San Giulio is an island of silence and dragons. Lake Orta

One of the favorite places of Italians, known as "Pearl" of Piedmont, is an Lake Orta (Lago d'Orta)... The lake is located 40 km from Milan and is one of the smallest alpine lakes... Tourism of this picturesque place began to develop relatively recently, however, the beauty of Lake Orta is in no way inferior such famous lakes as the lake Maggiore, Lake Como.

In the very center of the lake spread out San Giulio island, who falls in love with himself at first sight. Here you will find solitude and harmony, peace and quiet. The island is decorated with private villas, towers, churches and a monastery, which is included in the list world heritage UNESCO.

How to get to San Giulio Island:

Upon arrival on the island, you will see a staircase leading to the Romanesque basilica, the main attraction of the island.

San Giulio Island small - 275 meters long and 140 meters wide, so the walk will take no more than an hour. Here just one street enveloping the entire island. The street is called “The Path of Silence” and it is interesting because on the way you will come across plates with different philosophical inscriptions-aphorisms about silence in different languages ​​of the world.

Here you can taste italian huhnya in one of the famous restaurants– Ristorante San Giulio(www.ristorantesangiulio.it), from the terrace of which you can enjoy a gorgeous view of the lake.

San Giulio Island is open for visiting all year round ... V summer time music concerts are often held here.
On the shores of Lake Orta rises holy mountain - Sacro Monte di Orta located in natural park with majestic ancient trees. Getting to Sacromonte will not be difficult, just follow the signs, the whole journey will take about 15 minutes.

At the peak of the mountain are located 20 chapels dedicated to illustrations from the life of St. Francis of Assisi. This chapel is visited by many believers.

Each chapel is accompanied by frescoes reflecting the life of St. Francis and statues made in real proportions.

Climbing the peak of Sacromonte you can enjoy unforgettable panorama, to see the island of San Giulio at a glance.

How to get to Lake Orta:

By car:
Motorway A26 (Genova Voltri / Gravellona TOCE)
Exit Gravellona Toce (direction Omegna - SR 229 km 18)
Borgomanero exit (direction Borgomanero - SR 229 km 16)
Motorway A8 / A26 (Milano Laghi / Gravellona TOCE)
Arona exit (direction Borgomanero 12 km)

July 6th, 2009, 11:00 pm

& nbsp
ORTA SAN GIULIO

I have a conversation with the evening lake
The high fret of the song. In a thin thicket
Tall pines, from the sandy ledges,
From behind the tombs and crypts where the lights are
A lamp and a smoky-gray dusk -
I send songs to him in love.

It does not see me - and it is not necessary.
Like a tired woman, it
Spread out below and looks into the sky ...

- A. Blok, Above the Lake

Orta is a deep excavation left in granite by a past glacier (as evidenced by moraine deposits on south bank lakes) between the ledges Monte orfano and Mottarone.

When, descending from the mountains, for the first time you see the panorama of Horta, it is breathtaking from the wild beauty. Marcus Werner in the book "Terraferma" called this painting "God's watercolor"

In the middle of the lake, opposite the city where the hotel was waiting for us, is the island of San Giulio - a tiny piece of land rich in history.

The first known settlers on the shores of the lake were the Ligurians, then the Gauls, who were replaced by the rule of Rome. The Romans left almost no traces of their dominion on this land: the shores of a wild lake, isolated from the rest of the world, looked unsuitable for Roman colonization - there were no open spaces, usual for the construction of military settlements.

Historical civilization came to the shores of Horta sometime around 390 AD, when two brothers - Julius and Julian(Piedmontese version of Cyril & Methodius) arrived here from Greece on an apostolic mission. It is believed that Julian stayed in Gozzano, where he founded a church dedicated to Saint Lawrence, and Julius ( Julius, Giulio) went deeper into a mountain gorge and managed to get to an island in the middle of a lake - the island that bears his name today. There he built his hundredth church, there, having finished his travels, he died and was buried in the sanctuary he built ...

According to legend, Julius could not find anyone on the shores of the lake who would undertake to transport him to the island - locals they were afraid to death of monstrous dragon-serpents, supposedly inhabiting the waters of the lake (most often they were seen in the bay Bagnera- north of the peninsula, on which the city of Horta San Giulio stands today). That's why Julius took matters into his own hands: he spread his monastic robe on the lake waters and sailed on it to the island. And so it was, my Catholics friends. But there are still people who refuse to believe in miracles!

