (ie the wall) was built from square hewn stones. One of these stones will not be lifted by 50 people. These stones are stacked one on top of the other and sewn to each other with iron bolts. " Other Arab authors, including such authoritative ones as al-Istakhri, Masudi, al-Garnati, Ibn al-Fakih, Abdul-Abbas Tuz and others, also report on the fastening of wall stones with the help of lead, iron brackets and iron bolts. Probably, here we are talking about the construction of fortifications without binding mortars, which was widespread in those days, about which al-Sabi reports in detail. Two recesses were made in the stone, into which metal rods were inserted and filled with lead. Such a stone block was installed on another, in which the hollowed out recesses were also filled with molten lead. The stone blocks fastened in this way constituted a solid structure. The thickness of the walls of the fortifications ranges from 2.3 to 3.8 m, although some authors report a significant thickness of the city walls. In Yakubi, for example, we read: "... The width of the wall ... is such that 20 horsemen (in a row) will ride along it without crowding." Adam Olearius, talking about the Derbent walls, wrote that "... they could be ridden by a cart." Several Arab authors report walls 300 cubits wide. However, this figure follows, according to academician V.V. Barthold is more likely to be attributed to the gap between the two city walls than to their width.
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The preserved height of the walls reaches 10-12 meters, and in some places - 15-18 meters. The fortifications have been rebuilt and restored many times. Experts distinguish up to ten sharply different types of their masonry, belonging to different periods and associated with different construction schools. The surviving ancient masonry represents huge non-standard blocks hewn to each other on the spot. Masonry of later periods is distinguished by a more strict geometry of blocks, standard row heights, horizontal seams, dimensions and processing of blocks. Architectural details, carved inserts, etc. appear. In the later masonry, numerous attempts to imitate the most ancient masonry are also noticed.
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In numerous written sources the city is mentioned under various names, sometimes the name of the area is identified with the name of the city. On the maps of Claudius Ptolemy (II century BC), the city of Gelda (Jelda) is marked in this area. Byzantine sources call it "fortification Tzor" (Tzur, Tzur), Albanian gates, Choga gates, Choga principality, the great city of Choga, Syrian - Caspian gates, Toraye gates, Arab - Bab el-Abwab (main gates, gate gates), Bab el-Hadid (iron gates), Bab Alban (Albanian gates), Sed Alban (Albanian walls), and sometimes just al-Bab (gates). Turkish authors call Temir kapis or Temir kapy (iron gates); Georgian - Dzgvis kari ( sea gate), Daruband; Armenian - Jora, Jora's gate, Pahak (guard) Jora, Pakhak walls, Chora border fortress, Huns' gates, Zuar gates, Khonsky gates, Khonsky fortress; Russians - Iron Gates, Derben.
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In historical chronicles and folklore of local peoples, the city is mentioned under the name Chulli (darg.), Churul (lacquer). In addition, in some sources, the city is named as-Sul (wall), Tamur-kagalga, the city of the Chorsky passage, the Great Stronghold, Jol, Sed Yajuj-Majuj, the Chora fortress, the city at the Chora gates, Northern Gates, Derbent gates, etc. ...
The modern name of the city "Derbent" (Darband) appears in written sources since the 7th century, and means, translated from Persian, "Locked Gate", "Locked Gate".
The beautiful mountainous country of Dagestan is praised by many poets, writers and artists. Its unforgettable landscapes, peculiar way of life, wonderful carpets, jewelry, ceramics and other products of its masters, who speak dozens of different languages, have always been perceived with admiration and surprise by everyone who at least got to know this country a little.
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Undoubtedly, the city of Derbent, the most ancient city in Dagestan and the whole of Russia, makes a very strong impression on every traveler. He is much older in age than our country itself, he is older " eternal city"Rome and already existed in the world, when on geographical maps and there was no trace of modern states. Derbent is 5000 years old.
“The city is located on west coast The Caspian Sea, where the Caucasus mountains come close to the coast, leaving only a narrow strip of coastal plain about three kilometers wide. Here in ancient times the famous Caspian route ran - the only convenient road from the steppes of South-Eastern Europe to the Middle East. Along this path, in one of its most strategically and geographically convenient places, the first settlement arose on the site of present-day Derbent ”.
It was in this place that the rich and flourishing agricultural peoples of the Near and Middle East “fenced off” with powerful fortifications from the devastating raids of nomadic tribes from the steppes of Southeastern Europe.
The idea of blocking a large piece of land from the sea to high mountains it would seem fantastic if this wall had not stood in front of us with our own eyes. At the same time, the idea of making two such walls, arranging a transverse “city-corridor” between them, is no less original, and it has been implemented. Finally, the mountain wall, extending from the fortress far to the west in Caucasus mountains, although it cannot be considered an exceptional invention, it is quite comparable in value to the Great Wall of China, albeit of a shorter length and, unfortunately, worse preserved.