In the 488th year Victor, Bishop of Novara (the curious will find Novara on the map - south of the lake) began to build a fortified castle on the island, and on the site of the destroyed church built by San Giulio, a new temple. The construction was completed by the next Bishop, who transferred the remains of San Giulio to the basilica, dedicating the temple to the apostles Peter and Paul.

In 575, Lombardy archers arrived on the banks of the Horta. Minolf, Count of Upper Novara, threw out the Bishops from all the territories he occupied, took the island into his possession and settled in the castle built there, further strengthening it in anticipation of the invasion of the Franks. Minolf built towers and small forts at strategic points along the lake's coast and on all roads leading to it (the ruins of these structures can still be seen in Pella, Bukkion and on Mount Mesma). These preparations did not help Minolf very much: he was unable to protect his possessions from the new Lombard king Ajigolf, and in 591, by royal decree, he was beheaded "for treason" (isn't it ancient history Western Europe terribly reminiscent of the new history of some countries in Eastern Europe? The difference is only some 1300 years ...;)))

In 774, Charlemagne expelled the Lombardians and revived the Bishops' hopes for the return of their former property ... but not for long! In 840, Lothario the First, who came from Pavia, asserted his authority over the entire lake region. In 950, Berengario II declared his power to be anti-popular (okay, I'm kidding), but then Otto the First came and everything changed again. In February 962, in Rome, Otto the First was declared Emperor; this was the culmination of the history of San Giulio. It was at this time that the island became the place where the fate of the Empire was decided. Otto sent his son Litolf to the siege of the island fortress, and then he himself arrived to lead the hostilities. It took many months to break the resistance of the defenders of the island. After that, Horta enjoyed a period of blessed peace for a time, during which she became the center of commerce for the whole of Piedmont.

Perhaps one of the readers is wondering: is Calmeyer really so smart that he remembers the dates and names of this whole Italian gang? No, my friends, Kalmeyer doesn't know or remember. He simply fishes out information from books, and then rewrites himself into a magazine so that everyone thinks - how smart he is (as one Russian poetess put it - “very smart”). They always want to show their education!

In the course of the events of the following centuries, after numerous conspiracies and military clashes, the situation changed: now the Bishops were considered the rulers of the Lake Riviera, but local administrative functions were transferred to governors, whose military apparatus could ensure the obedience of the plebs.

In the early 1500s, the Sforza clan imposed heavy taxes on the local population, which caused outbreaks of popular uprisings, bloodily suppressed by the Count of Visconti, and in 1529 the jurisdiction over the region of the lakes was again officially transferred into the hands of the Bishop of Novara, Archibald ... until through two centuries, in 1767, did not become the ruler of Novara Charles emanuel iii Savoy, who declared invalid the rights of the Bishops to rule the Lake Riviera.

During the Napoleonic Wars, the area of ​​the lakes fell under the rule of the French, Charles emanuel iii relinquished power and retired into exile in Sardinia. After the unification of Italy, the entire area was included in Piedmont, and the Bishops were officially deprived of the rights to feudal ownership of the lands of the Lake Riviera - although they retained the rights to conduct a census of property: land and buildings.

But since we need pictures and a plot, then let's go back to the plot and squeeze the pictures boom.

Having dragged our suitcases to the hotel, we went out to the balcony of our room, from where we could see a view of the lake and the island of San Giulio

Orta San Giulio is a very small town, and on the first day we walked around almost all the sights (with the exception of the sacred hill Sacro Monte). This is how the houses overlooking the lake look like:

Town Square Piazza motta from the 15th century it served as the center of political, administrative power and commercial center of the Lake Riviera. From then to the present day, weekly bazaars have been held here. On the square and around it, in the porticoes of old houses, there are a great many tiny shops, cafes, restaurants

There is also a building decorated with the coat of arms of Orta. Palazzo della comunita, in which representatives of the communities of the Lake Riviera met since 1582. The walls of the building are decorated with frescoes depicting the Madonna, Saints Francesco, Giulio and others.

The cafes on the square overlook the nearby island, which shines through between the clipped crowns of horse chestnuts. The island changes colors throughout the day

Boats are tied right outside the cafe. The whole life of the town is inextricably linked with the lake ...

In spite of snowy winters The microclimate of Orta San Giulio allows for the cultivation of subtropical plants and the city is surrounded by greenery. This is a somewhat unusual bindweed, 4 stories high.

By the middle of the day, people - locals and tourists - flock to the square: drink beer, have a snack, chat about this and that and immerse themselves in a sleepy siesta ritual

Further from the center of the street, the streets become so narrow that there is nothing to meddle in on a Ford: you can drive through, but parking or just opening the door and getting out of the car is a problem. But the tiny Italian cars are superbly adapted for medieval town... Pedestrians also know their responsibilities: when a car appears, you need to quickly jump into the nearest entrance - and no one will run over you!

When it gets hot in the afternoon, luxurious coolness reigns in the entrances of old houses.

The statue in the hotel courtyard depicts San Giulio. There are a lot of these images everywhere on Orta. A variant of a personality cult that does not pose the slightest danger to the population ...

The next morning we decided to go to the island - to get acquainted with the basilica and the fortress, for which so much blood was shed at one time. We arrived at the berths on Piazza motta too early: there was still half an hour before the first boat, and there was nothing left for me to do but to take pictures of the "captains" of the fleet of lake boats flaunting their naval uniforms. Noticing that they were being photographed, the captains proudly posed in front of the lens (Italians are made for such dramatic moments! ...;)

Finally the first boat appeared. Apart from Tonya and me, none of the tourists had yet been: the boat was carrying restaurant servants and workers to the island who were engaged in the repair of two buildings.

The white chapel and tower are clearly visible from the lake, adhering to the very edge. sheer cliff towering on the west bank. This is a convent - Sanctuary Of Madonna Del Sasso. In the evenings, the façade facing the lake is illuminated by spotlights and seems to hang over the dark hole of the lake. Very impressive. I tried to shoot at night from the city, but nothing but a couple of bright spots came out ... This is how it looks during the day, from the island.

It turned out to be a great idea to come to San Giulio before the groups of tourists arrived. The basilica was still closed, but the deserted island was left for the two of us, and we set off along the only street that encircled the island.

Bell tower of the Basilica of San Giulio:

Entrance to the church library:

Episcopal Palace:

Former monastery, later abbey building:

The street that runs around the island:

I don't know how official name this street, but judging by the signs hanging on the houses, the monks called it Path of silence:

Silence is one of the rarest and therefore precious goods in our hectic world, and walking along the deserted street of the island, you can fully appreciate the content of the monastic tablets:

"Listen to the silence"
"Accept yourself as you are, grow, mature"
"In silence you will get everything you need"
"Listen to the water, the wind and your own steps"
"Silence itself is Peace"

What impressed me most was the carved pulpit on which a griffin, a lion with wings, San Giulio and Saint Guillelmo da Volpiano are carved. The latter was born in the island fortress during the siege by Emperor Otto in June 962; later he was destined to become one of the early adepts of St. Benedict; then he left for France, served as abbot in Dijon, built several churches and radically rebuilt the abbey Saint-Germain-des-Prés... This is how the sculptor depicted Saint Guiglielmo in the Basilica of San Giuliano:

I was going to take pictures of the temple frescoes I liked, but the basilica gradually filled with people, and photographing there is officially prohibited, and we went out into the air.

The day was quiet. In the clear lake water, right near the shore, flocks of rather large trout were walking.

Narrow passages led from the street to the lake, in some of them there were boats, in other openings the city could be seen, but the inhabitants were still nowhere to be seen

We went through one such gateway to the shore, but there we did not find anyone but ducks.

The only person we met was a statue of an unknown gentleman pointing his finger at some apparently very important book. Tonya asked: "Who do you think it could be?" Charles emanuel iii Savoy. My wife looked at me doubtfully and said: "Surely, as always, you are lying ..." This woman cannot be deceived! ...

In one of the houses, I was impressed by the knockers made in the form of bronze female hands ...

... in another house I liked the majolica tiles embedded in the wall, depicting a horse carriage of the 19th century

Having gone around the whole island twice, we sat down to wait for the boat. Fish played in the water, and delightfully nimble lizards scurried about the stones of the embankment. From the only restaurant, a cook in a tall white cap came ashore and squatted down, staring at the trout at the pier - probably thinking: “yes, yes, and certainly with garlic sauce ...” On the pier, under the walls of the fortress, the teacher was telling the class noisy Italian children about the history of the island, and I looked at her gestures; no one knows how to use their hands to express thoughts better than Italians. Unique art!