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At different times, numerous peoples gave the city different names (there are more than twenty in total), but they are all associated with the word "gate". The name "Derbent" is Persian, dating back to the 6th century AD. NS. and literally means "Gate Knot" or "Gate Lock". The Russians called this city "Derben" or "Iron Gates".
Detailed description amazing city left many admiring observers of different centuries, including the exiled Decembrist writer A.A. Bestuzhev-Marlinsky. The city reminded him of "a huge boa constrictor, which, under the scales of houses, stretched out from the mountain in the sun and raised its scalloped head by the Naryn fortress, and plays with its tail in the Caspian Sea."
The strongest masonry of the fortress walls and towers, which has withstood more than one assault over the millennia, has been well preserved, with few exceptions, to this day, which gives today's traveler a unique opportunity to mentally talk with contemporaries of long-disappeared tribes and peoples.
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Spring in the fortress
Based on reliable sources and research of the ancient fortifications of Derbent that have survived to this day, it was concluded that the city was founded in the 6th century AD. NS. Persian kings of the Sassanid dynasty, and the "father of the city" was considered the famous king Khosrov I Anushirvan, who for the first time fenced off in this place with powerful walls from the attacks of the Khazars from the north. Thus, it was assumed that the age of the city is quite a respectable number - almost 1500 years.
But relatively recently, in 1971, archaeological excavations that began in Derbent have yielded truly sensational results, indicating that these places have seen much more ancient times.
Excavations have revealed an ancient settlement that arose at the turn of the IV-III millennia BC, that is, five thousand years ago! On the territory of the present citadel, the remains of buildings, numerous objects of labor and everyday life, agricultural tools and granaries were found, indicating the existence of one of the oldest agricultural farms here, characteristic of the then Near and Middle East and Southeast Europe. Found as a result archaeological site ancient fortifications with traces of fires and destruction, as well as bronze tips of Scythian arrows, confirm that when the Scythians in the VIII-VII centuries. BC NS. made their trip to the Middle East, they already had to storm the well-fortified fortress of Derbent. Excavations have discovered that appeared here at the turn of the VIII-VII centuries. BC NS. a powerful fortress with walls made of large rubble stone, which existed with restructuring and repairs until the arrival of the Sassanids here. Citadel Naryn-Kala VI century AD NS. was built on the remains of ancient masonry.
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In the III-I centuries BC. NS. on the territory of present-day Azerbaijan and southern Dagestan, the state of Caucasian Albania arose, which then included Derbent. The I-III centuries AD were the heyday of Derbent, as evidenced by the large number of imported products and ornaments from Syria, India and Egypt found in the burial grounds of that time. Well-processed carved stone, clay mortar, and alabaster were used in the construction. The appearance of square fortress towers testified to the further development of the art of fortification.
In the middle of the III century. n. NS. Derbent was captured by the Persian king Shapur I, who "wrought destruction and conflagration." However, the city finally fell under the rule of the Persians only in the 4th century. n. e., and a new, most important stage in the construction of the most powerful fortifications began under Khosrov I Anushirvan (531-579).
“The construction of the Derbent complex was carried out in stages: first the citadel and the northern wall of the city, then the southern wall, and later - the Mountain wall (Dag-Bary). In the 6th century, the first transverse wall was also erected, separating the inhabited part of Derbent near the citadel from the uninhabited coastal wall (two other transverse walls appeared in the 10th-18th centuries) ”. The intensive construction of fortifications of Derbent took place in an atmosphere of constant instability caused by the appearance at the end of the 4th century. n. NS. "Kingdom of the Huns", and then the Khazar Kaganate.
Photo 15. 
In the 6th-7th centuries, Derbent turns into a developed medieval city, which, in addition to its military and defensive significance, is high level socio-economic development.
The warlike tribes of the Arabs, who rallied thanks to Islam, created a powerful united state - the Arab Caliphate, which eventually defeated the Persian Sassanid state. The Arabs immediately began the struggle for the capture of Derbent and at the beginning of the VIII century. finally won it back from the Khazars. The famous Arab commander Maslam bin Abd-Al-Melik, the closest relative of the Arab caliphs, was named by historians the "second father" of Derbent for his fruitful construction activities
Photo 16. 
By the way, I already told you about
Derbent fortress Naryn-Kala was built about one and a half thousand years ago. The exact date of its creation is unknown, but, according to some sources, it was built during the time of Alexander the Great, and with his direct participation.
Naryn-Kala translated from Persian means "Locked Gate". The fortress was built during the existence of the Sassanian state. But the Arabs managed to win this war and they were already completing the construction of the Naryn-Kala fortress.