Finally a boat came up and we headed back to town

Well. I should also tell about the contents of the twenty chapels on the sacred hill. Sacro Monte(the Catholic establishment is the true masters of rare applied art: transmission of auspicious legends with the help of a theater of popularly painted dolls!):

... but the hand of the fighters is tired of stabbing, and besides, it's time to talk about something else.

Long ago, even before the trip, I wondered: how do Italians differ from other peoples of central and western Europe?

The answer came unexpectedly (at least one of the possible answers). In Pasignano, in the Castle where we settled, there lived an elderly married couple of professors from Chicago, specialists in physical chemistry: a woman named Lee and her husband, whose name is Felix. Both are several years older than Tonya and me, but, to their credit, they are in excellent physical shape. We met and made several joint trips to the surrounding towns. Felix and Lee have consistently come to spend 13 years spring holidays in Pasignano - every year for two months, and always stay at the Castle. Lee - a true midwesterner in god knows what generation. Felix was born in 1932 in Hamburg, grew up in Hitlerite Germany and in 1943, as was expected at that time, became a member of the Hitler Youth. In the spring of 1945, he, along with others, was taken away on an urgent conscription and for some reason sent to Bavaria. There, Felix was given a submachine gun, faustpatrones and assigned to the stable, to guard the army horses, forbidding him to leave his post on pain of the tribunal, after which all communications with the authorities were interrupted. For eight days Felix guarded the horses inseparably. First he ran out of food, then he ran out of horse feed. On the ninth day, a hungry 13-year-old boy decided to go outside to find someone who could tell him what was happening and what to do next. “Everything was so good at the very beginning,” Felix says with a venomous grin, “our people came close to Moscow, everyone was happy that from the trenches you could already see the Moscow suburbs through binoculars, and then suddenly - pffuu! - the war is already going on on German territory. We were deceived. Since then I have understood: you cannot trust any government! "

Upon learning that I was a Jew, Felix asked if I understood that, as a member of the Hitler Youth, he had not committed any crimes. I reassured him that I myself was a member of the Komsomol, and that we are equally responsible for what the two aggressive powers have done, where we were not lucky to be born.

One evening, a couple of professors and I were sitting on the balcony with a bottle of wine, watching the sunset. It must be said that both Felix and Lee speak and read Italian fluently and feel at home in Italy. Felix at some point admitted that he would generally like to be Italian, that this country is much closer to him in spirit than any other. Then I asked him a question: what attracts him to the Italian nation?

- The Italian nation? - he asked, - it's an oxymoron. The Italian nation never existed and still does not exist. Go out onto Rue Pasignano and ask anyone who they think they are. They will answer you: Umbrian, or, for example, a resident of northern Umbria, or, in extreme cases, a resident of Pasignano, but no one will say "Italian." In Rome they will say - Roman, in Venice - Venetian, in Palermo people know that they are Sicilians, not Italians. In this country you will find Calabrians and Abruzzo residents, but you will not find Italians.
- How, - I doubted, - you assert that Italians do not exist as a nation at all?
- Italians have never recognized themselves as a single nation. Unlike the Germans or the French.
- You can't say that by watching them during sports. Fans Squadra azzurra hardly agree with you.
- During sports competitions, artificially inflated mass psychosis manages to drown out the historical memory of residents for a while Italian provinces and make them cheer for the "representing the country" Roman "Lazio" or the "blue team". But then, when the TV is turned off, everything returns to its place.
- But there is a common Italian language?
- There is an official language, and thanks to newspapers and television, it, probably, may someday become a unifying factor, but in the provinces even today the people speak the local dialects. In fact, the reason lies not even in the language, but in the historical memory of each region. The cruel history of the Apennine peninsula is covered in such a thin layer recent history that all the grievances and claims to the neighbors and to Rome are still not forgotten, they still hurt.
- Are you talking about medieval civil strife?
- Yes. But not only about that. In Italy, there has never been a firm, uniting the whole country, power. At different times in its various provinces, Africans, Germans, Austrians, French, Spaniards, Swiss, alien bishops ruled ... Their power was no worse than that of Rome. Or the Vatican authorities. On the contrary, very often the rulers who came from outside the Apennine Peninsula treated the population much better than their nearest neighbors. The Perugians will not forget the violence and abuse suffered by the Romans and the inhabitants of Lombardy. The historical memory of the Tuscan people has a long list of atrocities at the Venetian court. And Sicily generally considers itself a separate state.
- I saw with what enthusiasm Italians sing their national anthem.
- Italians love to sing, what's true is true. From 1861 to 1946, the national anthem was considered the anthem of the Kingdom of Savoy, but after 1946, the current anthem was adopted, which sounds like an opera aria, or rather like a parody of an opera aria.
- How do you explain that the Italian green-white-red tricolor flutters everywhere here?
- Southern emotionality is looking for a way out in artistic expression. In addition, these colors look great in combination with blue, so it should be talked about the love of multi-colored identification.

- What do you think, - I asked, - is it a positive or negative factor - the absence of a nation?
- For me - positive. German childhood with Hitler Jugend and Deutschland über alles that's enough for me. I don't need a country that über alles.
“From time to time I have to communicate on the Internet with Russians, for whom the existence of the Russian nation is a painfully important issue,” I said. “It is a nation that realizes itself as a religion-power. For the sake of this "Russian idea" they are ready to give up even democratic freedoms.
- Send them to Bavaria to guard the horses and tell them that the Fuehrer will take care of the feed ...

To be continued

Orta San Giulio is a tiny village located on the shores of Lake Orta. A place that will be held by the bulk of foreign tourists coming to Italy. Orta san Giulio is more for its own people, for Italians. And also for travelers who have already left behind such blocks of Italy as Rome, Florence, Pisa, etc.

Cozy and deserted medieval streets, shops with traditional Piedmontese gifts, family restaurants on Piazza Motta. No one is in a hurry here. The air is saturated with measuredness and tranquility.

Be sure to take at least one day in Orta San Giulio when traveling in the north of Piedmont. Read on to find out how best to organize your trip.

Orta San Giulio how to get there

This wonderful corner of Italy is located in the north of the Piedmont region. Nearest Big City to Orta San Giulio - Milan, which is an excellent starting point when traveling through the lakes of the region (Orta, Maggiore,).

Every year competition among Russian carriers in the direction Moscow - Milan is gaining momentum. There are five to seven direct flights here a day.

You can choose the best option for yourself below:

Traditionally, the most low prices for a flight near Victory. However, keep in mind that the flights of this airline fly to Bergamo Airport, which is 50 km away. east of Milan. If we talk about other airlines, then they all fly to Malpensa airport. In relation to Orta-San Giulio, it has the most convenient location, only 40 km.

By public transport

Orta San Giulio is a secluded place, where you will not meet crowds of Chinese and other package tourists. Part of this favorable environment for an independent tourist is facilitated by the difficult-to-reach location of the city in terms of public transport.

To get here from Malpensa, Milan or Bergamo airports, you need to do a very exhausting journey by trains with transfers. The situation is different for everyone, if for some reason you do not have the opportunity to rent a car, then the information below will be very relevant.

The nearest railway station to the city is Orta Miasino. It takes about 30 minutes to walk from it to the historic center of Orta San Giulio.

Directions to Orta Miasino station:

From Milan (Milano Centrale station) - one change in Novara, travel time from 1.45 min. Cost from 9 euros.

From Malpensa airport - the route from the airport to Milano Centrale station is added to the above route. Despite the fact that from Malpensa to Orta San Giulio, you need to make a detour. It will take about 3 hours in time and from 20 euros per person.

From Bergamo airport - here the shortest way lies again through Milan. First we go from Bergamo to Milano Centrale, and then with another change in Novara to Orta San Giulio

Make the exact schedule and route on the official website railways Italy - trenitalia.

With a rented car

The most convenient and easiest way to get to Orta San Giulio is by renting a car upon arrival at Milan airport. In this case, you can save a lot of time and, in certain cases, money (if you are traveling with a company).

From Milano Malpensa airport to the center of Orta San Giulio, it takes only 40 minutes to drive. There is a toll road section along the route, you will have to pay about 7 euros. If you want to save a little, then put a tick in Google maps to exclude "Toll roads" and the navigator will pave the way for free sites. You will not lose much in time, in the region of 15-20 minutes.