The Derbent fortress has preserved a variety of architectural styles from different times, since the fortress was actively used in various confrontations, and, accordingly, its reconstruction or rebuilding was carried out in accordance with the trends of modern times.
The fortress is located on a hill over 300 meters high with rocky sides in the northeastern section, which made it a more reliable defense. The citadel occupies an impressive area - more than 4 hectares. The height of the walls is up to 20 meters, and the thickness is up to 3.5. To them are attached tower-like ledges and two large towers, the longitudinal section of which is a square. In total, there are 73 towers on the fortress, which were placed along the entire perimeter of the walls.
The fortress and most of the defensive buildings were made of stones of different breeds, thanks to which Naryn-Kala has come down to us in very good condition. Its purpose was also administrative - there was an underground prison, a court, and an office.
An interesting engineering solution of the fortress was two water reservoirs, which made it possible to preserve the most important reserves of liquid for a long time, which, in turn, made the fortress much more resilient in defense. Water from the spring was supplied to the reservoirs of the fortress with the help of metal and ceramic pipes, and it was possible to conquer the fortress several times only because one of the attackers guessed to add poison to the source, depriving the defenders of water.
Another of the economic structures that ensured the improved vitality of the fortress, one can note the baths, where there was cold and hot water, so that life here was even comfortable, and not only relatively safe.
Many interesting household items from different eras have been preserved in the Naryn-Kala fortress - ceramics, tools, jewelry, even some jewelry stored in the museum of the fortress, which works there, in the citadel. Active life on this site began in the Bronze Age, and in the Middle Ages Derbent was one of the key centers for the production of valuable madder dye and opium, which was even reflected in its old coat of arms. In those days, it was a completely legal occupation, which brought huge profits to the city. Russia also received the Derbent fortress Naryn-Kala in possession in the 19th century.
The Derbent fortress Naryn-Kala was part of a system consisting of city walls, citadels, sea walls and mountain walls. Now this system, like most of the various architectural and landscape objects of Derbent and its surroundings, is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List and is under state protection, and some parts of the fortress are being reconstructed.
Derbent (from Pers. دربند Darband - "Closed (connected) gates", Azerb. Dərbənd, Lezg. Kvevar, Avar. Derbend, Gor. Heb. Derbend, tab. - Shagyur, Tsur, Tsalli, Darg. Chulli (kite .), Chyali (obstetric) - "fence, wall", Rut. Derbend, Laksk. Darbant, Churul - "stone") - a city in Dagestan on a narrow passage between the Caspian Sea and the foothills of the Caucasus.
Derbent is considered one of the oldest living cities in the world. The first settlements appeared here in the Early Bronze Age - at the end of the 4th millennium BC. NS. The first mention of the Caspian Gate - the most ancient name for Derbent - dates back to the 6th century. BC e., it is cited by the famous ancient Greek geographer Hecateus of Miletus.
The caravans of the Great Silk Road went through Derbent, and at the same time the city was an important and convenient port. Its military significance can hardly be overestimated: from here the campaigns of the conquerors rushed both to the north (Mongols, Seljuk Turks) and to the south (from the Scythians and Khazars to the expeditionary corps of the Russian Empire).
The modern city was founded in 438 AD. NS. as a Persian fortress, consisting of a citadel (Naryn-kala) located on a hill and two stone walls extending from it to the sea, which blocked a narrow (3 km) passage between the sea and the Caucasus mountains and fenced off the territory of the city from the north and south.
Since 2003, the citadel "Naryn-Kala", the Old Town and the fortifications of Derbent have been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
While driving to Derbent, we met another attraction of Dagestan.
Pushkin-Tau (Izbergtau) is a mountain located in the Republic of Dagestan, in the vicinity of the city of Izberbash.
It is located at an altitude of 220 meters above sea level.
Pushkin-Tau is a combination of many rocks that go over each other, and only from one specific place is the profile of the great poet A.S. Pushkin clearly visible.
The face on Mount Pushkin-Tau has been known since ancient times and served as a reference point for ships sailing from the north. And in the last century, people were surprised to notice that he looks like Pushkin. And the mountain became widely known. In 1978, according to the decree of the Council of Ministers of the Autonomous Republic, the rock was recognized as a natural monument of regional significance.
There are many legends about the occurrence of this "miracle" in Dagestan, but the most widespread is that when Pushkin was shot by Dantes, an earthquake occurred in Dagestan and the broken part of the rock created Pushkin's profile. This remained a legend, since there was no evidence of an earthquake at that time.
We made a short stop to watch how a gate is made in one of the villages of Dagestan 
Whole generations have been making gates. Agree, very high quality work. 
An hour later, we reached our destination. The majestic fortress Naryn-Kala, which I dreamed of visiting ..