Here, in fact, I have nothing to tell you. Everyone can figure out how to get from point A to point B. The only thing worth paying attention to is car rental.

From here, the center of Orta San Giulio (Piazza Motta) is about seven minutes on foot.

Orta San Giulio where to stay

To be honest, we visited the town without spending the night. We walked until the evening, and then left for Stresa. Now I see it as a miscalculation in travel planning. In Orta San Giulio, I wanted to stay longer, stay up late in the evening in a cozy restaurant with a bottle of good wine, and then walk along the deserted evening streets in the yellow light of street lamps.

Would definitely recommend staying here for the night. There are very few accommodation options within walking distance from the historic center, I think the fingers of one hand will be enough. You can see them on the map of Boooking hotels.

I was delighted with the Hotel La Bussola. Incredible view of the lake and mountains from the room. Hopefully next time visiting Orta San Giulio it will be possible to stay here.

Orta San Giulio Map

As I have written more than once in this article, the town is very tiny, In fact, to explore it historical Center can be done in just a couple of hours and it is not necessary to refer to the map.

However, I nevertheless decided to place it here and mark several sights that should be sure to see.

Orta San Giulio attractions

Now, after the necessary general information when planning your trip, it's time to talk about the sights of the city. Orta san Giulio is a very compact village and there is no need to make any detailed plans for the survey here. And sights in this city are a relative concept. The entire historical center is one continuous attraction.

Walk the streets as you please, don't get lost. Look into every narrow passage and corner of the city. Be sure to stumble upon a beautiful viewpoint over the lake or a cozy courtyard.

Below I will share the interesting views and places of Orta San Giulio that we met and orient by their location on the map.

Streets of Orta San Giulio

Right next to the notorious ZTL sign, which prohibits entry into the historic part of the city, there is a very pretty observation deck overlooking the medieval buildings with red tiled roofs, Lake Orta and the island of Isola di San Giulio.

Here you can walk down the stairs into the labyrinth of narrow streets of the city.

Very atmospheric place. The almost complete absence of people makes the medieval district of Orta San Giulio especially attractive.

Naturally, this village does not claim to be a historical or cultural center Europe. There are much more significant cities. But how many do you know of those where thousands of tourists do not roam the streets?

The next point of interest in Orta San Giulio that I would like to pay attention to is a series of narrow pedestrian streets that lead to the coast of the lake. You won't be able to see them on Google maps, but in the mapsme application they are well marked.

Take the time to look into each of these narrow passages.

We were in Orta San Giulio in November. High water in the lake flooded outlets to observation platforms... However, this time of year has its own charm to this place.

Don't miss the vantage point in the city hall of Orta San Giulio. I marked it on the general map. Access here is possible from morning until 7 pm. At other times the gate is closed.

There is a small garden on site. There are benches where you can get stuck even for half a day. The incredible panorama and seclusion of this place allow it.

Piaza Motta Square

The most popular and favorite place among tourists in Orta San Giulio is Piazza Motta. It attracts like a magnet. Without looking at the map, sooner or later you will find yourself here.

Piazza Motta - gastronomic and shopping center tiny town. Here you will find some very decent restaurants and cozy family shops with Piedmont treats.

It is unlikely that you will be able to pass by. Yes, actually, and why? A trip to Piedmont is primarily about excellent quality local products.

Here, on Piazza Motta, is the largest section of the Orta Lake embankment.

The magnificent four Northern Italian lakes (Maggiore, Lugano, Como and Garda) have a younger brother - the lake Horta(Orta)... Less has been written about it, it is not as accessible and not as popular as its brethren. Located in Piedmont to the left of all the others, it is smaller, but no less beautiful. Around the Alps, from which wonderful panoramas open up. We climbed high, it was not difficult to walk down to the lake on foot, but back…. But the view straight from the room was worth it.

The most interesting place the lake, without a doubt, is a small townOrta San Giulio ( Orta San Giulio) located on a peninsula, and a nearby island San giulio (Isola San Giulio) .

The entire peninsula can be walked around the embankment. First, at the entrance, at its narrowest part, you can see an unusual structure, resembling something Turkish in shape, similar to a minaret. This is "Villa Crespi", built in 1897 as a private building by a rich manCristoforoCrespi, and now a luxury 4-star hotel http://www.villacrespi.it/ with a Michelin-starred restaurant.

Further, moving clockwise along the path along the lake, you will come to the historical part of the cityOrta San Giulio . Unwittingly comparing similar coastal lake towns - Stresa on Maggiore, Bellagio on Como, Malcesine on Garda, I still prefer Orte. And this is primarily due to its less touristy character, or rather less glossy compared to the rest. It looks more natural and natural.

From here you can and should swim to the mini-island of San Giulio. Its dimensions are 275 by 140 meters. You can use the services of boats for 4-50 euros per person, or you can sail on a regular motor ship that runs on a schedule for 3-15. Swimming will take no more than 5 minutes.

A narrow circular street allows you to get around the entire island in 20 minutes. For the most part, it is squeezed by the walls of the territories of villas and other buildings, but in some places there are branches leading to the lake. There is one restaurant, one gift shop, one St. Giulio, where he actually rests, and one Benedictine monastery. The monastery is female and active. About 70 nuns in particular are engaged in the restoration of old tapestries. There is a museum at the monastery.

Returning from the island back toHortu worth to climb the mountain Sacre Monti... At the turn of the 16th and 17th centuries in Piedmont and Lombardy, everywhere, mainly on the mountains, special prayer places were erected - groups of chapels, churches and other buildings of religious significance. It was planned that they would replace, from the point of view of pilgrimage, Palestine, which was difficult to access at that time. Nine of these places, and in particular here on the peninsula, are included in the UNESCO lists of protected objects. The chapels are pretty worn out and are not very interesting for an ordinary tourist. But the views from the mountain are wonderful.

To complete the inspection of the peninsula, it is worth going back down to the city and walking along its northern coast. The path mostly runs right along the water's edge. She is extremely picturesque and pleasant. Leaving again at the "Villa Crespi", you will complete the circle and finish your sightseeing tour of the main attractions of Lake Orta.

We drove around the lake by car. Other cities were not impressed. We stayed at Omenier (Omegna) and Pelle ( Pella) .

The first one is completely uninteresting, while the second one can stay if you do not find a suitable hotel near Orta San Giulio. From Pella it is easy to cross to the other side of the lake with the same regular boat.

Outcome: A beautiful pre-Alpine lake, less frequently visited by tourists and therefore more natural and cozy.

If you want to go on a trip to Europe that I organize, see the current offers for joining groups on my website www.dmitrysokolov.ru

Dmitry Sokolov

• Unusual travels to Europe http://www.sokolovcz.ru/
• Our guesthouse in South Moravia http://www.pansionnalednicke.ru/
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Lake d'Orta, also known as Lago d'Orta, is another of the great places Italy is famous for. A small body of water, surrounded by gentle alpine slopes, is located in the province of Piedmont (Piemonte), near the majestic (Lago Maggiore). A quiet, cozy pond is framed by romantic landscapes.

The mountain reservoir was formed in a natural way back in time immemorial, when glaciers descended from high-altitude peaks. A small rift was filled with cold streams and springs gushing out of the ground. For a long time, Saint Julius (San Giulio) was considered the patron saint of the lake. According to numerous legends, San Giulio lived in the vicinity beautiful lake back in the 4th century AD. The modern name was assigned to the lake already in the 16th century.

The great Frenchman Honore de Balzac called this picturesque corner of Italy “a gray pearl in a green box”. Friedrich Nietzsche (German Friedrich Nietzsche) gathered on the shores of a wonderful reservoir with inspiration to create his masterpiece "Thus Spoke Zarathustra." Emerald waves of mountain shafts, smoothly slide down to the blue mirror of lake waters - this is the main and indisputable attraction of d'Ort.

Amazingly fresh air, purified by caps of snow high in the mountains, like an invisible waterfall descending into the valley. Already below, frosty freshness intertwines with the aromas of plants and herbs, then takes on a light watery hue. Breathing in this extraordinary cocktail, you can go straight to the edge of the lake to watch the pairs of graceful swans majestically swimming across the reservoir. Not surprisingly, the English poet Robert Browning referred to d'Ort as the place where "the Alps meet the snowy skies."