Before her, both time and people were powerless. Like many centuries ago, Naryn-Kala stands on a high hill and guards the ancient city. The height of its walls reaches 30 meters. The powerful fortress towers rise even higher. The walls and towers of the fortress are made of rectangular blocks carefully fitted to each other, giving Naryn-Kala a formidable and ceremonial appearance at the same time. 
Bullet marks are visible on the walls. 
As in a place where there is a landmark, you can buy various souvenirs. The prices, by the way, are quite inexpensive. This album with black and white photographs of Derbent costs only 100 rubles. 
So we came to the entrance.
Naryn-Kala is an ancient, pre-Arab fortress in the mountainous part of Derbent, connected to the Caspian Sea by double walls designed to block the so-called. Caspian gate to the Persian state.
The irregularly shaped fortress covers an area of 4.5 hectares. Its walls (approximately 180 meters wide and 280 meters long) are fortified with small towers (at a distance of 20-30 meters from each other). In the south-western corner of the fortress there is a large square tower, which serves as a link between the fortress and the defensive wall. Additional protection from three sides is provided by the steep slopes of the mountain.
Baths, water reservoirs and ruined buildings, in which one can assume deep antiquity, have been preserved inside the fortress. These include a cross-domed church of the 5th century, which was later rebuilt into a temple of fire worshipers and a mosque. 
Detailed diagram of the citadel. You won't be able to get lost here :) 
As I said above, the prices for tourists are very reasonable to look at this beautiful ancient monument... By the way, there was a wonderful guide with us :) 
The first thing that rushes at the entrance to the fortress is a spring with clean water... The autonomous water supply system of the Naryn-Kala citadel deserves special attention. It represents huge stone reservoirs, into which water from mountain springs entered through underground channels. Thanks to such a successful technical solution, the garrison and residents impregnable fortress could withstand a long siege without any problems. 
Tombstones 
"Secret Gate". Among the people, these gates were also called the "Gate of Shame", since the rulers of the city, at the moment of danger for themselves, left through these gates, leaving the defenders alone against the enemy. The gate is flanked from the outside by two rectangular projections, extending up to 8 meters, reinforced with inclined retaining walls, which form a narrow passage up to three meters when approaching the gate. 
Khan's bath. An architectural monument, presumably built in the 16th-17th centuries, the khan's bathhouse is located in the northwestern part of the Naryn-kala fortress in Derbent. The monument is a one-story semi-underground structure located on the relief. The only eastern facade of the bathhouse, not hidden by soil, faces the khan's palace. There is a legend, when women swam in the bathhouse and a man at least once looked in the direction of the bathhouse, they gouged out one eye, if a woman looked towards the bathhouse when the men were swimming, both eyes were gouged out. 
The walls of Naryn-Kala go not only towards the sea but also 40 km towards the mountains to the Tabasaran region. 
At the northern wall of the citadel, behind the khan's palace, there is a structure called "Zindan" (underground prison). Legends and traditions tell about the horrors of this gloomy building, nicknamed in the city "Gedyan gyalmyaz" ("he who enters will not return"). Experts believe that this is one of the ancient underground reservoirs, later adapted as a prison. 
Rectangular reservoir. Type of architectural structure became extremely widespread in the hot arid regions of the country. 
Several ancient stone anchors with holes for chains or ropes dumped in the courtyard of the Naryn-Kala fortress. They were found in the sea near Derbent. Scientists date them to the first millennium BC. Most likely, the anchors belonged to Median or ancient Persian ships. 
These are the "defensive" windows in the fortress, through which the city is clearly visible. 
An Arab historian of the 10th century described that two columns and a sculpture of a lion, a figure of a man with a fox between his legs and two stones depicting lionesses were installed above the gate. The stone lions and part of one of the columns have survived, so the gate as a whole looks the same as it did twelve centuries ago. Near one of the towers of the northern wall there is a mysterious passage "Doomsday Gate". In the 10th century it was founded from the side of the city, so a small room was formed, fenced from the outside and decorated with carved pillars. In 2004, archaeologists found that more than a thousand years ago, this place was considered a gateway to the other world. 
A visit to the Museum "Ancient Derbent" impressed with the number of exhibits, so there will also be a separate post about it :)
Text materials from the guide to the Naryn-Kala fortress.
All visited in three days unique places included in the list of 100 wonders North Caucasus, voting has just begun
on the website www.100skfo.ru where the 7 most interesting wonders according to internet users.
You can also come in and vote.
Organizers of the blog tour: Association of Journalists of the North Caucasus and OJSC "Resorts of the North Caucasus" with the support of the office of the plenipotentiary representative of the President of the Russian Federation in the North Caucasus Federal District
Partners:
Megaphone
Anji-Arena Group of Companies
Ministry of Press and Information of the Republic of Dagestan
Tourism Committee of the Republic of Dagestan
Center for Contemporary Caucasian Politics "Caucasus"
Media Association of the North Caucasus Federal District