Geography and climate

Unlike its grandiose neighbor, Lago d'Orta has modest parameters: area - about 18 km 2, length - about 13 km, bottom depth - up to 140 m. The oval elongated shape of the reservoir is somewhat disturbed by a snake in the southeastern part. Here is one of the most significant settlements valleys - the city of Orta San Giulio.

The unusually mild climate and crystal clear waters are of particular charm. With the first days of spring, warmth comes to the Lago d'Orta valley, warming the air up to +27 +35 0 С. The water temperature rises a little more slowly, the influence of cold springs affects. The water indicator + 27 + 28 0 С will be stable until late autumn.

sights

Rest in the vicinity of Lake D'Orta does not tolerate fuss, small medieval streets covered with cobblestones and old houses subtly remind of the running of time.

Orta San Giulio

The city of Horta San Giulio is very popular. Its architecture contains the entire history of Italian architecture, but the great emphasis fell on the Baroque and Renaissance times. The palazzo and the villas of the Italian nobility are perfectly combined with the azure water and the green of the mountain valley. It is especially pleasant to stroll through the numerous gardens, fragrant with the aromas of tropical as well as native Italian flora.

Historical and architectural monuments - the Palazzo delle Comunita (Palazzo delle Comunita), built near the Piazza Motto (Italian) - give the city a special chic. The light three-story building of the palazzo demonstrates the simple interweaving of the Baroque and the classics. The building looks impressive due to the wide arched openings that adorn its first floor.

Hotel Villa Crespi

Visitors to the city take their breath away when they first see a hotel called Villa Crespi. On the shore of the lake, in the middle of a luxurious green park, an unusual building rises, as if created by the skillful hands of a gin. The famous 19th century silk merchant, Cristoforo Benigno Crespi, was deeply imbued with the love of oriental art. At his behest, a villa was built in a secluded corner of Italy, equipped with a real Arab tower. The bright turquoise dome of the high-rise tower is visible from afar, it is in perfect harmony with oriental motifs in the decoration of the entire mansion.

At one time, the rich rooms of the estate were used to receive royal persons - Margherita von Savoyen and King Umberto I (Umberto I). Currently, Villa Crespi opens its doors exclusively to the most eminent and wealthy guests. Huge park, incredible mountain landscapes, wonderful interiors, furniture and art objects - a privilege for the elite.

Omegna

At the northern source of Lake Orta there is cozy town Omegna. The silence and pastoral of its streets, once a year, is replaced by a riot of colors and the roar of fireworks. The celebration of St. Vitus's Day in August attracts hundreds of tourists to Omenya. The parade of colored lanterns floats on the water surface, accompanied by theatrical performances and cheerful music - a spectacle that truly defies description.

Isola di San Giulio

A small stronghold is the embodiment of a long memory of the deeds of St. Julius. The main attraction is the Basilica of San Giulio, surrounded by austere and majestic buildings: the palace of the bishops and the building of the monastery. All buildings created for the Catholic Church in the Middle Ages are now under the protection of the UNESCO Foundation.

Entertainment and recreation

Warm, incredible clear waters Lago d'Orta promises to travelers great stay... Near cities, the coast is equipped with comfortable sun loungers and umbrellas, you can devote time to swimming and sunbathing.

Is it possible to swim in Lake Orta? Of course yes! You can comfortably swim on the lake from July to August. Also, there are plenty of rental points: motor boats, jet skis and bicycles, diving equipment.

Having spent a lot of energy on the water, tourists will drop by one of the many restaurants. Simple and so amazing varied cuisine, for which Italy is famous - just what the hungry vacationer needs. Crispy pizza, a variety of seafood recipes, pasta, ravioli, aromatic wines. The menu of the coast of Lake D'Orta is ready to satisfy the appetites of any gourmet.

How to get there

Since the lake is located 50 km from Milan, one of the most popular routes to Horta is rail travel... Milanese (Malpensa) is a great starting point. The landing station is Novara and the destination is Orta-Miasino.

In the suburbs of Milan there is another airport - Orio al Serio. From this place it is worth getting to the central railway station Milan - Milan Stazione Centrale. Itinerary Novara - Domodossola (Novara - Domodossola).

In addition to railway communication, the lake can be reached by a rented car. You can find the most profitable option using the service.

There is a regular bus service between D'Orta and Maggiore. Departure from Baveno and Stresa three times a day.

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